I'm working on a JBL Crown BPX1100.1 amp that looks like it had reverse voltage applied to it. the input terminal has marks on it from arcing. all of the irf3205 power supply fets were fried along with all of the outputs from one side of the amp. i replaced all of the p/s fets and bad outputs and i checked the drive transistors and they seem to check ok for the p/s and outputs. now when i hook up power and ground only i get no high current but when i apply remote voltage the blue protect light flashes and the ammeter on my bench supply spikes on and off and it even causes my test head unit to cut on and of. the user maunal for the amp sais that a flashing protect light means that there is a short circuit in ther speaker wires. i had no signal going into the amp and no speakers hooked up during this initial test.
i guess i'll look closer at the output side of the board for shorts but i was hoping someone here might be able to give some suggestions or lead me in the right direction.
Also, does anyone have a service manual handy for this amp?
i guess i'll look closer at the output side of the board for shorts but i was hoping someone here might be able to give some suggestions or lead me in the right direction.
Also, does anyone have a service manual handy for this amp?
Look for 1 ohm resistors connected to the driver transistors (may be on the bottom of the board). Check each one after removing the defective driver transistors. Many times they open.
Also look for defective 12v Zener diodes. If you don't find any that appear to be defective, measure the DC voltage after the amp is powered up to make sure each one has ~12v across it. Sometimes they leak and the voltage is significantly lower than normal. This can cause the outputs to run hot and fail.
Also look for defective 12v Zener diodes. If you don't find any that appear to be defective, measure the DC voltage after the amp is powered up to make sure each one has ~12v across it. Sometimes they leak and the voltage is significantly lower than normal. This can cause the outputs to run hot and fail.
Don't think I have seen a JBL. All brands mid and cheaper, just see them...care could be a factor. Some the plastic under the terminal was melted a little, some had some moisture or something spilled on them, others just had a bad connection and got hot/burnt a little. Have seen it inside the lug type also, and the plastic cover on lugs melted like in Perry's site or CD shows.shagone said:
none of the diodes seem to be open or shorted and all of the 1 ohm resistors seem to check fine. the drivers seem ok too but could be leaky i guess?
when i power the amp up through my 2ohm current limiting resistor the blue light is steady and the ammeter on my supply stays around 5 amps. after less that a minute if i remove power there is one power supply fet that is very hot and everything else is still cold. could this be the problem? it does not read shorted in the board but i guess it could be leaking. should i change it out? i do have a few irf3205's left.
when i power the amp up through my 2ohm current limiting resistor the blue light is steady and the ammeter on my supply stays around 5 amps. after less that a minute if i remove power there is one power supply fet that is very hot and everything else is still cold. could this be the problem? it does not read shorted in the board but i guess it could be leaking. should i change it out? i do have a few irf3205's left.
Is the gate resistor for the hot transistor within tolerance?
If you measure the resistance between the gate leg of the hot transistor to the gate leg of a parallel transistor, do you read 2x the gate resistor value?
If the answer is yes to both of those questions, you can try changing out the transistor. The most likely reason it's getting hotter is that it's turning on a little more quickly than the others.
If you measure the resistance between the gate leg of the hot transistor to the gate leg of a parallel transistor, do you read 2x the gate resistor value?
If the answer is yes to both of those questions, you can try changing out the transistor. The most likely reason it's getting hotter is that it's turning on a little more quickly than the others.
I'm stuck. i pulled the first p/s fet that was getting hot but it was fine and all of the gate resistors were fine. i guess i'll start checking individual resistor values. i looked for shorted diodes and transistors and found none. i checked a few caps but not all yet.the amp still pulls high current and i can't seem to find out why? what else could it be?
Perry Babin said:
-No.
-About 4-5 amps with the 2 ohm limiting resistor in the circuit.
Do you know what the output part numbers should be? i want to verify that i put in the correct parts. the old parts had a coating over them making it hard to read values even after scraping them clean and rubbing sync grease on them.
Does the current draw drop if you pull the transistor that's overheating?
Have you checked the PNP driver transistors in the power supply?
The service manual has IRF9640, IRF31N20 and IRF31N50 for the output transistors but I'm fairly sure that IRF9640 and IRFB31N20D are the correct part numbers.
Have you checked the PNP driver transistors in the power supply?
The service manual has IRF9640, IRF31N20 and IRF31N50 for the output transistors but I'm fairly sure that IRF9640 and IRFB31N20D are the correct part numbers.
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