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Old 21st March 2009, 03:13 PM   #21
infinia is offline infinia  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by caraudio

So we're back to the amp. Is this brand new amp a defective amp, and just by coincidence it does the EXACT same thing as my old amp??!!?
Unlikley
Sounds like the amps "remote turn on input" never goes off.

Measure that input to the amps (-) terminal
Then again to to batt (-) terminal
If you have extra batteries or BFC'stemporarily remove those trouble shoot.



edit>Not sure if this is you but, Using Chassis for multiple power gounds is trouble waiting.
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Old 21st March 2009, 03:31 PM   #22
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infinia. Thanks for the input!

Quote:
Originally posted by infinia

Measure that input to the amps (-) terminal
Then again to to batt (-) terminal
I'm sort of a novice with electrical circuits. How would I go about doing that...which probe where? And are you talking about the negative terminal of the car battery?


Quote:
Originally posted by infinia

If you have extra batterieries or BFC's temporalily remove those trouble shoot.
I'm not sure what a BFC is. But the only thing hooked up to the amp is the B+ and the ground. There is only 1 battery in my car, and there are no batteries in my amp.


Quote:
Originally posted by infinia
Not sure if this is you but>Using Chassis for multiple power gnd is trouble waiting.
The ground originally for my car was a small hole drilled in the frame of my car and I grounded it that way. It worked for many, many years. When I went under my hood I screwed the ground into a bolt which connected to the frame. Is this not a good ground?

I have never used this new amp. How would the "remote turn on input" ever be on in the first place?

Thanks so much, guys. I appreciate the input!
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Old 21st March 2009, 03:54 PM   #23
infinia is offline infinia  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by caraudio

I'm sort of a novice with electrical circuits. How would I go about doing that...which probe where? And are you talking about the negative terminal of the car battery?


I'm not sure what a BFC is. But the only thing hooked up to the amp is the B+ and the ground. There is only 1 battery in my car, and there are no batteries in my amp.
Use DMM on volts DC
2 measurements +meter to "remote on" at amp
1) - meter to amp power neg.
2) - meter to car batt neg.

BFC = Big F***ing Cap

Quote:
Originally posted by caraudio

The ground originally for my car was a small hole drilled in the frame of my car and I grounded it that way. It worked for many, many years. When I went under my hood I screwed the ground into a bolt which connected to the frame. Is this not a good ground?

I have never used this new amp. How would the "remote turn on input" ever be on in the first place?

Can connect remote on to amp power - neg. s/b off
Always ran double wires to amps myself. Never really trusted chassis ground over long term because of corrosive elements and loose nuts/bolts. Can be done well tho, if careful.
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Old 21st March 2009, 06:14 PM   #24
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That meter only goes to 250 milliamps. I don't know what settings you were using but it won't read 2 amps of current.

Are these MTX amps?
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Old 21st March 2009, 09:39 PM   #25
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Quote:
Originally posted by Perry Babin
That meter only goes to 250 milliamps. I don't know what settings you were using but it won't read 2 amps of current.

Are these MTX amps?

Hmm. Well I feel dumb. When it said Amps, I didn't know it was MilliAmps. So all along when I thought I was drawing 2 amps, it was really 2 milliamps.

So here's the thing. This is exactly what my old amp was drawing too, which was draining my battery after a day or two of being parked. I guess this is why I supposed it was full amps instead of milliamps (as well as my vast gap of electrical knowledge). So I just wonder what the real problem was with my old amp? Perry, the new amp is a Phoenix Gold V752 250 watt.

I guess I need to double check my remote. What's the best way, with the meter I currently have, to test to functionality of my remote?

Hey, guys, I really really appreciate your help.
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Old 21st March 2009, 09:46 PM   #26
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Set the meter to the 50v DC range. With the black probe on chassis ground and the red probe on the remote turn-on, you should read ~12v when the head unit is on and 0v when it's off.
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Old 22nd March 2009, 12:12 AM   #27
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Two milliamps would take a LONG time to drain your battery. That totally wouldn't be the problem. What vehicle do you have? I've had a few customers come in griping their amps or radios were draining their batteries and it would usually be a trunk or dome light staying on, a few times it turned out to be defective alternators dissipating power internally. If you don't have any lights that stay on, feel the alternator with the engine cold and see if its warm. (Of course you'll need a charged battery that's been connected to the car for a few hours.

Try this:
-totally disconnect ground and power at the amp
-disconnect the car battery's ground and leave the + connected
-put your meter between the battery - and the - power cable and check for current draw

Regardless, if its only 2 milliamps that won't be the problem. Now, 200 milliamps could do it, but it would still take over a day.
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Old 22nd March 2009, 03:34 PM   #28
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Thank a ton, guys. I have it working now. And I've verified that it doesn't draw excessive amps all while the remote is working. I don't know what happened to my other amp, but this one is good to go now. I can't thank you enough!!
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