Kicker ZX 1500.1 Smoked - diyAudio
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Old 21st July 2009, 07:12 PM   #1
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Default Kicker ZX 1500.1 Smoked

Hello all,
I am new to this site and I have read through posts by searching.
All i know is soldering parts together by looking at a circuit diagram and basic electrical principles.

I am building a new car audio setup with
Kicker Zx 1500.1
Kicker Zx 650.4
Kicker S12 L7
Kicker RS 65.2
Kicker DS 6930

The amp was only installed two days back and it was working fine.
Today afternoon while leaving from work the audio system was working fine. While driving I switched off the HU and switched it back on after 30 secs.

Thats when i heard the boom and smoke... After the initial shock I switched off the HU.

When i plugged it back it the amp is switching on I guess but no output.

I opened to see what went wrong and so far visually this is visible

Click the image to open in full size.

Those are IRF 3205's

I planning to order them online. It will be really helpful if i need to check anything else or if i am wasting time on this

What i dont understand is why it got blown? Do to the heat?
Its around 40 degree outside temp and car was parked in the sun.
As you can see the MOSFET was cracked open.
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Old 22nd July 2009, 01:34 AM   #2
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Location: Louisiana
The amp would not have powered up if it was too hot. Most amps will operate up to ~80C.

After removing the power supply FETs, confirm that all of the gate resistors are within tolerance (±5% of printed value - 101 = 100 ohms, 680 = 68 ohms).

You also need to check the output transistors to determine if any have failed. You should not read anything near 0 ohms between any of the legs of any individual transistor. The outputs are the larger transistors diagonally across from the power supply transistors.

It's likely that the other power supply has also failed. The six FETs next to the ones that burned are the ones for the other supply. Again... You should not read anything near 0 ohms between any of the legs of any individual transistor.

Also check the driver transistors (Q24-Q27). You should pull them out of the circuit to check them.

If you don't know how to check transistors, use the links on the following page. The drivers are bipolar transistors. The rest are FETs.
http://www.bcae1.com/repairbasicsfor...estpage02.html
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Old 22nd July 2009, 03:23 AM   #3
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Thank you.
I will post picture of the complete amp just in case I cant find the other FETs and driver transistors.


I have been reading up bcae1.com and its from there i reached here.

I will update whats going.
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Old 22nd July 2009, 05:04 PM   #4
Dimon74 is offline Dimon74  United States
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Hi to all.Repaired one like this like 4 months ago,was easy job.In my case all IRF3205 were blown,because of two shorted IXTQ36N30 in output stage.Replaced all IRF3205,gates resistors,and also four drivers transistors ,they were two pair of 2SD667 and 2SB647 from HITACHI ,they are hard to find.Replaced them with BC640 and BC639 ,they have almost same specification.For output stage is great substitute FQA38N30 from Fairchild or even better to install FQA44N30 they can handle more current.Mosfets from Ixys are hard to find and they are more expensive.Amp is working great until now
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Old 22nd July 2009, 07:11 PM   #5
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I have ordered the 15 units of 3205's just incase..

How did it happen in your case? (switching on, Play at full load, short on speaker side)

Was it a kicker 1500.1 amplifier?

Was there any visible signs on the FET's and other transistors that they were blown? How did u find out what was blown?


Lets say my FETs are replaced and issue resolved. Will the amp perform like a new one?

I am also keeping my options open for a refurbished Kicker 1500.1 if this fails.
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Old 22nd July 2009, 10:04 PM   #6
Dimon74 is offline Dimon74  United States
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My amp was exactly ZX1500.1.To repair this amp you have to follow step by step .1 Remove all IRF3205 2.Measure the resistance all of gate resistors +-3% it is ok,but better to replace them.3After replaicing all resistor (w/o mosfets) put negative probe of the meter to the ground (drain of the mosfet or negative power terminal) it is show you the resistance,if I remember right,about 47k.If it out ,probably driver transistors broken.Have to replace them.4.After this you can try to power up amp w/o mosfets,to see what voltage you have on the gates and waveform(you need osciloscope),if you don't have one and you replaced driver transistors everything should be fine(usually TL494 survived in most cases) Meter shoud read on all gates like 6,25 to 6,50V.Do this first ,then we will continue.My amp probably get broken of the poor soldering.If you repair it in right way,it will work like brand new
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Old 23rd July 2009, 11:44 AM   #7
djQUAN is offline djQUAN  Philippines
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I fixed a ZX1000.1 before with the help from the guys over here. you can find the thread in here somewhere.

I got mine broken and gambled on trying to get it fixed so I could have a high powered amp for cheap. and it paid off.

basically, on mine, all PS fets blew and output inductor was fried. luckily, all drivers are good and output transistors were good too.

it seems that kicker never uses PS fetsfrom the same batch. mine was also that way. could have contributed to the failure because Fets that aren't from the same batch when operated in parallel don't share current very well.
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Old 26th July 2009, 10:12 PM   #8
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Today I decided to remove all those 12 fets.
And test the circuit but i got tried by removing them.

The quality of the board is not all that great.
The solder used is again terrible.
I would say even the design of the circuit is bad.

Maybe its just be but I had a hard time removing them.

Used a good quality lead to solder to fill them and then used the pump to remove them.

CAn someone tell me where to find the output inductor

Picture of the FETs. Different batch as observed.

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 26th July 2009, 10:12 PM   #9
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The one inductor near to the fets.

Is this the one?

How do i know its blown? Its basically a coil right?

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old 26th July 2009, 10:18 PM   #10
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If you apply enough new solder to allow the soldering iron to heat all 3 leads at once when the tip of the iron is laid across the leads, the transistors will almost fall out on their own. If they require any force to remove them, it will be minimal and it will be nearly impossible to damage the board.

Use the desoldering pump to remove the solder from the vias only after the transistors have been removed.
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