diyAudio

diyAudio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/)
-   Car Audio (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/)
-   -   Rattleing mysterys on the Kicker L5 solved! (http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/car-audio/133210-rattleing-mysterys-kicker-l5-solved.html)

skooter 15th November 2008 03:00 PM

Rattleing mysterys on the Kicker L5 solved!
 
2 Attachment(s)
I have found the ratteling noise. aparently it happens offten according to a sterio shop I visited! I was not very impressed with the kicker sub. Had no problem taking whole thing apart! No rips tears or creases!!! I hair dryer for a little heat and a butter knife! Here is a pic of what I found. The glue used to hold the former to the flower cup as let go.

tsmith1315 16th November 2008 01:50 AM

Re: Rattleing mysterys on the Kicker L5 solved!
 
Quote:

Originally posted by skooter

The glue used to hold the former to the flower cup as let go.

Great job skooter! Persistance pays off.

Maybe a better adhesive would correct the problem and stay together for you? Can you clean off the existing glue?

MatthewS 16th November 2008 03:00 AM

Re: Rattleing mysterys on the Kicker L5 solved!
 
Quote:

Originally posted by skooter
I have found the ratteling noise. aparently it happens offten according to a sterio shop I visited! I was not very impressed with the kicker sub. Had no problem taking whole thing apart! No rips tears or creases!!! I hair dryer for a little heat and a butter knife! Here is a pic of what I found. The glue used to hold the former to the flower cup as let go.
Thats because your buddies over there in China don't understand the proper adhesives to bond that material properly, and even if they did, they don't properly prepare the surface for adhesion. Try and stay away from companies that don't have any intimate knowledge of the manufacturing process used for their goods. Plenty of build houses in America still, plenty of which make a good and reliable driver.

I built a pair of Subwoofers from scratch in my bedroom 7 years ago. They see 700 watts RMS daily, each, and I have had zero problems with them. If some dude can do that in his bedroom, there is no excuse for a failure like that from a manufacturer with paid engineers.

Joints should not fail and neither should tinsel lead wires.. we've come too far to continue to suffer these kinds of problems. If your seeing stuff like this from a companies goods, ditch them and never look back!

Rockford Fosgates new line is a prime example of this. The P series subs have weak spider risers that give way. Sometimes it's the glue, sometimes it's the composite piece itself! Rockford has a field strip warranty. Basicly you cut out the cone and send them the cone and they send your new woofer. Now why would a company release a new line, and not want to have entire drivers back when they fail? How are they supposed to critique the line? Make improvements? When I told them what happened they said 'We've never seen that before.' and I replied 'Thats because you don't see them at all!'

Move on to the T series.. they have bottoms! Why in gods name would anyone release a high excursion driver into the market, with that price tag, and it has a mechanical bottom? I should NEVER hear that voice coil hit bottom. This is a prime example of what speaker manufacturing should be well beyond by now. Hell if they want the mechanical bottom, at least install a shorting ring!

If I am not mistaken Henry Jensen patented the first loudspeaker in 1915? And almost 100 years later we still have tinsel lead breaks, mechanical bottoms, foam surrounds, and critical joint failures. In my humble opinion these things shouldn't exist anymore. Any company that produces a product with one of these issues should be avoided on grounds of sheer incompetence.

- Matt

djQUAN 16th November 2008 06:48 AM

Re: Re: Rattleing mysterys on the Kicker L5 solved!
 
Quote:

Originally posted by MatthewS
Move on to the T series.. they have bottoms! Why in gods name would anyone release a high excursion driver into the market, with that price tag, and it has a mechanical bottom? I should NEVER hear that voice coil hit bottom. This is a prime example of what speaker manufacturing should be well beyond by now. Hell if they want the mechanical bottom, at least install a shorting ring!
- Matt


not to mention that even if they are high excursion subs = move lots of air........ take a look at the holes where the rear wave is supposed to come out.... :dead:

audiomachines 16th November 2008 07:28 AM

glad you found the problem, its a good thing to sand a bit the ''to be glued parts'' that's what i do when repairing this subs.

shorting ring or braking coil

I have repair subs with braking coil, IMHO and from what i have experience it is never a good idea, they put to much to stress to the cone (I think its an old school RF SPP184)

Clipped 21st November 2008 04:48 AM

yeah take his advice and sand the parts down a bit, you need some texture for the glue/epoxy to grip.

skooter 22nd November 2008 04:38 AM

What glue on cone to flower cup
 
Tred exposie on the cone to theflower cup but came loose. Lookin at the brand SUPER-GLUE PLASTIC FUSE. sopost to work on poly plastic. Surfaces have been sanded with 80 grit and cleaned with alcohal.

Clipped 22nd November 2008 12:56 PM

if that doesnt work, look for 'primers' used with cyanoacrylate for polypropylene plastics.


All times are GMT. The time now is 11:20 AM.


vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2014 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2014 diyAudio


Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2