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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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Good day guys.
i bought a ruined class-D 1500wrms from a friend. i'm trying to revive the amp my self.(don't have the funds to have it repaired :bawling my problem is that the mosfets of the power supply section were toasted.. i have here couple of questions hope you could help me figure it out.. 1st the original mosfet was P60NF06..Can I substitute IRFZ44 as replacement? (since P60NF06 is not available here locally) BUT-one friend told me if i choose to replace P60NF06 with IRFz44 I wont be able to run a 1 ohm load with the amp.IS THIS TRUE??? 2nd 2 of the driver transistors (mosfet drivers i guess)had a hole in the middle(burnt).(SMD transistors)one marked M6 and the other one L6..i dont know the equivalent value for this transistors.but I think the M6 is a PNP and L6 is NPN. what can i have as a replacement? sorry for my ignorance..lolz i'm just starting to learn this hobby. thanks in advance for any help you can give! cheers! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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1. The Z44 will probably be OK. They are rated for less current. What other FETs do you have available? Are the IRFZ48s available?
2. The only SMD transistors that seem to match are the 2SA812 and 2SC1623. The case of the NEC parts are 0.3mm larger so these may not be the correct parts. I'd use the MMBTA56 and MMBTA06 as replacements. What make/model amp?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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thank you so much perry!
![]() oh my bad...i already bought irfz44. could have waited for the reply.. the amp is a sound magus x1502 1500rms class D i'll post some pics of before and the current progress of the amp. o btw can i use MPSA06 for L6? thanks again! good day. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2004
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ssmir |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() here are some pics of the amp. am already done with removing the parts of burnt board.(i had to drill a hole just to remove the coal i replaced all the SMD 47ohm and 10k ohm resistors with 1/4 watt same values. the only thing that bothers me is the values for M6 PNP that to be replaced. can any one give me an equivalent for this? the hard thing here in our place is the availability of SMD parts I think SMD resistors are the only SMD available here. I already have MPSA06 as substitute for MMBTA06. (thanks to perry!) thanks for the input redhorseaudio.I used to use that fet before with my class AB amplifier but then after it was rebuild I replaced it with IRFZ44.its pretty much the same i guess. thanks for input though. i appreciate it!any input guys? thanks! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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As far as I know, the mmbta06 is a good sub for the L6. The MPSA06 would work if you can get the leads on the correct pads. Using the leaded components in place of the SMD components puts a lot of stress on the pads and can make it easy to damage them if you're not careful.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If you use the TO-92 case, bend the leads similar to that in the attached photo and place a dot of adhesive between the body of the transistor and the board. This will help prevent damaging the pads.
You'll remove the old transistor. This was simply to show you approximately what it should look like.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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hi everyone.
got the fets in place. and already placed it back inside the case I was very unlucky for the past few days coz i cant find the transistors equivalent to MPSA56.. i saw a C32725 = BC327 PNP.and used it as replacement. but in mind that they have opposite pinouts. CEB from left. the problem was when i was firring it. the red (alarm) led was on while the blue (run) led blinks. i dont know where to start to trace the problem..is it because of the c32725? i didnt replace the SMD L6 NPN. but i checked it already and it was A ok. any inputs?please help me?im beginning to be depressed |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Did you check the IRF640s?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2009
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oh..i haven't checked those parts..i'll do by tonight.
o btw can i check fets while on circuit?or do i still have to remove them?thanks perry your doin d Lords work! |
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