Power Acoustik Amp Help

22chet · 15th August 2008, 01:23 AM

I hooked up my 1600w power acoustik amp yesterday and turned the key to see if it would turn on and sure enough it did. the only bad thing is my speaker wires were touching and blew something in the amp. I have pictures of what is blown i was wondering if this could be replaced. the other speaker output works fine.

I have figured it out to be a FET. with number IRFZ44N so i ordered some and was wondering if it is as straight forward install as it seems ? Im going to replace all 3 of them on that side.

Perry Babin · 15th August 2008, 07:05 AM

There are 6 on that side. All 6 need to be replaced.

You also need to check the two 2SA1266 driver transistors near those FETs.

Is there soot on the other side of the board across from the blown FETs? If so, is that from a previous failure or are those FETs blown also?

It's possible that the output transistors have failed. They are the larger transistors in the amplifier. If you read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor, the transistor (or one in parallel with it) is shorted and will have to be replaced. If one of 3 (4?) with the same part number has failed, all of the ones with the same number in that channel will have to be replaced.

jeff_macon · 22nd February 2009, 01:03 AM

maybe you can help me bro..my LT1920/2 is broken..the same part that your amp burned up, mine are just broke..did you find the parts for your online or what..i've asked PowerAcoustik's parts and tech department but they are like "you bought it, it's your problem now." Can you tell me where I can find the FET's like you had to replace in yours? Thanks..I'm attaching a pic of one of the FET's I need..thanks again

Perry Babin · 22nd February 2009, 01:13 AM

If they're using IRFZ44s:
http://octopart.com/search?q=IRFZ44NPBF

jeff_macon · 22nd February 2009, 01:33 AM

well, they are IRFZ44N's and they have a few other numbers on there like 415K under the IRFZ44N and 5H and OB under that..is there a difference?

Perry Babin · 22nd February 2009, 01:36 AM

The other numbers are date/production codes. The 'IRFZ44N' is the part number. The PBF on the end of the part number means that it's lead free. Otherwise it's essentially the same.

jeff_macon · 22nd February 2009, 10:05 AM

if your amp works now after you put the new FET's in then it can't be that difficult..this is actually my first repair

jeff_macon · 22nd February 2009, 10:05 AM

i owe you one fella..thanks again!!

15th August 2008, 01:23 AM	#1
22chet diyAudio Member Join Date: Aug 2008	Power Acoustik Amp Help I hooked up my 1600w power acoustik amp yesterday and turned the key to see if it would turn on and sure enough it did. the only bad thing is my speaker wires were touching and blew something in the amp. I have pictures of what is blown i was wondering if this could be replaced. the other speaker output works fine. I have figured it out to be a FET. with number IRFZ44N so i ordered some and was wondering if it is as straight forward install as it seems ? Im going to replace all 3 of them on that side.

15th August 2008, 07:05 AM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	There are 6 on that side. All 6 need to be replaced. You also need to check the two 2SA1266 driver transistors near those FETs. Is there soot on the other side of the board across from the blown FETs? If so, is that from a previous failure or are those FETs blown also? It's possible that the output transistors have failed. They are the larger transistors in the amplifier. If you read anything near 0 ohms between the legs of any individual transistor, the transistor (or one in parallel with it) is shorted and will have to be replaced. If one of 3 (4?) with the same part number has failed, all of the ones with the same number in that channel will have to be replaced. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

22nd February 2009, 01:03 AM	#3
jeff_macon diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009	maybe you can help maybe you can help me bro..my LT1920/2 is broken..the same part that your amp burned up, mine are just broke..did you find the parts for your online or what..i've asked PowerAcoustik's parts and tech department but they are like "you bought it, it's your problem now." Can you tell me where I can find the FET's like you had to replace in yours? Thanks..I'm attaching a pic of one of the FET's I need..thanks again

22nd February 2009, 01:13 AM	#4
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	If they're using IRFZ44s: http://octopart.com/search?q=IRFZ44NPBF __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links

22nd February 2009, 01:36 AM	#6
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	The other numbers are date/production codes. The 'IRFZ44N' is the part number. The PBF on the end of the part number means that it's lead free. Otherwise it's essentially the same. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair * Basic Car Audio Electronics * New Site * Basic Switching Power Supply Design * Basic Computer Skills << Links


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22nd February 2009, 01:33 AM	#5
jeff_macon diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009	well, they are IRFZ44N's and they have a few other numbers on there like 415K under the IRFZ44N and 5H and OB under that..is there a difference?

22nd February 2009, 10:05 AM	#7
jeff_macon diyAudio Member Join Date: Feb 2009	if your amp works now after you put the new FET's in then it can't be that difficult..this is actually my first repair

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