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Old 24th October 2008, 10:35 PM   #1
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Question Subs began to cut out

Hey all...Everything has been going great for quite a few months now, I have had no issues with my system, until today when I was coming home. I usually have my volume on my radio at 27 and all of a sudden when I was going down the road, I had no sound from my subs. I had fronts and rears but no subs. I turned off the radio and turned it back on again and the subs were playing again and they would play fine until you got to about 17-18 on the volume and they would stop playing again. I could then turn the power off and back on and they would do the same thing....play until about 17-18 on the volume. I didn't have anything touching anything to cut it out so I'm thinking it might be the subs or maybe the connections on the subs themselves in the box. Maybe something is touching behind the radio? I don't think that would be though as the whole system wouldn't play. The last time I had this issue, I had a 10" Kicker a few years ago and one of the channel coils under it was almost completely broken off, so if you turned up the power, from it moving, it wouldn't play. I'm hoping this is not the case here but it could be Just when I'm trying to save money and all something happens Go figure. Any possible suggestions? Amps are still working as they are on and the fuses aren't blown. Connections are tight and the speaker wire goes directly from the amp on the back of the box right to the terminals on the back of the box. It's only about 2 feet distance.
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Old 24th October 2008, 11:03 PM   #2
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If you have a separate fuse on the battery to the sub amp I would check it first. I have seen many fuses look ok but the connection under the metal ends can break and cause the amp to shut down because it canít handle the current. Also a loose connection or corroded terminals at the primary fuse will also cause this.

Also check to see if the ground cable is comming loose at the connection.
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Old 25th October 2008, 06:38 PM   #3
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Yeah, I checked out the ground wire for the amp this morning and noticed it was almost out of the ring crimp. When I pulled on it a little bit, it came completely out. So, I went up to the audio place and bought a crimp ring and got them to crimp it for me. I put the wire back on and went down the road but the same thing, it cut out at 18 or over on the volume. Oh well, atleast now I have a good ground crimped wire on the amp. Did some other tests as well:

I checked the voltage on the battery and it is good...putting out 14volts while running. 13V while off.

I checked the capacitor and it's getting power

I checked the fuses on the amp and under the hood, and no issues. The wire under the hood is good and tight.

I took a old Kicker 10" sub I had at home, and hooked up the speaker wires from the amp to the speaker after it had cut out and the speaker didn't move. So, I went ahead and turned the power off on the radio and back on again and the speaker was playing. Turned the volume up to 27 and it was playing no issues. Waited a while and it was still going. I then unhooked the wires from the 10" speaker and hooked them back to the box, and once it goes over 18 on the volume, it would cut out. So, I believe something happened to my speakers.

One of the audio guys at their shop said to use a voltage meter to check to see if the speakers weren't blown. To check the ohmage of the voice coils. If they were blown though, wouldn't they not work at all? I don't know how to use a voltage meter to read what ohms the speakers are. Any ideas how to do this? I can do this tomorrow morning.

A pretty big relief as I can deal with maybe getting more subs but a new amp or radio, is a bit more difficult on me right now. I would rather not have to get anything and save my money, but what can you do. Hopefully it's the speakers though.
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Old 25th October 2008, 10:59 PM   #4
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Any chance the V.C. lead wires are touching at high excursion, sending the amp into protection?

If it's physically possible for them to touch, you may want to insulate them just in case.
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Old 26th October 2008, 02:53 AM   #5
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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What brand of subs are they? Some brands suffer from premature tinsel lead breakage where the center stays connected but the tiny foil windings crack one by one. They can look relatively normal but stop playing randomly. Sometimes you can just push the speaker a little and they will start playing again.
Another problem it could be is that the sub's impedance is too low for the amp and may be sending it into protection temporarily. The fact that your kicker didn't cause a problem leads to this conclusion.
Also, what Tsmith says happens as well. There are several things it could be.
Can you read the impedance of the sub that is causing issues? Also, what is the impedance of the kicker that works ok?
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Old 27th October 2008, 02:26 AM   #6
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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I did some more testing this morning. I took out the subs from the box and everything looked fine...All wires intact and the voice coils were still clean with no breaks or anything. I tested each one by themselves. I took one and it worked over 18 volume, no issues. Next sub, it stopped over 16-18 volume. Even popped one time before stopping. Hooked back up the other one by itself again, and no issues. Appears that something happened to one of the subs so I kept the bad one out and put the good one back on. So, now I have to get 1 new sub which isn't bad as it's a lot cheaper than a new amp or radio. Atleast it had nothing to do with impedance. I'm just surprised...I thought JL Audio subs were more durable than this but I guess I got a bit of a defective one. Atleast it lasted almost a year and I figured out what the issue was

The 2 JL Audio 12W1V2 subs are 4 ohms and I have them wired in parallel at 2ohms.

The Kicker I tested is a 05C10 4ohm sub.
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Old 27th October 2008, 03:04 PM   #7
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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You have each sub wired at 2 ohms? How are they wired to the amp and what amp is it?
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Old 27th October 2008, 03:12 PM   #8
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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If one of the sub stopped working at that volume level then the sub is screwed up...So, it's not the amp

The amp is a Alpine MRP-M650...It only has mono outputs...

The subs are wired in parallel...+ from one terminal to the positive of the other one on the other sub, same for the -, and then it's connected to the terminals on the outside of the box.

Ordered a new sub today so I should be good to go later this week....
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Old 27th October 2008, 09:59 PM   #9
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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Oh, so each sub is a 4 ohm and you wired them to 2 ohms at the amp. I thought they were dual 4 wired to 2 and then connected to the amp, possibly at 1. Yeah, that amp is made to run a 2 ohm load with no problem so obviously the speaker.
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Old 27th October 2008, 11:54 PM   #10
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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I thought it was over with but the other is now doing the same thing. It stopped working totally when I was going down the road so I pulled into a parking lot and pulled down the seat to see if the amp had power and the light was very very dim and flickering. I looked at the fuse dist block I have and saw a small black spec. Looked closely and the dern thing blew a 30amp fuse!! Don't know what brought that on. I turned the radio back on after putting in another fuse and the power light was bright again and the sub began to play. Then, you get over 18, and it stops. I did a test with the 10" again and no issues. I guess it was finally time for this one to mess up as well. I'm beginning to question the power handling of them maybe?? Wondering if I should cancel my order and try and buy some new subs with a little more power handling??

12w1v2 stats per crutchfield:

12" 4-ohm subwoofer
metallic-finish polypropylene cone with nitrile-butylene rubber surround
power range: 50-300 watts RMS
peak power handling: 600 watts
frequency response: 22-200 Hz
sensitivity: 86.81 dB
top-mount depth: 5-1/8"
sealed box volume: 1.25 cubic feet
ported box volume: 1.75 cubic feet



Originally, JL Audio had said 150W RMS and 300W max. I called and talked to one of the Crutchfield tech guys and he said that JL Audio seriously underrated the subs and that they had gotten a notice that they were going to be changing the specs soon. Well, they did but I'm beginning to wonder I thought it was a perfect fit...600W RMS for 2 speakers...maybe not....

MRP-M650 specs:

mono subwoofer car amplifier
400 watts RMS x 1 at 4 ohms (600 watts RMS x 1 at 2 ohms)
variable low-pass filter (50-200 Hz, 24 dB/octave)
tuned Bass EQ (0-12 dB bass boost at 50 Hz)
subsonic filter (24 dB at 15 Hz)
MOSFET power supply
CEA-2006 compliant
STAR Topology (minimizes internal noise and prevents ground interference)
speaker- and preamp-level inputs
gold-plated screw terminals
fuse rating: 30A x 2
8-gauge amp wiring kit with 60-amp fuse recommended ó wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
12-13/16"W x 2-3/8"H x 9-9/16"D


Also have a 1 farad Rockford Fosgate Capacitor...
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