If you've removed any of the clamps from the transistors, replace then and tighten the screws.
Remove the fuse from the distribution block (or at the battery, if you don't have a distribution block).
Remove the 3 30 amp fuses and install one 15-20 amp fuse.
Make the power connections and replace the fuse in the distribution block.
If the single fuse in the amp holds, turn on the head unit (or otherwise apply 12v to the remote terminal). If the amp powers up and the fuse doesn't blow, the amplifier is probably OK.
If the fuse blows, disconnect the RCA cables and the speaker wires from the terminal block on the amp. If it still blows the fuse, the amp is probably damaged.
If it only blows the fuse when the RCAs are plugged in, the RCA shield on the RCA jacks may be broken. If it only blows the fuse when the speakers are connected (volume set to minimum), check the speaker wiring.
It's normal for it to spark once or twice when you're reconnecting power but after making contact a few times, it should no longer spark.
When connecting the amp, it's good practice to remove the fuse from the fuse block feeding the amplifier. That will prevent damaging the amp if the power wire contacts something it shouldn't.
Remove the fuse from the distribution block (or at the battery, if you don't have a distribution block).
Remove the 3 30 amp fuses and install one 15-20 amp fuse.
Make the power connections and replace the fuse in the distribution block.
If the single fuse in the amp holds, turn on the head unit (or otherwise apply 12v to the remote terminal). If the amp powers up and the fuse doesn't blow, the amplifier is probably OK.
If the fuse blows, disconnect the RCA cables and the speaker wires from the terminal block on the amp. If it still blows the fuse, the amp is probably damaged.
If it only blows the fuse when the RCAs are plugged in, the RCA shield on the RCA jacks may be broken. If it only blows the fuse when the speakers are connected (volume set to minimum), check the speaker wiring.
It's normal for it to spark once or twice when you're reconnecting power but after making contact a few times, it should no longer spark.
When connecting the amp, it's good practice to remove the fuse from the fuse block feeding the amplifier. That will prevent damaging the amp if the power wire contacts something it shouldn't.
With your multimeter set to ohms and no power applied to the amp, measure the resistance between the legs of the individual output transistors (large 3-legged devices clamped to the heatsink). If you read anything near 0 ohms between any of the legs of any individual transistor, it's likely defective.
If none read near 0 ohms, try a single 20 amp fuse. The older MTX amps drew a lot of current turning on but I don't remember them blowing 15 amp fuses. If the amp blows a 20 amp fuse, it almost certainly has a problem.
If none read near 0 ohms, try a single 20 amp fuse. The older MTX amps drew a lot of current turning on but I don't remember them blowing 15 amp fuses. If the amp blows a 20 amp fuse, it almost certainly has a problem.
MTX MXA 8001 help
I have an old MXA 8001 That comes on but dont put out any signal.......I had looked into fixing it several years ago but never did actually fix it and i believe it was one or more of the things that are clamped to the heat sink tested out of spec but i cant remember for sure.
I have an old MXA 8001 That comes on but dont put out any signal.......I had looked into fixing it several years ago but never did actually fix it and i believe it was one or more of the things that are clamped to the heat sink tested out of spec but i cant remember for sure.
Same amp guess we can pick up where we left off ten years ago lol.....I had forgotten that i ever posted about it and also didnt remeber that it was blowing the fuse....exspains why theres only one 20 amp fuse in it after read back. I did remeber that it was one of the transistors that tested bad tho. How did this new post wind up in my old thread and what are the chances that the same person from 10 years ago would reply again lol.
Ill re test the transistors and get the numbers off of them and see how to go about getting new ones.....What sparked my interest again in getting it fixed was the fact that i got my 15 year old mtx thunder 7500s back and they stilll kickin even with one having a bullet hole in the cone and this amp is the perfect match for them. Called mtx and they said they wouldnt fix it for me
Ill re test the transistors and get the numbers off of them and see how to go about getting new ones.....What sparked my interest again in getting it fixed was the fact that i got my 15 year old mtx thunder 7500s back and they stilll kickin even with one having a bullet hole in the cone and this amp is the perfect match for them. Called mtx and they said they wouldnt fix it for me