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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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Well now I've got two cheapo amps to try and repair. I've got the other amp taken care of except for some capacitors I will order when buying the fets for the alphasonik. EVERY FRICKIN FET in the power supply is shorted, lol. And there are 16, argghhh.. I dread having to replace every one, especially because of the lame spring clamps holding them in. I'll probably destroy several of the fets from improperly reinstalling the clamps. Wow, I guess its time to rig one of those remover tools, eh Perry?
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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With the right tool, it takes less than 1 minute to remove all of the clamps.
The FETs are inexpensive and it generally takes longer to clean the soot off of the board than it does to remove the FETs. Did you check the audio FETs to determine if any failed? Does this amp have the vertical driver board with the fan between it and the two inductors?
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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Yep, it has a vertical board with a fan next to it that blows on the inductors. Also has another small fan blowing onto the main board. I'll have to double check the outputs but they tested ok first time around.
__________________
Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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All outputs and rectifiers tested ok as far as my meter could find. I popped all of the clamps with a broken bent pick, hopefully I can get them back on just as easily. Now I just have to remove all of the power supply fets and install the replacements without damaging them. Good thing they are less sensitive to static than the early versions.
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Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
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#5 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
soldered orion style...
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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Quote:
__________________
Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Add new solder to the transistor's connections and heat all 3 at the same time (lay the iron's tip across all 3 legs). If there are no burrs on the legs, the transistors should fall out. If they do have burrs, clip the burrs with flush cutting nippers and they will not get caught.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
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Quote:
__________________
Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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It shouldn't take more than 2 seconds to heat the solder after the iron makes contact. If it takes more than 3 seconds, you either need a hotter iron or a better/cleaner tip.
Also, you should never apply pressure to the pad with the tip of the iron unless it's absolutely necessary. If you add new solder, the solder will be well above the board. Hold the iron in the molten solder above the pad. If you have a wide tip, you can heat it from the bottom and desolder from the top. A wider tip distributes the pressure and helps prevent damaging the board if you make contact with the pad. If you're working on a board with copper on both sides, heat the side with the most copper.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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