Orion 250 amp

mike49504 · 14th November 2008, 02:45 PM

Im working on an orion 250 amp. Someone did a eal hack job on the unit. SO im wondering what are the value of the gate resistors for the amp?? And what power supply fets do i need since the resistors and fets are missing off the board. Hers a pic of the amp so you know what series it is

Perry Babin · 14th November 2008, 09:58 PM

Can you post a photo of the inside of the amp (the power supply end)?

mike49504 · 15th November 2008, 11:32 PM

like i said someone did a real hack job on this unit. they took out the reisitors and used wire in there place, also put 2n6488's in the power supply section . so wondering if u can help? im wondering what power supply fets i need and what value resistors and what% they are? thanks for the help

Perry Babin · 16th November 2008, 12:49 AM

In that amp, they used 6488s in the supply. In most of their amps that used 6488s in the supply, they used wires or had the bases connected directly to the drive circuit (no resistor, no jumper wire).

There was another thread where someone was repairing one of these but I can't find it. Maybe someone else can find it for you.

ben04srt · 16th November 2008, 02:41 PM

Orion 225-HCCA

this is from a 225 hcca don"t know if the same , but you can see the board real well

mike49504 · 16th November 2008, 04:49 PM

Thanks Perry ill replace the 6488'sin the supply. I have antoher question on 1 side of the supply there are + and - marks on the board 2 of the locations are for the 317's and the 337t's what are the other 2 locations for? Im thinking diodes go there but what diodes do i need any help would greatly be appericared

Perry Babin · 16th November 2008, 05:40 PM

Are you sure that the regulators are supposed to be the 317/337?

If the center leg of the positive regulator and the first leg of the negative regulator are connected together and also connected to the shield ground, the regs are the L7815 and L7915.

There are lots of options for the rectifiers. If you're using the Motorola parts, the MUR1620CT is the positive rectifier. The MUR1620CTR is the negative rectifier.

mike49504 · 16th November 2008, 05:52 PM

ok they are connected together like i said someone hacked the amp and put differnt parts in. so they are all suppose to be 620 and 1620r 2 of each?

Perry Babin · 16th November 2008, 06:14 PM

2 are rectifiers. The other two (with the legs connected as I described) are the regulators.

mike49504 · 17th November 2008, 04:02 PM

the 317 and 337's are not connected together so im thinking thats what they are suppose to be.. wondering if anyone knows for sure if thats what belongs there? doesnt look like the solder has been messed with on the pads. thats why im thinking thats what belongs there

14th November 2008, 09:58 PM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Can you post a photo of the inside of the amp (the power supply end)? __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

16th November 2008, 12:49 AM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	In that amp, they used 6488s in the supply. In most of their amps that used 6488s in the supply, they used wires or had the bases connected directly to the drive circuit (no resistor, no jumper wire). There was another thread where someone was repairing one of these but I can't find it. Maybe someone else can find it for you. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

16th November 2008, 05:40 PM	#7
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	Are you sure that the regulators are supposed to be the 317/337? If the center leg of the positive regulator and the first leg of the negative regulator are connected together and also connected to the shield ground, the regs are the L7815 and L7915. There are lots of options for the rectifiers. If you're using the Motorola parts, the MUR1620CT is the positive rectifier. The MUR1620CTR is the negative rectifier. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

16th November 2008, 06:14 PM	#9
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	2 are rectifiers. The other two (with the legs connected as I described) are the regulators. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

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16th November 2008, 02:41 PM	#5
ben04srt diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Dover,ohio	Orion 225-HCCA this is from a 225 hcca don"t know if the same , but you can see the board real well

16th November 2008, 04:49 PM	#6
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	Thanks Perry ill replace the 6488'sin the supply. I have antoher question on 1 side of the supply there are + and - marks on the board 2 of the locations are for the 317's and the 337t's what are the other 2 locations for? Im thinking diodes go there but what diodes do i need any help would greatly be appericared

16th November 2008, 05:52 PM	#8
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	ok they are connected together like i said someone hacked the amp and put differnt parts in. so they are all suppose to be 620 and 1620r 2 of each?

17th November 2008, 04:02 PM	#10
mike49504 diyAudio Member Join Date: Sep 2006	the 317 and 337's are not connected together so im thinking thats what they are suppose to be.. wondering if anyone knows for sure if thats what belongs there? doesnt look like the solder has been messed with on the pads. thats why im thinking thats what belongs there

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