First gen 250 Orion

SS64 · 4th January 2009, 04:06 AM

I was just wondering what part numbers are the best replacements for the rectifiers that attach to the rails? What are the highest rated and most reliable?

Thanks

Sam

I Am An Idiot · 4th January 2009, 01:03 PM

Did the rectifiers fail?

SS64 · 4th January 2009, 05:07 PM

I had an output fail and when I was trying to remove the rail the top half of the rectifiers broke off. Partly because I had a major stupid moment....but that is another story...
I was also wondering sence I have the thing apart. Can I switch out the 07 and 57 drivers to the ones like I have in my second gen? I know the one number is a 1307 but I cant remember the other. They are the big plastic case ones that where normally black and green.

I Am An Idiot · 5th January 2009, 01:24 AM

I am pretty sure that the highest current capacity for a TO-220 cased half wave rectifier is 16 amps. What is the part number of the one that got broken? If it has a 16 in the number there is probably no higher current one available. I can not remember ever having to replace one of those.

SS64 · 5th January 2009, 02:19 AM

Its a SF163c. So like you said there are probably no better replacements. And these parts have been replaced before in this amp. Who ever replaced them did a horrible solder job and took some of the pad with the old parts. Well I will be getting some parts tomorrow hopefully.
You have any thoughts on my driver question?

Perry Babin · 5th January 2009, 10:45 PM

These are the rectifiers that I generally use.

863-MUR1620CTG
863-MUR1620CTRG

Are the drivers you want to use in the TO-220 case? 2SA1307?

SS64 · 6th January 2009, 12:55 AM

Thanks for the rectifier numbers Perry.
Ya I was wondering if the 2sa1306 and its counter part ( the ones in the to-220 plastic case)
Would be a valuable up grade? Or are the 07 and 57's better?
Sorry about the 1307 thing..sometimes I get the part numbers from my cb radio hobby confused with my car audio hobby.

Perry Babin · 6th January 2009, 01:04 AM

I'd leave the original transistors in the amp until they fail. The TO-220 transistors have a different pin configuration so you'd have to hard wire one of the terminals.

There are probably better subs if you need them. For amps with less than 80v rail to rail, the 2N6488/91 would be a good choice. For amps with higher rail voltage, the MJE15030/31 are a good choice.

SS64 · 6th January 2009, 01:10 AM

Ok thanks Perry. I will just leave it alone for now. I replaced all the outputs so they would match, so I don't expect it to blow up anytime soon..
Thank you for your help.

4th January 2009, 04:06 AM	#1
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	First gen 250 Orion I was just wondering what part numbers are the best replacements for the rectifiers that attach to the rails? What are the highest rated and most reliable? Thanks Sam __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

4th January 2009, 01:03 PM	#2
I Am An Idiot diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Did the rectifiers fail? __________________ If it ain't broke Don't fix it

4th January 2009, 05:07 PM	#3
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	I had an output fail and when I was trying to remove the rail the top half of the rectifiers broke off. Partly because I had a major stupid moment....but that is another story... I was also wondering sence I have the thing apart. Can I switch out the 07 and 57 drivers to the ones like I have in my second gen? I know the one number is a 1307 but I cant remember the other. They are the big plastic case ones that where normally black and green. __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

5th January 2009, 01:24 AM	#4
I Am An Idiot diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	I am pretty sure that the highest current capacity for a TO-220 cased half wave rectifier is 16 amps. What is the part number of the one that got broken? If it has a 16 in the number there is probably no higher current one available. I can not remember ever having to replace one of those. __________________ If it ain't broke Don't fix it

5th January 2009, 02:19 AM	#5
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	Its a SF163c. So like you said there are probably no better replacements. And these parts have been replaced before in this amp. Who ever replaced them did a horrible solder job and took some of the pad with the old parts. Well I will be getting some parts tomorrow hopefully. You have any thoughts on my driver question? __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!


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5th January 2009, 10:45 PM	#6
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	These are the rectifiers that I generally use. 863-MUR1620CTG 863-MUR1620CTRG Are the drivers you want to use in the TO-220 case? 2SA1307? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

6th January 2009, 12:55 AM	#7
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	Thanks for the rectifier numbers Perry. Ya I was wondering if the 2sa1306 and its counter part ( the ones in the to-220 plastic case) Would be a valuable up grade? Or are the 07 and 57's better? Sorry about the 1307 thing..sometimes I get the part numbers from my cb radio hobby confused with my car audio hobby. __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

6th January 2009, 01:04 AM	#8
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I'd leave the original transistors in the amp until they fail. The TO-220 transistors have a different pin configuration so you'd have to hard wire one of the terminals. There are probably better subs if you need them. For amps with less than 80v rail to rail, the 2N6488/91 would be a good choice. For amps with higher rail voltage, the MJE15030/31 are a good choice. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

6th January 2009, 01:10 AM	#9
SS64 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2008	Ok thanks Perry. I will just leave it alone for now. I replaced all the outputs so they would match, so I don't expect it to blow up anytime soon.. Thank you for your help. __________________ It isn't fun unless it can kill you!

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