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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Great, thanks Perry, I saw in another post that you recommend replacing those with a mmbta56. Is there any unusual method for testing these, like I said, they didn't measure shorted or open and visually they look perfect.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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They're a standard PNP transistor so testing is straighforward.
I use MMBTA56s as replacements but you don't need to replace them if they're not damaged.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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there is a small (roughly 1/4" x 1/4" or a little less) metal, square two legged component on the same rail as the irf 3205's that I was curious about. It looks like it may have a resistor symbol below it on the board (can't really tell through the soot). I can't find any part info on it, do you know what this is and how I can identify it. since its right next to all the burnt 3205's I thought it may have suffered some damage as well.
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It sounds like a thermistor. Unless the legs are broken, it's likely OK. They rarely fail.
You need to clean the soot off of the board. Acetone works very well. Use cotton swabs or a toothbrush that's not made of transparent plastic (they melt). Do it outside where there's plenty of ventilation.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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Thats what I thought I just wasn't sure if I should be concerned with it , I was waiting to clean the board until I get the damaged components out which hopefully will be very soon. thanks again
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
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I use about a 1" paint brush if it blew soot under other things and made a big mess, the brush will get around and in most things. I pour a little acetone on the brush and keep the board tilted up, works great for larger messes. Yes I do that outside only. Usually I can get it clean without pulling any parts, though I often take the bad transistors out first. If you are careful applying just enough to the brush you don't have much runoff. Also shows if there is any other damage or burnt board/parts you could not see in the mess, so I like to do that right away.
Also have a larger paint brush I use dry for dust and bugs, etc. |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
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great, thanks for the suggestion.
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Orange County, CA
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There are some Kicker schematics in the automotive section at www.schematicsforfree.mattsoft.net
__________________
Dan Fraser |
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#20 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2012
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Quote:
I have a kicker zx750.1 on my bench now, all the FETs on one side were blown, beyond even needing a meter to identify their problem, I replaced all of them and didnt find any other parts shorted or outside of their normal characteristics, except for Q 05 & 11. both are open completely, one has a hole blown in it which leaves only the last two numbers, I am pretty sure they are the same "ASG49". My problem is even after scouring the net and all my favorite sites that usually cough up in short order every necessary detail, I can find no info whatsoever on this part number. I tried a56 in place of ASG and several variation in case I am not seeing them correctly, but nothing brings up any info at all! There is another unit on the board, but its surface mount and I dont have the tools to remove it in a fashion it is likely to be reusable to test the amount of gain. Since pretty much the best tool I have for this is a pair of pliers heated with a torch to remove them. You wouldnt happen to know the specs on this transistor or a equivalent part number? Also this unit also has 100 ohm gate resistors, non of them are damaged, in further observation since your last post in this forum, have you confirmed these should be changed to 47 ohms? (my natural tendency is to think the FETs are getting plenty signal already since they clearly experienced an over load condition) One thing I found odd is despite all these parts being in short condition, it didnt blow the fuses, apparently 80amps is too high a fuse value, or perhaps their supply was unable to provide that much current. Thank you very much for any info you can provide. Troy |
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