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hakentt 10th October 2008 03:51 AM

Help me fix Hifonics brutus BXi1206D
This amp burned up on me and I was not even pushing it at all. !Can you believe this, I bought this amp for $250 from the local store in february. Warranty on it is 1 year as it says on the box, and the store has return policy of 30 days, so I took it back to the store and they gave me the phone number to call the maxxsonics the company that ownes hifonics, and customer service there tell me they only accept warranties from just one store and that the store that sold me the amp does not exist in their vendors list.

So am screewd by these frauds and junk made in china amp that has american flag on the box a total fraud also. I fixed some MTX amps before an am up to the challange, Perry helped me last time.

I opened the amp and found that some FETs and resistors are shot. As you can see in these pictures: What could cause this?

also I have found some oil residue around these capacitors: is that normal?

Ok, now, is this all that I need to replace those FETs and those resistors?

Also those metal clips that press on FETs, how do they come off and on?

Perry Babin 10th October 2008 05:20 AM


You need to check the output FETs. All of the transistors on the opposite are probably outputs.

If the outputs failed, that's what caused the power supply to fail. If they didn't fail, a random component failure in the supply could have caused the supply to fail or there could be another problem like a shorted transformer.

hakentt 10th October 2008 06:21 AM

On the other side things look clean and new, no heat stress, visualy.

So simply replacing items that are visualy failed will not correct the problem.

If the outputs failed do you say that they could fail but visualy they wont burn like those?

Perry Babin 10th October 2008 06:45 AM

In most amplifiers, the only components that show signs of damage when they fail are the power supply transistors and the gate resistors. You generally only have visible signs of damage in the audio section in the really large amplifiers (3000W+).

To give the outputs a quick check, measure the resistance between the legs of the individual transistors. No transistor should have anything near 0 ohms between any of its 3 legs. If you find any that read 0 ohms, they (or a parallel connected transistor) has failed. You'd have to pull them to determine which ones have failed.

If you have any shorted output transistors, there may be damage on the driver board (vertical board near the two large black capacitors). To repair that board, it may take quite a bit of patience because you'd likely have to replace one or more of the surface mount transistors.

What's the number on that driver board, DWM0608?

hakentt 10th October 2008 07:18 AM

the board number is SOB-001-81, the transistors on the board look too small.
Am taking this appart tomorrow, and test those output transistors

Perry Babin 10th October 2008 07:34 AM

No, that's the power supply driver board.

The other one is the audio driver board. Does it look like this:

hakentt 10th October 2008 07:39 AM

Part number on that one is SOB-002-90

One more thing I smeled the amp burning, then I shut the car off then the next morning the car battery was dead, it means that power in the amp is shorted by those burnt FETs?

Perry Babin 10th October 2008 07:43 AM

It's possible that there was leakage through the blown FETs.

hakentt 10th October 2008 07:48 AM

I payed good money for this amp and it blew up on me by itself, am disapointed in this brand, the MTX 500d that you helped me fix still rocks hard solid base no problem.

How much do you think the components will cost me to fix this brutus?

Perry Babin 10th October 2008 08:14 AM

It depends on the part they're using for the outputs (assuming that the outputs failed). The power supply parts will probably be ~$12 plus shipping. You can use a mouser 844-IRFZ44PBF in place of the SFP parts.

The gate resistors are/were probably 47 ohm 1/4 watt.

Before you order parts, you need to remove all of the power supply FETs, clean all of the solder pads up so that there are no solder bridges and power up the amp. You should read ~5v on the side of the gate resistors farthest from the FETs. You probably won't read anything on the other side of a few of the resistors because some are burned and may be open. After replacing the resistors, you should read the same voltage on both legs of the resistors.

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