Memphis 16-PR1KD amp repair help (pix) - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 16th August 2008, 10:45 PM   #11
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Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: Lafayette, Louisiana
I am glad that I found this post because my Memphis 16-PR1.5KD stopped working yesterday too. It powers up, but emits a high pitch whine through the subwoofer. I guess the transistors popped off of mine, so I am going to pull it and see.

At least one of my friends is an electronics geek and has a soldering station.... I just hope this is an easy fix.
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Old 2nd November 2009, 02:02 PM   #12
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Join Date: Nov 2009
hi i'm new to the site and i'm fixing the same amp. so whats the best thing to do? try getting new old parts or upgrading to the new P/N? i figure upgrading would be the best because any future repairs would be easier to replace the parts, so what do i need to do to do the upgrade?
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Old 2nd November 2009, 08:47 PM   #13
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
In the last few I've repaired, I used IRF3415s.

There is a row of 8 driver transistors near the outputs. I'd recommend replacing all 8 of those. Use MPSW42s in place of the MPSA42s. You should also add clip-on heatsinks (attached image) to the W42s.

Check the two resistors marked 471 (R114, R115). They often open.

Many of the SMD transistors will have bad solder connections. You should desolder them with braid and resolder their connections.

Check transistors Q118, 119, 120, 121 and 122 out of the board. Check on both diode check and on ohms to determine if any have any reverse leakage. If you don't know how to check them, let us know.

These amps have a lot of bad solder connections. Many times it's difficult to remove enough of the old solder to produce a reliable connection. If there are transistors with solder connections that need to be repaired, you should remove the transistor, add additional, new solder and desolder from both sides of of the board. Liquid or paste solder flux can make the work on these amps a bit easier.

When desoldering, never allow the tip of the soldering iron to touch the solder pads (most are already damaged and are easily lifted). Apply enough solder so you can heat the solder on the pad without touching the pad. A desoldering pump will be less likely than desoldering braid to cause damage.

If there is any question as to the condition of the via (copper feedthrough) in the board, solder both top and bottom when reinstalling the transistors.

To help keep the board from being further damaged from heat, you should install the transistor so their body is well off of the board. If the board shows signs of heat damage, the transistor likely runs hot under normal operating condition and should have a clip on heatsink.
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Old 3rd November 2009, 03:13 AM   #14
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is there anything else i should replace? what were you talking about with the resistor values?
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Old 3rd November 2009, 03:40 AM   #15
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
Try replacing the driver transistors and any transistors that are leaking or are otherwise defective. Resolder all of the resistors and transistors that need it. Replace any defective resistors. If it fails to oscillate, then you may have to try changing the values of some of the resistors.
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Old 24th April 2012, 08:07 AM   #16
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