2 Remote Amp Leads into Deck ??

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Hey everyone,

I recently go my CD player working [clarion DXZ785USB] in my car but there is a distortion sound everytime I fast foward to the next track or go to the previous track.

This happens not only when playing CD's but also when using the USB attachment as well.

Again it ONLY happens when i'm going to next track or to previous track manually through hitting >> and << .

...

Some info about my setup - I'm running stock bose components that each have their own amp. Thus the wires coming up into the stock harness are actually the amp leads.

After taking the advice of some knowledgable guys around these parts [tsmith and ppia] I wired the 4 speakers directly into the pre-amps on the back of my deck via custom made RCA adapters that without a doubt work.

However at this point i'm thinking these might be the cause OR:

#2: because of the fact that there's a blue and white remote turn on coming from the harness that is wired in with the blue remote turn on from my amp in the trunk for my sub that then goes into the 3rd blue and white remote turn on coming from the deck.

My buddy who has more experience than me said "what can it hurt" ... ?? I still dont know the answer to that.

#3: Possibly because of the fact that the ground wire coming from the deck is only grounded to a screw that is screwed into a plastic piece of my dash ?? Not enough ground ??

Other than these 3 things I dont really know what would cause that click like distortion that ONLY appears when skipping to the next track and skipping to the previous track ...

ANY help on this would be greatly appreciated
~ eric

PS. Coming from my harness there are two orange wires , one for illumination and one with a black line down it for "dimmer" ... My deck however only has 1 orange wire for illumination ... Could I wire the black striped "dimmer" wire in with the other two wires??
 
The ground wire comming from your deck isnt grounded at all. u said is was on a screw that is screwed into plastic thats no a ground. So imthinking your cd player is grounding through the antenna. You need to find a good ground location for this wire bare metal in the dash somewhere.

Also u said something about the dimmer wire the only thing that wire does is dim the lights on the cd player at night when headlights are on if connected u dont have to connect it unless u want the lights on the cd player to dim at night

also u said u have 3 or 4 things running off the remote wire from your deck u might wanna add a relay in the remote wire comming from the deck.

and last thing is where do u have the gain set on your sub amp if u got it all the way turned up that might be where the distorion is comming from trying turning it down a lil
 
Hi mike ,

thanks for the input ...

I actually just drove around for the past 2 hours fiddling with my stereo and it turns out that the clicking / cutout sounding distortion ALSO comes in when the tracks are just playing and they end and transition to the next :xeye: i'm a dumbass LOL.

- About the grounding - I thought so but my buddy insisted its fine, that will definetly get fixed ...

- For the dimmer , aparently I dont need it because the dimmer function on my Deck works just fine.

- For the antenna , Its not connected , I actually decapitated the end of the antenna connector coming from my car hoping I could wire it into the adapter I had bought (which was the wrong one) ... Lets just say i'm going to be learning how to rewire car Antenna's LOL (any advice ??)

- The gain on my amp is only on 2 out of 7 because i'm running an IB subwoofer setup in my trunk.

- For the 2 blue/white remote on wires connected into the 1 remote lead coming from the deck - I'll do some research on relays.

thanks for you help :)
 
metaverse said:


- About the grounding - I thought so but my buddy insisted its fine, that will definetly get fixed ...

- For the antenna , Its not connected , I actually decapitated the end of the antenna connector coming from my car hoping I could wire it into the adapter I had bought (which was the wrong one) ... Lets just say i'm going to be learning how to rewire car Antenna's LOL (any advice ??)

- The gain on my amp is only on 2 out of 7 because i'm running an IB subwoofer setup in my trunk.

- For the 2 blue/white remote on wires connected into the 1 remote lead coming from the deck - I'll do some research on relays.



The Clarion's ground wire is not of consequence if you're deck is mounted using the factory brackets. Ground will happen directly through the chassis in that case.

Try connecting the "amp ground" to the Clarion's chassis.

Also try it with the Earthquake RCA's disconnected.

Trace the antenna lead back into the dash a couple of feet. You may find that what you cut was the end of an extension. It was under the glove box taped to the dash frame (well hidden) in the previous generation.
 
hey good buddy ,

I will definetly be grounding the "amp ground" wire coming from the harness.

when you say "disconnect the rca's from the earthquake" do you mean IF the amp ground thing doesn't work ??

Also do you want me to disconnect them at the deck preamps or at the amp itself ?

:::

What're your thoughts on the Tri-wired Remote leads ??
 
That sound is caused by a very small power draw in the deck that is being amplified by the sub amp. Be absolutely sure the deck's main ground is connected directly to the frame of the vehicle especially if the deck's chassis isn't bolted into factory metal brackets. The sound you are hearing is the power draw of the cd mechanism's motor moving the laser back and forth. It also happens sometimes when the rca output ground on the deck has an open circuit. Also make sure you have super heavy duty grounding at the amp.

You can also run both of the car's harness blue/blue whites and the remote wire on the amp from the deck's blue/white wire. They don't draw enough current to damage the deck's remote wire.

Also, only use the orange wire on the car harness for the orange on the deck. Don't use the orange/black, tape it up.
 
metaverse said:


when you say "disconnect the rca's from the earthquake" do you mean IF the amp ground thing doesn't work ??

Also do you want me to disconnect them at the deck preamps or at the amp itself ?

:::

What're your thoughts on the Tri-wired Remote leads ??


Yes, IF the amp ground thing doesn't work. This will take the Earthquake amp out of the picture to see how the factory amps are working with the new Clarion. Disconnect whichever end is easiest to reach.

ppia600; do you know if the '97 Nissan-Bose amps use balanced or grounded inputs? I know previous versions worked fine with grounded RCA shields.

I agree with ppia600, the deck should be able to supply enough current to turn everything on. Even if that was an issue, this noise wouldn't be a result of that problem. Your solution will lie in grounding or isolation of grounds.
 
Hey guys,

I ended up running into some drama within life and kind of put off testing my system however I am back.

I did ground the wire directly to the metal chasis a few inches behind the deck.

I grounded the amp lead wire to the deck.

I disconnected the RCA's from the amp.

I disconnected the Tri-wired leads.

I also decided to run only one set of the pre-amps at a time , either just the fronts or just the rears to test if my twisted wire and taped adapters were the issue. I figured without the solder maybe there was a weak connection in one or two of them.

I tested all of these things individually and the first "bmp bmp" of the song ending followed by the second "bmp bmp" of the next song coming in is still there.

This sound happens when cycling through "source" between radio/cd/usb/aux , ect... as well as when the songs are being played via the USB thumb drive connected and when CD's are playing.

The deck is grounded to factory metal brackets as well however I believe the brackets rest mostly on plastic that is covering the metal of the chassis. The ground wire is run under that plastic so that it touches the actual metal beneath that plastic.

At this point i'm thinking it may just be the adapters themselves and I have to solder them ??

I will say this much too - I dont know if this applies - but the wires from the Interconnects were probably about half the size of the wires on the harness.
 
PS.

After checking the stock harness PINS versus the metra harness pins - I did see that the stock harness has a pin in the same place that connects into the metra harness "amp lead ground" wire.

After wiring this amp ground to the metal on the deck the sound was still there.

I also tried grounding this same wire to the chassis to no avail.

I believe the ground is connected to the chassis because when I took it off to move it somewhere more secure the power antenna started to go crazy going up and down and the motor on the antenna still running until I attached it to the chassis. Then it was fine again.
 
Did you check to see if the rca outer shields are internally grounded? You'll have to disconnect the deck totally and use a meter to check for continuity between the deck's body and the outer shield connections of its rca jacks. They all need to have continuity to the deck's body/ground. The maxima's preamp inputs won't have any effect on the earthquake thumping, unless the deck's rca grounds are internally broken.

Try disconnecting the car's bose rca jacks and just use the earthquake's rcas. First take a piece of wire long enough to wrap around the rca outputs you're using for the amp at the deck. Wrap it around the metal of the rca barrels on the deck and plug the earthquake's rcas back in. Then ground the other end of the wire to the body of the deck. Try for the "thump" with it connected like that. If there is no more thump, the deck's internal rca ground connection is broken. You can actually just leave that wire you used for the test grounded if you don't want to disassemble the deck to repair the trace(s).
 
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