|
|||||||
| Home | Forums | Rules | Articles | Store | Gallery | Blogs | Register | Donations | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read | Search |
|
Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.
Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving |
|
![]() |
|
|
Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
#1 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
|
I've had problems with power to my amp. I'm getting around 1.5 ohms resistance from the ground point to the negative battery terminal. I don't know what the problem is. Any suggestions?
|
|
|
|
|
#2 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
Is the battery in the front of the vehicle and the ground point in the rear of the vehicle?
If so, what did you use to extend the meter leads?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
|
|
#3 | |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Anonymityville
|
Quote:
__________________
"If you don't like funerals don't kick sand in Ninja's face." - Ninja |
|
|
|
|
|
#4 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
|
It's a truck so just the test leads. What is the best way to test the resistance of the test leads?
|
|
|
|
|
#5 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
Touch them together.
Subtract what the meter reads with the leads touching from any resistance readings. It's unlikely that you have 1.5 ohms (or any significant resistance) from the body of the vehicle to the battery negative. With that much resistance, the truck wouldn't start and the lights would be really dim. Why do you think there's a problem with the ground?
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
|
|
#6 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2006
|
At one point, it read 40 ohms but I fixed that problem. I just wanted to make sure it was correct.
|
|
|
|
|
#7 |
|
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
|
For all but the worst ground problems. using resistance is not useful. The current an amp can draw can cause a significant voltage drop across a resistance that's lower than you can easily measure with a standard multimeter.
It's better if you measure the voltage from a known good ground (bare meta near the ground point of the amplifier) to the ground terminal of the amp. Measure the voltage at high power. The voltage between the known good ground and the ground terminal of the amp should be absolutely minimal. You can do the same thing at other points (battery to body, engine block to firewall...).
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
|
|
![]() |
| Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests) | |
| Thread Tools | Search this Thread |
|
|
Similar Threads
|
||||
| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
| Chassis Grounding and rectifiers | Captn Dave | Tubes / Valves | 7 | 10th January 2009 05:46 PM |
| chassis grounding question | mnr102 | Solid State | 2 | 12th July 2008 09:14 AM |
| Grounding chassis | borges | Analog Line Level | 1 | 16th March 2007 08:58 AM |
| Grounding SPDIF and Outputs to Chassis? | mfr | Digital Source | 1 | 25th May 2004 07:05 AM |
| Grounding chassis | Per | Multi-Way | 1 | 17th December 2002 10:21 PM |
| New To Site? | Need Help? |
| Page generated in 0.09253 seconds (76.32% PHP - 23.68% MySQL) with 10 queries |