wedge box vs square box

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Usually not. For home speakers this is an issue due to standing waves and whatever, but a sub is typically below frequencies that happens at. Otherwise an odd shaped box is better as it offers less reflection inside but in a car sub it should not matter. If you get some kind of resonance in a sub box most attribute that to weak construction. I should add I have read you should not make a perfectly square box in all three dimensions (H, W, & D), but never had that happen with a box I made for a car anyway.
 
Are you making one in a car like the spare tire well or something? Most lay those in otherwise you can make the baffle and a frame for shape, use some kind of cloth or stretch hose over it and glass it up. Look around there are how to pages for that stuff. They often bondo the visible areas to smooth them.
 
fiberglasing!!!

if building a removable box, start with 3 pieces of 3/4" mdf. the bottom of the box and the back of the box, the 3rd piece being the mounting ring. attach the back plate and bottom with screws,brads,or wood glue. Then get some wooden dowel rods to attach the back/bottom to the ring, Best to hold up the ring at the angle you desire while having a friend measure for dowel length,I usually use 3 dowels to attach ring depending on size & weight of driver. Use dowel rods thick enough to put screws through but NOT thicker than mounting ring! after resin dries the dowel rods should be removable so that they are not sacrificing box volume. Now you need to get some fleece (old navy hoodies are great if doing small box on poor man budget). Strech the fleece around the whole box starting at the mounting ring, stapling down to the mdf every few inches, be sure to keep the fleece as tight as possible when stapling. Now comes the fun part... Get some resin(Napa auto parts has the 5 gallon buckets cheapest), Origional Bondo none of that bondo+resin mix stick with regular ol' body filler, and you'll need some fiberglass mat material(woven sheets of glass that give you splinters n stuff so wear gloves)

Now that you have your box fleeced and ready for glass, mix up your resin a little bit at a time because it dries fast. Spread the resin on with a large paint brush(have several brushes handy, you'll go thru a bunch before your box is done) let the first coat dry. Mix up more resin but this time a decent bit, pour it into a metal paint tray(resin eats plastic)and now you're going to dip the mat material into the resin and lay it on the outside in small patches covering the whole enclosure except the mdf areas you just need a little overlap to ensure that the cabinet is sealed. Once thats dry fill a mixing cup with half resin half bondo and stir that till the bondo gets kinda runny add your MEK catylist and grab another paint brush, lay that on pretty thick and pour some inside the box & swish it around to cover the majority of the inside.
If using an entry level woofer you can probably start sanding, if using a heavy woofer add another coat of mat material, and a few more coats of resin/bondo mix.
Knoch out the dowel rods and sand for several hours!

If you are doing a non removable enclosure... I've yet to do that so I hope someone else posts a detailed description of how they took molds and how they attached the fleece and to what!
Hope this was of some help to someone and I'll try to answer any questions if there are any problems.
 
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