Here's the deal. I have recently found a PPI PC2350 online for a killer deal; don't want to say how much cause I don't want anyone else to get it first. The only issue that it has supposedly is the internal fan will not come on, so the amp overheats in a matter of minutes and shuts down. (this is the information I was given by the seller) I want to know if anyone (TO3 the PPI god from my reading on here) can help me figure out if it's worth buying the amp and trying to repair it myself. I have been a huge PPI fan since the late 1990's and have always wanted one of these amps.
Second amp, PC2100. This was my screw up bigtime. I have a PC2100 that I was having issues with, come to find out too late it was just a really bad ground, but I fried it. I forgot to unhook the amp before putting a battery charger on the car, smoked the amp literally.
If there is anyone out there who can give me a thought on fixing either one of these amps please help. I am trying to get both of my PC2100's and the PC2350 into my 2000 Passat GLX for a killer sound system.
Second amp, PC2100. This was my screw up bigtime. I have a PC2100 that I was having issues with, come to find out too late it was just a really bad ground, but I fried it. I forgot to unhook the amp before putting a battery charger on the car, smoked the amp literally.
If there is anyone out there who can give me a thought on fixing either one of these amps please help. I am trying to get both of my PC2100's and the PC2350 into my 2000 Passat GLX for a killer sound system.
Like I said, I am just going off of what the sell has told me. It might run for 20 minutes before shutting down, I'm not sure. It's about an hour drive to meet up with this person, and I don't want to waste the time or gas.
Also, the old PPI amps were notorious for getting very hot. This is why everything larger than the PC2100 had internal fans. I learned the hard way how hot they get, and gave myself a nice first/second degree burn many years back.
Also, the old PPI amps were notorious for getting very hot. This is why everything larger than the PC2100 had internal fans. I learned the hard way how hot they get, and gave myself a nice first/second degree burn many years back.
If you got burned by an amp, it wasn't operating normally. I've owned several ppi amps (several am's, arts, one pc2350, a few arts) and none of them got hot enough to burn skin. Most amps will run hot if you run them at their lowest capable impedance. I still run two a600.2's and they run just warm.
There is no way to know if you're getting a good deal on the 2350 without a price for reference. I sold mine for $375 I believe but believe they are worth more than that in good condition.
There is no way to know if you're getting a good deal on the 2350 without a price for reference. I sold mine for $375 I believe but believe they are worth more than that in good condition.
Well to start with your stock charging system will not handle these two amps together in you 2K Passat. The current draw from the 2350 alone will most likely burn out your alternator.
Plus I must agree, that for a 2350 to be cutting off from heat ??? That there are most likely other issues at play besides a single cooling fan issue. I also own a couple 2350's < I was impressed with there design many years back when they were new >
Your buying someone else's troubles, so be prepared for anything....
If the 2350 isn't one with the plexi cover and the individual clamps for each row of transistors, it uses the bottom cover to clamp the transistors to the heatsink. Do NOT power the amp up without the bottom cover in place until you determine whether the amp is drawing excessive current or not. If the amp is drawing excessive current due to a fault in the audio section and you power it up without the transistors being tightly clamped to the heatsink, you can destroy 3/4 of the transistors in the amp in a few seconds. This will be VERY time consuming to repair.
When you get it, power it up (through a 15-20 amp fuse) and let it idle for several minutes. If it remains cool and doesn't blow the fuse, the problem may simply be due to a defective fan or a fault in the fan control circuit.
If it runs hot, someone may have gone in and set the bias higher than it should be.
If only one side of the amp gets hot at idle, that will tell you which channel has a problem.
When you get it, power it up (through a 15-20 amp fuse) and let it idle for several minutes. If it remains cool and doesn't blow the fuse, the problem may simply be due to a defective fan or a fault in the fan control circuit.
If it runs hot, someone may have gone in and set the bias higher than it should be.
If only one side of the amp gets hot at idle, that will tell you which channel has a problem.
Okay, well since someone has asked, and to really find out weather it's worth the money. The Pc2350 is being sold for $200 straight out. I really just don't want to buy an amp that I will never be able to fix personally or with out dumping a lot of money into it. These economic times have hit a lot of people hard, and I'm no exception.
I will check with the seller again, and see what I can figure out. Hate to say it, but he's not the original owner. Long story short, one of his family members moved out of the country and he's trying to sell the amps and subs to make some money to send to him.
Still any thoughts on if this amp is worth the $200 even with the possible issues that might occur while trying to fix it?
I will check with the seller again, and see what I can figure out. Hate to say it, but he's not the original owner. Long story short, one of his family members moved out of the country and he's trying to sell the amps and subs to make some money to send to him.
Still any thoughts on if this amp is worth the $200 even with the possible issues that might occur while trying to fix it?
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