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Old 27th April 2008, 03:49 PM   #1
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Default Need help with car sub and amp choice

Help, my son has a 97 civic with a basic in-dash cd player (no line out). We'd like to build a sub for it. I do have some experience, not a lot building speakers. I'm leading towards, but not set on Dayton drivers as I have used them in the past with good results. He's not to worried about the size of the box, but he would like to be able to remove it for autocross racing. Also, being a kid he is more concerned with load deep bass than acoustic accuracy (he cranks the bass all the way up now). He listens to hip-hop His friend has 2-12s sony explodes with sony amp from BB, I told him I thought we could do better.

Here are some of the questions I have.

Recommendation for budget drivers, 2-10s or 2-12s. I'm not sure how well 2-12s will fit.

Is it feasible to hook this up to his current stereo?

What's a decent budget amp to use with this? I really don't know what is any good these days.

Thanks for the help.
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Old 28th April 2008, 02:37 AM   #2
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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a 97 civic can be a hard car to get the bass to flow through, the upper rear deck as well as backseat are sealed off really well from the cabin of the car.

id use 2- 10" in a bandpass box with the ports firing through the rear speaker holes...or...if you want to retain the rear speakers cut a hole through the middle of the rear deck and fire through.

check out FI subwoofers or the budget line of DDaudio...subs that are the same price of major name brands, but better quality.

American Bass also has amps and subwoofers.
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if youre really on a budget a good but cheap sub is DHD.

dont go cheap on the amp, get atleast a 1000 watt class d amp.

theres so many amps out now, i dont know where to start.
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you can use a line level adaptor on the factory radio to get rca signals...you can install the line level adaptors at the rear speaker wires....see how it works first.

your also going to need another amp to drive the front speakers.

make sure both amps have crossovers built in.
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Old 28th April 2008, 12:40 PM   #3
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My suggestion is actualy a single 15". Yeah, they are a little bit more expensive, but they hold up better to the high excursion type bass that hip-hop/rap uses.

For size restrictions, sealed is the way to go...

As far as brands, SoundStorm and SPL are both pretty good, and on the cheaper side for subs. Obviously, for rap, you can't go wrong with a Kicker, but they tend to be a bit pricey (but it makes up for it by not having to radius a cut for the speaker in the box)

DONT skimp on the amp, 1000w minimum for rap, since the bass used is the more penetrating/felt type, as apposed to the heard type.

And for connecting it to the HU, a line level converter is what you're gonna need (I think thats the correct term, been a while.) Basically it just connects to the rear speaker wires, and coverts their signal to a type usable for the input on the amp. Some will allow you to keep speakers connected, some wont, you'll want to watch out for that.

And when building the box, I usualy go with 3/4" LDF (Roofing material). Good solid wood, but on the cheaper side, about $20 for a 4x8 sheet (which will be more than enough). And for conveniance, make the box where the top/bottom and front/back are a little longer than needed, then inset the sides. Gives you a nice handle to grab onto when pulling the box out, say, for autoXing.
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Old 29th April 2008, 06:06 AM   #4
luka is offline luka  Slovenia
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Hi

Quote:
more expensive, but they hold up better to the high excursion type bass that hip-hop/rap uses.
?? my 12" doesn't have any bigger excursion then same model 15". Only Diffrence is 15" can play lower, while my has to be tuned a bit higher, so that is doesn't have to big excursion.

And sbrunkow, I think one sub will be enough, it has to be good, probably some good brand, no made in china cheap, cheap stuff

And don't go for sony or similar, you can do better...being from states, you have Fi car audio, Digital designs,... I'm sure you can get it al much lower price then I did here

For amp don't look at 1000w that are writen on top...that is most of the time max power and not useful to you.
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Old 29th April 2008, 04:23 PM   #5
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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A 15 will have more db because it has more cone area, compared to the same 12 (or similar built/etc). It does not need to move as far to do same job as 12. You will need a pretty good 15 for that power, look at RMS power and ignore anything else. Also you will need to note the ohms of the sub, if single or DVC, and what the amp you get needs to run at. Some class d run at 4 or 2 ohm, some down to 1 ohm...depending on wattage you want to run and what sub can handle. You can find brand name class D 1Kw RMS for around 100 used if you have a budget.
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Old 30th April 2008, 06:24 AM   #6
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99% of the amps I have seen, including most low end amps, are 2 and 4 ohm stable.

You really wont have to worry about 1 ohm stable. 1 ohm is really for when you want to start doing SPL comps, because that's the only way to pull every last bit of juice out of the amp... And any sub you buy, no matter if it's dual voice coil, single or whatever, is gonna alow you to run at at least 2 ohms...


Did anything I just wrote even make sence?

Anyway. My guess, for this application, would be a single sealed 15 at 600w RMS should do the trick just fine.

Dont ask me about brands because my idea of good brands does not seem to be widely accepted.
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Old 30th April 2008, 12:28 PM   #7
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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you HAVE to get an amp that is designed for the ohm load that the speakers represent.

if you get an amp that is rated for full power at 1 ohm mono, but only present a 2ohm load, you will only get half the power.

if you get an amp that is rated at 2 or 4 ohm mono, but present a 1 ohm load...the amp will fail in time, 1 ohm is a tougher load.
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Old 30th April 2008, 02:26 PM   #8
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Thanks for the help everyone, this gives me some direction. Any recommendations on brands of amps to look at, or avoid?

Thanks!!!
Steve
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Old 30th April 2008, 06:40 PM   #9
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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when you decide on a few brands, look up 'ampguts' on a google search...you can comnpare the board layouts...and may actually find that alot of brands use the same boards....

then do a search on this board , if you see alot of repair post regarding that amp, thats NOT a good sign.

Crunch seems to be improving quality at a lower cost these days.

Some well designed amps with class distinction are ZED amps, they design for other companies, but have started their own line. You can order direct from them...little pricey though.

get something with a warranty...
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Old 30th April 2008, 07:03 PM   #10
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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Depends on your budget and if you want new or used. I hesitate to list brands, there are so many and I don't have use experience with most. Some cheap amps look like a 3yr old soldered the board. I'd recommend you stay away from the cheap brands and buy better used for low dollar purchases, IMO. Unless someone here can recommend some...I do agree there are budget amps out there that work well and do have reasonable build quality, I wish there was some discussion about it. I'd call acceptable brands budget amps, maybe maxxonics (hifonics/crunch/etc), kicker, audiobahn maybe, kenwood, newer alpine mrp, hard to say since I have not used many in a car.

The really cheap amps often don't put out rated power or list useless peak numbers and durability is troublesome. Some cheaper brands do have a better line, the lanzar opti is considered to be a better amp than their cheap ones for example and you can see it in the price.

I worked on a major store brand and still found broken parts in it from assembly, that kind of stuff happens with cheaper amps even if they work well when all the parts are working. One had half of one PS was broken off from inserting the board in the sink. One of the 'best' electronics stores sells them, but they seem to work ok when they are put together right. Again I just tested them not used in a car.

If you go used you might score say an mtx , RF, or something like that.
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