will Being Mr cheap work this time?

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ok so I really couldnt be bothered paying alot of $$$ for a run of 0/1, so what I did was I bought alot of oxygen free multi strand 16 gauge wires (20 specifically) off the internet long enough for the length of my car, when it arrives me and my pal are gunna line them up together, snip and strip the ends then twist them, use terminal rings, then twist the whole wires (so it kinda looks like a rope) then use cable ties to neaten it all up so its just a giant cable. now my question is, how much gauge is 10 16 gauge wires? if its good enough then damn i saved myself a helluva lot of cash.
 
If you use one fuse (chosen to protect a 3g wire) and the insulation for one strand is cut by a sharp piece of grounded metal (firewall, under seat...), that one strand will burn until the copper fuses open. This will likely ignite the insulation, carpet and any plastic panels in contact with the wire.

16g wire is ~2600 circular mils. 3g is ~52,000 circular mils.
 
Hmm, What about a circuit breaker, should trip more better, also could use cable dressing?

If you use one fuse (chosen to protect a 3g wire) and the insulation for one strand is cut by a sharp piece of grounded metal (firewall, under seat...), that one strand will burn until the copper fuses open. This will likely ignite the insulation, carpet and any plastic panels in contact with the wire.

16g wire is ~2600 circular mils. 3g is ~52,000 circular mils.
 
You aren't understanding. That single strand will burn because it is still attached to a single LARGE fuse that won't blow under the load a 16awg piece of wire will draw when shorted. But it will still be enough heat to burn.

ohh...

So best thing for me to do is insulate the cables more, hmm I cant seem to remember the name of that kinda netty/strechy fabric thing that is on high powered computer powersupplies...

EDIT:

I'm pretty sure its called cable sleeving, could add two layers of this.
 
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The best thing to do would get the proper size cable for your current draw :)



Techflex. But leave the 16awg for other uses...

agree x 100% do it right the first time, in anyevent, cutting corners just causes 100000x more pain later down road :)

WIRE is not that expencive, just buy a kit,
 
I don't know about suppliers over there, but Knukonceptz is recommended a lot here for a mid-priced wiring kit: http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KLM-AK0

I've used their wire before, it's not the best but it'll do the job safely and securely.

The best I've used is the Kicker Hyperflex kit, but it's about twice the price :) Worth it if you ask me, though...something that can burn your vehicle to the ground if done improperly isn't the place to skimp, IMO.
 
How much current are you going to pull over that "cable" ? A 16AWG (if am right that would be 1,5mm² in those "metric system" countries --> hey thats where they call a quarter pounder a "royal cheese"....) Will aprox. withstand 50-100 amps for a few seconds. So i agree with the already posted opinions. to make sure your car does not go up in smoke you should use more smaller fuses for at least a couple of those small wires. the "main" fuse placed next to the battery is not supposed to protect your amplifiers, it´s supposed to protect the battery and the wires in case of a short. the problem is , that a 40A fuse will not blow while 40A current are flowing over it. The fuses will withstand much more current until they blow, now keeping that in mind you need to consider which goes first, the fuse ore the wire !

Either make sure the wires cannot fail (that means spending money on a very good isolation material/ hose) or use smaller but suffiicent fuses. You would have probably been better of with using 3x 10mm² and a 100A fuse or a 140A curcuit breaker.
 
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