i double and triple checked for bad solder and i cant find anything visiably or with my beeping continuity tester.
it looks like someone else tried swaping out the U102 you can see the so-so solder job on the legs of it. i suspect it failed and thats what caused the splatter.
the cap at C118 looks fine and has continuity across it and there is another on the other side of the heat sink, location C119 it has continuity aswell and looks the same.
and the piece at D102 looks fine.
when i put full voltage to it now, it just forces my power supply into shutting off. but it powers up with resisted power.
it looks like someone else tried swaping out the U102 you can see the so-so solder job on the legs of it. i suspect it failed and thats what caused the splatter.
the cap at C118 looks fine and has continuity across it and there is another on the other side of the heat sink, location C119 it has continuity aswell and looks the same.
and the piece at D102 looks fine.
when i put full voltage to it now, it just forces my power supply into shutting off. but it powers up with resisted power.
i pulled both little caps and the main voltage is being drawn down still. after the caps are out they both measure at .01 ohms.
i am going to order parts for the other amps i am working on. should i order anything for this amp at the same time? how do i know what part number to use to replace the capacitor i put the picture of? its just really small and brown there arent any numbers on it
i am going to order parts for the other amps i am working on. should i order anything for this amp at the same time? how do i know what part number to use to replace the capacitor i put the picture of? its just really small and brown there arent any numbers on it
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