|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
|
I have been looking at some of the mids and the woofers in my catolag. the woofers look really beefy and some handle more power. could they be used (crossed over of coarse) for a midrange?
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Louis y ana
|
As long as they can produce frequencies in the range you need for your mids... check their specs. You may need to use a larger tweeter that can drop lower to compensate for using some woofers
__________________
Don't worry... you can always turn the gain down! |
|
|
|
|
#3 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2007
|
Most of the HD 6.5 do not play well at higher frequency. You need to go to something like the peerless xls or what ever the letters are
For a good mid you might use something like the dayton rs for example (a good bang for the buck driver). Anyway note how it looks lighter weight and if you check the response charts should be smoother and have a higher range of recommended frequency use....but will drop off on the bottom. The hefty cone you need for a woofer just can't produce good sound up in the mid, and the other way around. Like said above you can go with a large tweeter that can go lower, or even a 2-3" driver depending on your install. Two way you have to match drivers pretty close and is near impossible to use a woofer or small tweeter...woofer being something that will blast 80-120Hz midbass. Really something like the dayton rs will do ok, you just can't get a lot of midbass output as it can't handle a lot of power in bass like a more HD woofer type driver can...so it does depend on what kind of output you need.
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
skooter, sorry if I threadjack a bit but your topic gave me an idea...
I have a pair of these. and was thinking of mounting them along with a pair of MB Quart tweets in fiberglass pods in the A pillar. 6.5" Quart midbasses in the doors. I have a DCX2496 and planning on crossing them at 250Hz HP and 4kHz LP powered by an amp9basic running on ~25V (~50wrms @ 4ohms, 25wrms @ 8ohms) other two channels will drive the tweets and an amp2 will drive the midbasses. would it work or should I stick the bigger 4" Quart mids in the A pillars? I'm just worried that I might fry the mids (3 inchers) when I turn the volume up at times. |
|
|
|
|
#5 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
|
Quote:
Of course, You are the best judge of how loud you need I get the feeling you should go to larger mids. Syd |
|
|
|
|
|
#6 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Doerun, GA
|
Quote:
Agreed. Aside from significantly less cone area, the HiVi's sensitivity is quite low. Double whammy. Neither is going to go very low unless the fiberglass pod is bigger than I'm imagining. I've been wrestling with essentially the same dilemma...
__________________
Tim |
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: Mar del Plata, a BIG seasonal getaway city, can see the Ocean from our residence.
|
Perhaps you could gang together multiples of these three inchers for the mids......you could string several going up the pillar.
The low impedence capacity of most all car amps would easily drive multiples. Without using these a "Pod" at the pillar would be ugly at any size bigger than a 3". You would then need to rethink WHERE am I going to use a bigger driver. _____________________________________________Rick. ..... |
|
|
|
|
#8 |
|
diyAudio Member
|
I'm not going to use a regular car amp. I'm going to use two channels of the 41Hz amp9basic kit which is a 4 channel class T module with around 50wrms/ch at 4ohms.
more mids won't be an option as I was hoping for a smaller pod but looks like I'm stuck with the 4" mid. I was thinking of going 3 way since the imaging is a mess in my system. taking the midrange off the doors and taking them up to the windshield could eliminate the boxiness caused by the center console in the footwell. image gets stuck between my legs. I've tried everything from messing with the crossover freq's and slopes, time delays and tweeter mounting.
|
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| suspending a small tweeter in front of woofer for "coaxial" effect? | bikehorn | Multi-Way | 3 | 2nd January 2006 02:04 PM |
| 400W RMS at 35V , it is posible ?? | darkm4n | Solid State | 7 | 16th April 2005 02:50 PM |
| WTB: Focal & Audiom & Volts 11", 12", 13", 15" woofer | gengis | Swap Meet | 0 | 17th March 2005 02:29 AM |
| cheap 6" or 8" woofer to make great bass for a standard cab pick up | zuki | Subwoofers | 12 | 15th February 2005 07:54 AM |
| Amp driver section: What's better, many parallel mosfets, or, as few as posible? | Brian Guralnick | Solid State | 14 | 24th January 2003 02:39 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.09465 seconds (77.70% PHP - 22.30% MySQL) with 11 queries |