Most of the HD 6.5 do not play well at higher frequency. You need to go to something like the peerless xls or what ever the letters are
For a good mid you might use something like the dayton rs for example (a good bang for the buck driver). Anyway note how it looks lighter weight and if you check the response charts should be smoother and have a higher range of recommended frequency use....but will drop off on the bottom. The hefty cone you need for a woofer just can't produce good sound up in the mid, and the other way around. Like said above you can go with a large tweeter that can go lower, or even a 2-3" driver depending on your install. Two way you have to match drivers pretty close and is near impossible to use a woofer or small tweeter...woofer being something that will blast 80-120Hz midbass. Really something like the dayton rs will do ok, you just can't get a lot of midbass output as it can't handle a lot of power in bass like a more HD woofer type driver can...so it does depend on what kind of output you need.
For a good mid you might use something like the dayton rs for example (a good bang for the buck driver). Anyway note how it looks lighter weight and if you check the response charts should be smoother and have a higher range of recommended frequency use....but will drop off on the bottom. The hefty cone you need for a woofer just can't produce good sound up in the mid, and the other way around. Like said above you can go with a large tweeter that can go lower, or even a 2-3" driver depending on your install. Two way you have to match drivers pretty close and is near impossible to use a woofer or small tweeter...woofer being something that will blast 80-120Hz midbass. Really something like the dayton rs will do ok, you just can't get a lot of midbass output as it can't handle a lot of power in bass like a more HD woofer type driver can...so it does depend on what kind of output you need.skooter, sorry if I threadjack a bit but your topic gave me an idea...
I have a pair of these. and was thinking of mounting them along with a pair of MB Quart tweets in fiberglass pods in the A pillar. 6.5" Quart midbasses in the doors. I have a DCX2496 and planning on crossing them at 250Hz HP and 4kHz LP powered by an amp9basic running on ~25V (~50wrms @ 4ohms, 25wrms @ 8ohms) other two channels will drive the tweets and an amp2 will drive the midbasses. would it work or should I stick the bigger 4" Quart mids in the A pillars? I'm just worried that I might fry the mids (3 inchers) when I turn the volume up at times.
I have a pair of these. and was thinking of mounting them along with a pair of MB Quart tweets in fiberglass pods in the A pillar. 6.5" Quart midbasses in the doors. I have a DCX2496 and planning on crossing them at 250Hz HP and 4kHz LP powered by an amp9basic running on ~25V (~50wrms @ 4ohms, 25wrms @ 8ohms) other two channels will drive the tweets and an amp2 will drive the midbasses. would it work or should I stick the bigger 4" Quart mids in the A pillars? I'm just worried that I might fry the mids (3 inchers) when I turn the volume up at times.
HK26147 said:
I get the feeling you should go to larger mids.
Syd
Agreed.
Aside from significantly less cone area, the HiVi's sensitivity is quite low. Double whammy. Neither is going to go very low unless the fiberglass pod is bigger than I'm imagining.
I've been wrestling with essentially the same dilemma...
Perhaps you could gang together multiples of these three inchers for the mids......you could string several going up the pillar.
The low impedence capacity of most all car amps would easily drive multiples.
Without using these a "Pod" at the pillar would be ugly at any size bigger than a 3". You would then need to rethink WHERE am I going to use a bigger driver.
_____________________________________________Rick......
The low impedence capacity of most all car amps would easily drive multiples.
Without using these a "Pod" at the pillar would be ugly at any size bigger than a 3". You would then need to rethink WHERE am I going to use a bigger driver.
_____________________________________________Rick......
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I'm not going to use a regular car amp. I'm going to use two channels of the 41Hz amp9basic kit which is a 4 channel class T module with around 50wrms/ch at 4ohms.
more mids won't be an option as I was hoping for a smaller pod but looks like I'm stuck with the 4" mid.
I was thinking of going 3 way since the imaging is a mess in my system. taking the midrange off the doors and taking them up to the windshield could eliminate the boxiness caused by the center console in the footwell. image gets stuck between my legs.
I've tried everything from messing with the crossover freq's and slopes, time delays and tweeter mounting.
more mids won't be an option as I was hoping for a smaller pod but looks like I'm stuck with the 4" mid.
I was thinking of going 3 way since the imaging is a mess in my system. taking the midrange off the doors and taking them up to the windshield could eliminate the boxiness caused by the center console in the footwell. image gets stuck between my legs.
I've tried everything from messing with the crossover freq's and slopes, time delays and tweeter mounting.- Status
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