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Old 13th December 2008, 05:07 PM   #51
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Old 13th December 2008, 06:58 PM   #52
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Quote:
Originally posted by metaverse
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Did you get my email? It went something like this...

>>Do i need a 700w wiring kit with an ANL fuse? Since the sub will only be taking about 100watts RMS (says the sheet that came with it) could I use a smaller kit? Would I want to?<<

Given that amp being a high-current old school model, I wouldn't cut corners on wiring. Low voltage/lack of current is a sure way to roast transistors in those amps. As a reward, you'll have an amp that can last a lifetime with minor service.

>>Also as you can see in the last picture my buddy slapped on a piece of MDF in the middle where the sub will go - the mdf is facing the front of the car on the face of the board ... thoughts ?? It seemed like he was going more on logic than experience so i'd like to know if you guys feel that is a good choice or not ...<<

Structurally, that shouldn't matter. For ease of installation and service, you'll want to mount the woofer from the back. I assume that woofer is heavy , so t-nuts may make it an easier task.

For big woofers, I've also used ~3" long 8mm bolts fed from the front of the baffle. To do this, go ahead and secure the bolt in place with a nut and washer, it'll most likely clear the cutouts in the gasket on the front of the woofer with room to spare.


>>With the gap filling, there are a couple of spots where I think instead of using the foam, i'll just use layers of the tape stacked on each other along the face of the wheel well - than put the scribed pieces of MDF over them and then seal them up with tape on the outsides of the point where they meet ... ??<<

I can't quite get the visual, but it sounds fine. Don't drive yourself nuts over sealing things up. Remember this is roughly a 20 cubic foot enclosure. An inch or so here and there with a thick foam seat in front of it isn't that significant.

I'd save those details for later, after you've enjoyed it around for a while and feel like tweaking things to see what you can improve.

Please DO be sure that the factory speakers have an effective high-pass on them so the woofer will be doing the hard work.

I really am interested to hear about the results and your impressions of the system.
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Old 14th December 2008, 12:21 AM   #53
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Sorry about that , I had assumed you'd just respond here and the email I used to create this account isn't in use much these days ...

And just to clarify , I tend to learn like a 3 year old so I just want to double check on your response.

about the wiring = you're suggesting finding another 700w , 4gauge with ANL fuse kit ?

Could you clarify what you mean by mount it from the back? Because when you said you've used 3" 8mm screws fed from the front of the baffle I ran into some

I'll definetly be reporting back here and posting pictures once everything is secured
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Old 14th December 2008, 06:10 AM   #54
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Quote:
Sorry about that , I had assumed you'd just respond here and the email I used to create this account isn't in use much these days ...
It's too aggravating to post from the office, as I'm usually logged out of the forum before I'm finished typing... email is easier there. One day I'll take the time to figure out what's happening, but PC time is limited there.

Quote:
about the wiring = you're suggesting finding another 700w , 4gauge with ANL fuse kit
No smaller than 8 gauge for a 300W RMS amp. The Earthquake is likely to be current hungry, so go up a size for safety margin. In the future you may find yourself wanting to run it at 2 ohms, and you'd need a larger gauge then.

Quote:
Could you clarify what you mean by mount it from the back?
The baffle is in place, take the woofer in through the trunk and stick it up to the board. It's now on the back of the baffle.

Quote:
Because when you said you've used 3" 8mm screws fed from the front of the baffle I ran into some
That's just a method I found convenient in the past. I used 8mm because something we sold came with several long 8mm bolts, and we never used them. I still have a bag full 15yrs later.

Method:
- mark where the bolts (1/4", 3/8", whatever will fit the basket nicely) should be,
- drill holes just big enough for the bolt to go through (no slop),
- while sitting in the trunk, reach through the woofer hole and feed the bolt through from the seat side so that the threads are coming back towards you,
- put a washer and a nut on and tighten to hold the bolt firmly in place.

This way you have "studs" sticking out of the baffle. You just silde the holes in the woofer basket over the studs and twist a washer and nut on the stud.

Reasons for doing so:

-When handling heavy, akward woofers in the confined area, it helps to have both hands on the woofer while positioning it.

-If you're trying to hold the woofer in place with one hand and feed screws through the basket and into a t-nut with the other, it's aggravating.


**Gotta be very careful not to poke the surround with the stud while getting it into position.
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Old 19th December 2008, 12:19 AM   #55
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I ended up ordering this :
http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...roductID=20367

the only thing that has me and my novice mind slightly worried is this statement at the bottom:

"Designed for systems up to 600 watts" and i've got a high current 700w RMS earthquake amp ... should I be worried ??
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Old 19th December 2008, 04:37 AM   #56
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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That will work fine. If you plan on running it hard bridged at 4ohm in the future, it wouldn't hurt to add another 4 and run two in parallel, but 4 will work great for your sub. And the fuse holder looks like the mini wafer type in our kits, way better than the glass tube type. I would totally bridge the amp and not run one channel, the amp is designed to run 350rms bridged at 8ohms so you will be able to adjust it just right with the amp gain and deck eq to keep the power level low enough for your woofer.
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Old 20th December 2008, 03:11 AM   #57
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nice!

thanks for the input ppia
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Old 7th January 2009, 11:42 PM   #58
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PROGRESS!

well ... some progress ...

I've got the sub mounted to the baffle in the trunk with the battery wire, remote wire and rca's all run to their spots

BUT

The deck isn't hooked up because all these wires are doing my head in - LOL

Especially the wiring method that tsmith and ppia were helping me with in my other thread with pictures , explaination and questions here :

97 Maxima Bose system REmixed

please stop by, please lend a hand if you can
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