alphasonik class "d" 2400 watt amp... frizznied - diyAudio
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Old 24th January 2009, 04:25 AM   #1
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Default alphasonik class "d" 2400 watt amp... frizznied

Well now I've got two cheapo amps to try and repair. I've got the other amp taken care of except for some capacitors I will order when buying the fets for the alphasonik. EVERY FRICKIN FET in the power supply is shorted, lol. And there are 16, argghhh.. I dread having to replace every one, especially because of the lame spring clamps holding them in. I'll probably destroy several of the fets from improperly reinstalling the clamps. Wow, I guess its time to rig one of those remover tools, eh Perry?
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Old 24th January 2009, 05:26 AM   #2
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With the right tool, it takes less than 1 minute to remove all of the clamps.

The FETs are inexpensive and it generally takes longer to clean the soot off of the board than it does to remove the FETs.

Did you check the audio FETs to determine if any failed?

Does this amp have the vertical driver board with the fan between it and the two inductors?
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Old 24th January 2009, 01:53 PM   #3
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Yep, it has a vertical board with a fan next to it that blows on the inductors. Also has another small fan blowing onto the main board. I'll have to double check the outputs but they tested ok first time around.
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Old 25th January 2009, 03:11 AM   #4
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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All outputs and rectifiers tested ok as far as my meter could find. I popped all of the clamps with a broken bent pick, hopefully I can get them back on just as easily. Now I just have to remove all of the power supply fets and install the replacements without damaging them. Good thing they are less sensitive to static than the early versions.
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Old 25th January 2009, 05:52 AM   #5
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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Default Re: alphasonik class "d" 2400 watt amp... frizznied

Quote:
Originally posted by ppia600
EVERY FRICKIN FET in the power supply is shorted, lol. And there are 16, argghhh.. I dread having to replace every one,
...ehh, try changing all the to-220's cases on a 2150sx...47 pcs !!!

soldered orion style...
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Old 25th January 2009, 03:19 PM   #6
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Default Re: Re: alphasonik class "d" 2400 watt amp... frizznied

Quote:
Originally posted by Clipped


...ehh, try changing all the to-220's cases on a 2150sx...47 pcs !!!

soldered orion style...
Trust me, I have. It was a black orion about two feet long, for my friend. He got it cheap and wanted to use it at a local crank it up competition so I did it for way too cheap. I cant find it on ampguts, for some reason I'm thinking it was a 700w rms amp. At least on those orions the legs are surface mount and you can heat all three and slide them off. On this alphasonik they are through hole.... not as fun.
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Old 25th January 2009, 03:28 PM   #7
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Add new solder to the transistor's connections and heat all 3 at the same time (lay the iron's tip across all 3 legs). If there are no burrs on the legs, the transistors should fall out. If they do have burrs, clip the burrs with flush cutting nippers and they will not get caught.
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Old 25th January 2009, 03:44 PM   #8
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Perry Babin
Add new solder to the transistor's connections and heat all 3 at the same time (lay the iron's tip across all 3 legs). If there are no burrs on the legs, the transistors should fall out. If they do have burrs, clip the burrs with flush cutting nippers and they will not get caught.
I usually add solder to take them out, but getting the solder out of the individual holes is more difficult for me. I usually damage some of the traces when trying to use the solder sucker, mainly from heating the board too long I guess.
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Old 25th January 2009, 03:55 PM   #9
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It shouldn't take more than 2 seconds to heat the solder after the iron makes contact. If it takes more than 3 seconds, you either need a hotter iron or a better/cleaner tip.

Also, you should never apply pressure to the pad with the tip of the iron unless it's absolutely necessary. If you add new solder, the solder will be well above the board. Hold the iron in the molten solder above the pad. If you have a wide tip, you can heat it from the bottom and desolder from the top. A wider tip distributes the pressure and helps prevent damaging the board if you make contact with the pad.

If you're working on a board with copper on both sides, heat the side with the most copper.
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Old 26th January 2009, 03:00 AM   #10
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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Default Re: Re: Re: alphasonik class "d" 2400 watt amp... frizznied

Quote:
Originally posted by ppia600


Trust me, I have. It was a black orion about two feet long, for my friend. He got it cheap and wanted to use it at a local crank it up competition so I did it for way too cheap. I cant find it on ampguts, for some reason I'm thinking it was a 700w rms amp. At least on those orions the legs are surface mount and you can heat all three and slide them off. On this alphasonik they are through hole.... not as fun.
i feel your pain...
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