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Old 16th May 2003, 09:45 PM   #11
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also, the ESP crossover is adjustable to any values in that you change out components to make it filter at whatever points you want.

you can find details for the crossover and the equalizer with the links i posted above.
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Old 16th May 2003, 09:51 PM   #12
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to answer another question... the polk 6.5" speakers are going into the existing door panels. I am going to (I plan to anyway, once they come in) remove the tweeter from the center mount and put that in the existing tweeter spot on my A pillars.

I'm not too sure how that is goingto turn out though.

Also, I just bought some bipolar caps to reduce the amount of bass that will reach the 6" drivers once I get the sub in.
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Old 16th May 2003, 09:57 PM   #13
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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"I am not talking about phase issues above 100Hz" well you should be considering them because cars rarely have terrible phase issues with the bass freq. The real trick to good sound in a car if FR and correct phase. FR is easier to get right (EQ) but Phase is all about placement (and if you are using more then 2 speakers). If you constantly have people in the back seat who are listening to music with you then go ahead and keep the rears. I personaly don't have people in the back seat and when I do they are so close to the sub that it doesn't matter if I have rear speakers or not. Also a well setup pair of front speakers will reach the back but I have a feeling that you are not going to be intalling and tunning your speker placement (ie. installing them in kick pannels). While you don't have passangers in your car make sure to move all the sound to the front speakers.

I looked at the site for the crossover but it seems like you have to litteraly unsolder the componants to change the freq. Is this right? If so I would not use it. If you only need to plug in the peice to change the freq make sure that you get all available levels between 50hz-80hz so you can tune you sub to the rest of your system. I see that the crossover requires +/- 15V. Are you going to be making a custom ps for it then? If so remember that voltage in a car system can change drasticly and rapidly. You also should consider making your crossover 24db instead of 12db (or adjastable).

The sound deadening you picked is great for the money. I personaly use elasoflex (a roofing material) that has a smell for a while but works great. Sound deadening will make a world of difference if you do it in the right places and install it correctly.
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Old 16th May 2003, 10:07 PM   #14
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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I don't want to sound like I am insulting you but I think you need to go and read some more about car audio and redesign your setup. What you are doing to save money is going to end up costing you more in the end.


Here is the basic KISS setup for really good car audio


head unit---amp for sub----sub in sealed,IB, or AP enclosure
\
amp for front speakers----front speaker crossover - Mid
\
Tweeter

There is no better sounding setup for the money spent.
Also it looks like you need 2 RCAs running to your amps but you could run your sub amp off the front speaker amp's line out.

From here the only thing to add is an EQ if you want.

Remember all car audio is 90% install and 10% componants.

goto http://www.carsound.com and read and ask questions.




P.S. If you planed on taking the tweeters of the coaxils why did you buy them? You could of got a decent set of componants for about the same price and they would of sounded much better.
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Old 16th May 2003, 10:27 PM   #15
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A few closing remarks:

1. I bought the Polk and Blaupunkt coaxials for $50 total shipped. I have not been able to find a set of good components shipped for that much.

2. If you would choose an adjustable low end crossover that affects the integrity of your bass (which is included in many amps as you mentioned above) over a high end phase coherent crossover, there isn't much you could say that would "insult" me.

3. A passive crossover will turn your bass progressively out of phase depending on the order of the crossover. If you like the way that sounds, you don't have to go to the trouble or expense of buying/building a hifi crossover. I prefer faster, tighter, more accurate bass, which is why I am taking the time to put together a high end low pass for my sub.

4. The crossover shown is a 24db/octave crossover.
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Old 16th May 2003, 10:41 PM   #16
JZatopa is offline JZatopa  United States
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1. $50 for 4 speakers is great. I would take that myself.

2. I don't think you have had much experience with car audio. The amount of phase change becuase of your lowend crossover is negligable becuuse of the small space and the amount of sound that is actualy affected (even if the soound leaves the speaker at 180deg out of phase that doesn't mean that it's absolute phase, when it reaches your ears, will be out of phase). Also was not talking at all about a higher end crossover. I was talking about speaker placements affect on phase on on how running rear speakers affects phase. My whole point is when it comes to your situation you are focusing on the wrong things. There are certin aspects when it comes to car audio that take presidence.

3. Ummmm this has nothing to do with the crossovers in car audio due to the fact that they are all active except for the crossovers that are for your front componants. You do know that the crossovers in all car audio amps are active and are on the line side and not passive and affecting the speaker side.

4. I'm sorry I thought I read 12/db an octave.
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