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Old 26th September 2008, 12:26 AM  
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2008
Default Orion 275XTR noise

If you would like to have your XTR275 serviced contact robotunderground@yahoo.com, they have serviced several amplifiers for myself as well as my customers and always get the job done right, NO switching out for cheaper parts.

As far as the Rockford 360.6 goes I just installed one last week! It's running 2 Cadence 6.5" components front & rear and an Audiobahn 15" sub. This amp is WAY under rated at 30 watts x 6. I highly recommend this amplifier for SQ, in an every day driver application!!!
Old 26th September 2008, 12:35 AM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Thanks for the info Travis -- I appreciate it.

I'll keep the repair shop in mind, but I'm really just trying to fix this out of interest in amplifier design and repair, and electronics in general. It's too nice of an amp to leave it unused, but if I somehow destroy it in this attempt I'll count it as tuition towards my education ;-)

Perry -- thanks for jumping in on this thread. I followed the links in your sig -- I have use your site before as reference...nice to have your help here! Come payday (tomorrow), I'll order your amp repair tutorial -- it's the least I can do for all the work you've put into the free information on your site and the help you provide on this forum.
Old 26th September 2008, 02:49 AM  
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
I would expect both of the non-bridging wires to be directly connected to the shield of the RCA input jacks.

If you only use the right channel, do you have noise?

If you connect a jumper between the non-bridging speaker terminals, does that reduce the noise level?

If someone else here has a similar amp that they're not using, please measure the resistance between the input RCA shields and the non-bridging speaker terminals to see if there is essentially 0 ohms between them.
Old 3rd October 2008, 03:26 AM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Probably foolishly, I had already begun removing and replacing capacitors, so I wasn't able to test one channel vs the other wrt to noise.

All electrolytic caps carefully replaced (no major issues to report), the amp powers on but no speaker output on either channel. Heh...on to the next problem!

I'll do some additional testing and post more information when I have it.
Old 6th October 2008, 08:57 AM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
I'm now reading essentially 0 ohm from rca shield to R+ and L-

Not sure if changing caps made the difference or if I was just not getting a good connection with my probe on the L- measurement previously.

Still not getting *anything* out of the speaker leads -- not sure where to begin with that since it was working before I swapped in new caps. I'm just now getting into Perry's tutorial (highly recommended!), so hopefully I'll be able to stand on my own two feet a little better in the coming weeks.

Thanks for all the help!
Old 6th October 2008, 09:14 AM  
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
The first hing you need to do is confirm that you have supply voltages on all of the ICs and output transistors.

The 8 pin op-amps should have positive 15v on pin 8 and negative 15v on pin 4. The 14 pin op-amps should have +15 on pin 4 and -15 on pin 11.

If this amp has an 18 pin IC in a socket, it should have 5v on pin 14.

Does this amp have a similar set of chips as the 600.4?

The folder is

Double-click the file

If possible send me a set of photos for it.
Old 7th October 2008, 05:36 AM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Here's the board in its entirety.
Click the image to open in full size.

Not a great picture, but the best I can get at the moment.

The three opamps, two are 4562D and the one closest to the top of the picture is a 5532D. Input voltage is 12.35V, 5532D reads -14.18 at pin 4, and 14.73 at pin 8. 4562D both read -14.07 at pin 4 and 14.62 at pin 8.
Old 7th October 2008, 08:06 AM  
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
Do you have the modules or jumper boards in place under the top cover?
Old 7th October 2008, 06:39 PM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
They are in place, although you bringing this up made me focus on that area. The configuration of the modules and jumpers was essentially the factory configuration, except with a single jumper on the middle pair of pins. According to the manual, this jumper activates summed mono operation.

After removing this jumper, the amp works fine on the bench -- I get sound out of each channel and out of the bridged channel. Installing the jumper cuts all speaker output once again. So it looks like there's some problem with the circuit responsible for internally summing the signal.

I'll install this in the car and see if the work done so far fixes the noise problem I was having originally.
Old 8th October 2008, 12:44 AM  
jbrooke is offline jbrooke  United States
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Still some noise when installed in the car, although now I can eliminate the noise by jumpering the RCA shield to one of the non-bridging speaker out terminals.

I'll pull it out and take apart the rca connectors to see if I there's a problem with them. Any idea where replacement parts can be found? I can rebuild the 4-RCA block, but I would rather buy a new one if it there's a source for them.


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