help me with my amplifier

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Good day guys.

i bought a ruined class-D 1500wrms from a friend.
i'm trying to revive the amp my self.(don't have the funds to have it repaired :bawling
my problem is that the mosfets of the power supply section were toasted.. i have here couple of questions hope you could help me figure it out..

1st
the original mosfet was P60NF06..Can I substitute IRFZ44 as replacement?
(since P60NF06 is not available here locally)
BUT-one friend told me if i choose to replace P60NF06 with IRFz44 I wont be able to run a 1 ohm load with the amp.IS THIS TRUE???

2nd
2 of the driver transistors (mosfet drivers i guess)had a hole in the middle(burnt).(SMD transistors)one marked M6 and the other one L6..i dont know the equivalent value for this transistors.but I think the M6 is a PNP and L6 is NPN. what can i have as a replacement?

sorry for my ignorance..lolz i'm just starting to learn this hobby.
thanks in advance for any help you can give!
cheers!
 
1. The Z44 will probably be OK. They are rated for less current. What other FETs do you have available? Are the IRFZ48s available?

2. The only SMD transistors that seem to match are the 2SA812 and 2SC1623. The case of the NEC parts are 0.3mm larger so these may not be the correct parts.

I'd use the MMBTA56 and MMBTA06 as replacements.

What make/model amp?
 
thank you so much perry! :)
oh my bad...i already bought irfz44. could have waited for the reply.. :( but i think irfz48 isn't available neither.

the amp is a sound magus x1502 1500rms class D

i'll post some pics of before and the current progress of the amp.

o btw can i use MPSA06 for L6?

thanks again! good day.
 
Hi pong,

you can use IRF3205, this much powered mosfet see this image for detail
IRF3205.gif
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here are some pics of the amp.
am already done with removing the parts of burnt board.(i had to drill a hole just to remove the coal :( )
i replaced all the SMD 47ohm and 10k ohm resistors with 1/4 watt same values.

the only thing that bothers me is the values for M6 PNP that to be replaced. can any one give me an equivalent for this?
the hard thing here in our place is the availability of SMD parts :(
I think SMD resistors are the only SMD available here.
I already have MPSA06 as substitute for MMBTA06. (thanks to perry!)

thanks for the input redhorseaudio.I used to use that fet before with my class AB amplifier but then after it was rebuild I replaced it with IRFZ44.its pretty much the same i guess. :) thanks for input though. i appreciate it!

any input guys? thanks!
 
If you use the TO-92 case, bend the leads similar to that in the attached photo and place a dot of adhesive between the body of the transistor and the board. This will help prevent damaging the pads.

You'll remove the old transistor. This was simply to show you approximately what it should look like.
 

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hi everyone.
got the fets in place. and already placed it back inside the case
I was very unlucky for the past few days coz i cant find the transistors equivalent to MPSA56.. i saw a C32725 = BC327 PNP.and used it as replacement. but in mind that they have opposite pinouts. CEB from left.

the problem was when i was firring it. the red (alarm) led was on while the blue (run) led blinks. i dont know where to start to trace the problem..is it because of the c32725? i didnt replace the SMD L6 NPN. but i checked it already and it was A ok.

any inputs?please help me?im beginning to be depressed :( thanks!
 
checked the IRF640's today.. its A ok.

o btw i just remembered my DC Power supply only runs at 1.23mA(i checked it last night with my dvom) i was just wondering could it be the PSU cant turn on the circuit thats why it turns to protect mode???i'll try to borrow from my friend tonoght see what happens.

any other tests that i can do?..i was worried i'll fry the fets again. :(
 
why the hell did you buy SLA1500???? this is not a 1500w amp, more like 1200w if that, has pretty much bad sound, but is "pretty" cheap...fun first amp, until you have something else, which is a lot better

I have schema for it, if you want... It is from some model before, but at least you have latest model, I think it is still
 
pong:
You should get a proper power supply before you do any more troubleshooting. If the supply is rated for more than 5 amps, insert a 10 amp fuse in the B+ line before you power up the amp. Have all transistors clamped to the heatsink to prevent them from overheating if there is a problem causing the amp to draw excessive current.

The protection LED generally only illuminates when there is a problem in the audio section (and sometimes during the turn-on mute delay).

luka:
Does the schematic show the circuit for the audio driver board? I'm looking for the part number for the 14 pin IC.
 
ohh... i think they have perfectly the same schema and layout..weird..this amp is a sound magus x1502..yeah pretty quite cheap amp.. but pushes very good though.

can i have a copy of your schema?this would be a great help!thanks luka.

my bad should have invested on a good ac-dc supply. :(
i'll be borrowing from a friend tonight..hope some good would turn out..
 
Perry Babin said:
luka:
Does the schematic show the circuit for the audio driver board? I'm looking for the part number for the 14 pin IC. [/B]
No Perry, it does not [at least I think so, don't remember anymore], I would need to contact guy in charge for this amps here, that is what Company Sinus live said to me

Can't you read what that part is, like with UV or something like that?
 
pong said:
ohh... i think they have perfectly the same schema and layout..weird..this amp is a sound magus x1502..yeah pretty quite cheap amp.. but pushes very good though.

can i have a copy of your schema?this would be a great help!thanks luka.

my bad should have invested on a good ac-dc supply. :(
i'll be borrowing from a friend tonight..hope some good would turn out..

Hmm diffrent name but same same same board LOL


1
2
3
4

sinuslive-carhifi001.jpg

Versions of SLA, bottom looks just like yours

Sla1500_2.jpg
My amp, when I had it
 
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