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Old 3rd April 2009, 02:40 AM   #11
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Heres a pic.
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Old 3rd April 2009, 02:41 AM   #12
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Closer Pic
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Old 3rd April 2009, 08:01 PM   #13
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Well they are power supply fets, so the IRF540's might work without issues. BUT your gonna need to replace all 6 of them not just two of them. Most likely all the others are damaged also anyway. There may be even cheaper and better fets to upgrade to that would work in your amp. Like IRFZ-44's and what not.

And you might want to look at the vertical riser card to the left in the picture as i believe this is the power supply control board and I am betting there maybe some damaged fet driver transistors possibly located on this card. If they used them. A close up of the car would be helpful...

If they did not use fet gate drivers then the PWM IC most likely did not survive the failure IMO... Please post a close up of that board so I can be of better help to you...THX
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Old 3rd April 2009, 08:21 PM   #14
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Im just a Novice at this. Not sure what card you wanted. So heres a few pics.
Thanx.
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Old 3rd April 2009, 08:22 PM   #15
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Old 3rd April 2009, 08:23 PM   #16
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Old 3rd April 2009, 08:25 PM   #17
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Old 5th April 2009, 04:39 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally posted by whoya2350
Im just a Novice at this. Not sure what card you wanted. So heres a few pics.
Thanx.

The first pic is the power supply control card. The last two are channel drivers.
You doing fine for your level, so don't sweat the little stuff lol lol...

Remember replace all the supply fets, check all the gate resistors for each Fet they should all read the same, and realize that the little transistors on the card closest to the fets are likely damaged an may need replacement.


Now, another note about your amp. Unless you were operating it current starved I am thinking you might have a blown channel also.

Power supply's can fail by themselves but this is like 1 in 10 odds. 9 out of 10 it a symptom of a blown channel I.E. shorted outputs.

I highly recommend you take a ohm meter and check across the three leads of all the output transistors on the other side of the amp, and look for shorted or very low ohm readings.

Perry Babin posts here all the time please see any of his posts and look at the bottom of his posts. There will be a set of links to his web-site and tutorials on how to work on car amps. It is a excellent piece of work and I highly recommend you read and search his site before you go any further.
Perry is extremely intelligent about this subject and has put a bunch of work into his basic training program, and I can't stress enough how important his work is to your success. Please find his site and do a little pre-study before getting any deeper into you amp. I think you will thank him for his efforts after you link to his site and read up on his technical methods....
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Old 5th April 2009, 10:47 PM   #19
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I checked the output tansistors and they seem to be ok. No shorts or low readings. Gate resistors are reading the same.
When you say transistors on the power supply card. I dont see any unless they are really small flat ones. Not even sure how I would change those, They are not soldered on the back side of the board.
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Old 6th April 2009, 03:32 AM   #20
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The power supply card may use a 8 pin fet driver IC. Many amps do.

One way to be safe is to completely remove all the supply fets, then power up the amp and read the voltage on the resistors connected to the fet gate.
The values should match. If you get readings in the 12 volt range then the driver circuitry "could possibly be faulty".

You can install one fet in each bank and retest the amp but only if the amp is back into its sink, and you use a current limited supply set at about 3 amps max.
If your tools are limited and you can not current limit the feed power of 12 volts then try not to do this last step. If there is still something wrong you will toast those new fets in about 5 seconds, if that.

Again check out Perry Babin's web site link, it will save you ton's of time and questions
http://www.bcae1.com/repairbasicsfor...pairbasics.htm
http://www.bcae1.com/
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