Here's what I'm working with:
JVC KW-AVX810 7" touchscreen, double DIN
Audiobahn 6.5" w/ 1" tweeter, crossover (purchased)
Audiobahn 6x9" components (purchased)
Audiobahn A8002T (to be used at 2x400W RMS)
Audiobahn A6004 (to be used at 4x75W RMS)
2 Boston Acoustics G51044 at 2 ohm config. (100-450W RMS)
2 Boston Acoustics 10GTR Tunable Radiators (purchased)
Capacitor (not sure on size)
4G is recommended for power to the amps. I'll use a distribution block for both power and ground. Should I use a larger gauge to run power to the distro block? Where should I wire in the cap? The total peak power with the two amps is 2800W, but I won't have them cranked.
I'm not completely set on buying these amps, but I'd like to stay in the same RMS output range. I'll try to answer any questions and I'm open for suggestions, thanks!
JVC KW-AVX810 7" touchscreen, double DIN
Audiobahn 6.5" w/ 1" tweeter, crossover (purchased)
Audiobahn 6x9" components (purchased)
Audiobahn A8002T (to be used at 2x400W RMS)
Audiobahn A6004 (to be used at 4x75W RMS)
2 Boston Acoustics G51044 at 2 ohm config. (100-450W RMS)
2 Boston Acoustics 10GTR Tunable Radiators (purchased)
Capacitor (not sure on size)
4G is recommended for power to the amps. I'll use a distribution block for both power and ground. Should I use a larger gauge to run power to the distro block? Where should I wire in the cap? The total peak power with the two amps is 2800W, but I won't have them cranked.
I'm not completely set on buying these amps, but I'd like to stay in the same RMS output range. I'll try to answer any questions and I'm open for suggestions, thanks!
I've tested those amps and they seem to work well, but I think that 8000 is class AB. If me I'd get a class D but at that power level I don't know if you must. With a class D on sub a 4ga to battery should run it fine, you are getting close with a class AB I guess it depends on if you will be running it hard. If not abusing it then no big deal or you can try it and see since I don't know exactly what amperage it will pull. I just like to look at class d above maybe 500rms because using less power is easier to deal with all the way around and I can spend wire money on other things, can get away with one battery stock alt and less headlight blinking/etc. at that near 1K total rms power level.
Wire the cap close as possible to sub amp. I don't like glass fuses in amp cables. Deaden the doors and/or put a baffle in them for better midbass. That would cover the basics of what I do for any system.
In fact I think I have an 8000 here that got little wet and the power terminals corroded, fell out of the board with my help. I should try to fix it the rest is fine. When I tested them the current draw was pretty low compared to others, but I did not have means to max them out at that time when I also fixed a few other ones. I didn't think they were bad amps for that price range though a little flashy. IIRC they have sanken 1694 outputs. The fan will wear out eventually after a lot of hours.
Wire the cap close as possible to sub amp. I don't like glass fuses in amp cables. Deaden the doors and/or put a baffle in them for better midbass. That would cover the basics of what I do for any system.
In fact I think I have an 8000 here that got little wet and the power terminals corroded, fell out of the board with my help. I should try to fix it the rest is fine. When I tested them the current draw was pretty low compared to others, but I did not have means to max them out at that time when I also fixed a few other ones. I didn't think they were bad amps for that price range though a little flashy. IIRC they have sanken 1694 outputs. The fan will wear out eventually after a lot of hours.
I'm not attached to any amp, I just liked the power range. I had also looked at Alpine V series amps. I'm looking for something that will power each sub at roughly 400W RMS, without having to strain to do so. If I were to use a mono amp and wire the subs in parallel, it should split the power equally between them, correct? I listen to mostly rock, jazz, indie, and a little rap here and there. I picked the Bostons for the clean sound and the ability to pound out the low end when I want to.
Yes parallel will split the wattage.
bcae1.com under wire shows this for max watts rms: size, amps draw, class ab, and d
4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts
That would give 1/2 volt drop in 15'. Providing you max out the amps of course. Should work for you.
I like the alpines, they are small. Seem to be built well but are china amps now like many others. I prefer older alpine for non-sub use but that is just me. I ran an mrp-m450 and it was tiny 400rms@2ohm class d amp, the larger 650 and 1000/etc are more expensive.
bcae1.com under wire shows this for max watts rms: size, amps draw, class ab, and d
4 awg 131 amps 1084 watts 1355 watts
That would give 1/2 volt drop in 15'. Providing you max out the amps of course. Should work for you.
I like the alpines, they are small. Seem to be built well but are china amps now like many others. I prefer older alpine for non-sub use but that is just me. I ran an mrp-m450 and it was tiny 400rms@2ohm class d amp, the larger 650 and 1000/etc are more expensive.
I have an Audiobahn A8002T amp which I am very pleased with. I've had it for at least two years, and would buy again if I had to do it over.
If you're looking for max output power, I'm not sure I'd choose this amp. It's a class AB, so with the installed fuses (60A) at 60% efficiency, you're looking at 520 watt RMS. These, along with most other amps have overrated power ratings. That's not to say they're bad, just choose a higher power model of you're *really* looking for the 800w RMS. 520w is still quite a bit of power though.
I had no trouble driving 2 ohm stereo loads, or 4 ohm mono. I even bridged it to a 2 ohm sub by mistake for several days, and didn't have a problem. They do get hot as a firecracker under lowest rated impedance if you don't have adequate ventilation. I have mine stuffed behind the rear seat of my truck where there is no airflow, and it goes into overheat shutdown after 20+ minutes of hard use. I never had problems with it overheating when it was installed in the trunk of my last car.
Also, 4 awg wire should be adequate for both amps. If you're going all out, use 3 or 2 awg.
If you're looking for max output power, I'm not sure I'd choose this amp. It's a class AB, so with the installed fuses (60A) at 60% efficiency, you're looking at 520 watt RMS. These, along with most other amps have overrated power ratings. That's not to say they're bad, just choose a higher power model of you're *really* looking for the 800w RMS. 520w is still quite a bit of power though.
I had no trouble driving 2 ohm stereo loads, or 4 ohm mono. I even bridged it to a 2 ohm sub by mistake for several days, and didn't have a problem. They do get hot as a firecracker under lowest rated impedance if you don't have adequate ventilation. I have mine stuffed behind the rear seat of my truck where there is no airflow, and it goes into overheat shutdown after 20+ minutes of hard use. I never had problems with it overheating when it was installed in the trunk of my last car.
Also, 4 awg wire should be adequate for both amps. If you're going all out, use 3 or 2 awg.
the subs are dual voice coil at 4 ohms per coil, that i'll use at 2 ohms per sub (coils in parallel). i'm leaning more towards a mono amp with the subs wired in parallel (2 ohm total impedance), . i could go with a 4 ohm setup, but i'll stick with 2 ohms to get more power out of the amp. if i wanted to be ridiculous i could get a 4 channel pushing 125W RMS to each voice coil, but i'd rather keep it simple. i'm looking for an amp that will deliver clean power with as little distortion possible, within a reasonable price. i've looked at alpine, boston acoustics, kicker, hifonics, and audiobahn amps; i'd like to stick with one of these unless there's an amazing manufacturer that i've overlooked.
If each sub is a 2 ohm load after the voice coils are wired parallel, wiring the two individual subs together to create a mono load is going to get you 1 ohm. That limits your choice of amps to ones that are 1 ohm mono stable-- Some advertise this but very rarely do they work reliably at 1 ohm mono. If you're going to go that route, I'd stick with a name brand. Orion HCCA-D2400 might be a good choice.
Your other option is to go with a 2-channel amp that's stable at 4-ohm bridged, or 2 ohm stereo. These will generally be class AB-- Tons of options out there. Some budget brands that would serve you well are Power Acoustik, Lanzar, Hifonics, just to name a few.
Your other option is to go with a 2-channel amp that's stable at 4-ohm bridged, or 2 ohm stereo. These will generally be class AB-- Tons of options out there. Some budget brands that would serve you well are Power Acoustik, Lanzar, Hifonics, just to name a few.
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