I'm tendando to repair the amp SPL Dinamics ext-3000D, I had to reconstruct the entire power by replacing all IRFP064N is pilotaggi 2sa1275 transistors and other components, rebuilt part because board went to fire! wings all ok, a problem also found in secondary 4 final IRFP360LC short only that I can not finding is replacing with IRFP360 but nothing goes into protection led green then red, tolgo line end where I added the final 4 audio is always the same I realize that warms the pre-pilot that these integrated smd installed 7 +7 pin (symbol carteggiata how do I go back to its value) on bassetta the tolgo is finamlmnete only part that makes a sound type frying is I realize that the integrated pre 4556D warms a lot but I do not know where to buy it, the problem is to know the code dell'integrato sanded welded on basseta you know the code! then there are also two integrated covered by black resin but I suppose they are good!
modul DWM3640nhv_v30 , I serve the value of U2, U1 production for what it says IRF, I also know that opamp mount since they canceled resin is placed above
His clones with the same chassis:
hifonics Goliath GX3000d
Ground zero GZPA 1.5000 SPL
E-Audio 3000D
American Bass VFL 200.1
modul DWM3640nhv_v30 , I serve the value of U2, U1 production for what it says IRF, I also know that opamp mount since they canceled resin is placed above
His clones with the same chassis:
hifonics Goliath GX3000d
Ground zero GZPA 1.5000 SPL
E-Audio 3000D
American Bass VFL 200.1
Help SPL dinamics Est-3000 failure
May 7th, 2008, 3:58am Quote
Help SPL dinamics Est-3000 failure , i try circuit diagram plate driver board DWM360NHV_v30 .
I found component failures is the key for'm trying to make repairs? I have already changed the final sull'ali IRFN064n is the final audio IRFP360LC I lack to repair the module pilot of IRFP360LC
link amp:
http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/...ics_EXT-3000D/
Linking photos module to be repaired :
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk186/michelespl/05-05-08_2202.jpg
clones amplifier model:
. American Bass VFL 200.1
. E-Audio 3000D
. Ground Zero GZPA 1.5000SPL
. Hifonics Goliath GX3000D
I need to know value components driver board U1, U2, CL1, Cl4, R9, R36, U3, U4
The IC have the values I just erased a certainty U1-U2 is that if IR21844S or mistake;
I R9-R36 is not burned reads more value, Cl1-Cl4 short, I have already changed 16 IRFP064N is I have to change 12 IRFP360LC but I must first repair driver board
May 7th, 2008, 3:58am Quote
Help SPL dinamics Est-3000 failure , i try circuit diagram plate driver board DWM360NHV_v30 .
I found component failures is the key for'm trying to make repairs? I have already changed the final sull'ali IRFN064n is the final audio IRFP360LC I lack to repair the module pilot of IRFP360LC
link amp:
http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/...ics_EXT-3000D/
Linking photos module to be repaired :
http://i280.photobucket.com/albums/kk186/michelespl/05-05-08_2202.jpg
clones amplifier model:
. American Bass VFL 200.1
. E-Audio 3000D
. Ground Zero GZPA 1.5000SPL
. Hifonics Goliath GX3000D
I need to know value components driver board U1, U2, CL1, Cl4, R9, R36, U3, U4
The IC have the values I just erased a certainty U1-U2 is that if IR21844S or mistake;
I R9-R36 is not burned reads more value, Cl1-Cl4 short, I have already changed 16 IRFP064N is I have to change 12 IRFP360LC but I must first repair driver board
U1 and U2 were probably IR21844S but I've been using IRS21844S. Either will probably work.
CL1 and CL4 are 4.7uf (measured) but I don't know the voltage rating. I think they're probably 16v components bu you should order the highest voltage for the package size. I think the datasheet for one of the driver ICs recommended ceramic caps for this application so that's what I'd use. If possible, use a cap with a COG or NPO temperature coefficient.
U3 is a TL072C
U4 is an LM211
Check the voltage suppressors (Black diodes - D210, etc?) near the base of the driver board. They often short.
Post car amp repair questions in the car audio forum. This forum is generally for design and troubleshooting of DIY amps and amp modules.
CL1 and CL4 are 4.7uf (measured) but I don't know the voltage rating. I think they're probably 16v components bu you should order the highest voltage for the package size. I think the datasheet for one of the driver ICs recommended ceramic caps for this application so that's what I'd use. If possible, use a cap with a COG or NPO temperature coefficient.
U3 is a TL072C
U4 is an LM211
Check the voltage suppressors (Black diodes - D210, etc?) near the base of the driver board. They often short.
Post car amp repair questions in the car audio forum. This forum is generally for design and troubleshooting of DIY amps and amp modules.
I measured power U3 and is u4 +-5V; your ic have posted as power -+15V .
you have the key driver of the board you? the values that you are giving me concern for the board DWM3640NHV_V30?
Cl1, cl4 what:
http://it.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...CQLCIPZLTQ?N=1000226+130066&_requestid=142013
you have the key driver of the board you? the values that you are giving me concern for the board DWM3640NHV_V30?
Cl1, cl4 what:
http://it.farnell.com/jsp/search/br...CQLCIPZLTQ?N=1000226+130066&_requestid=142013
Those are the correct ICs.
I would have expected to see them powered by a ±12 or ±15v supply but they'll work from lower voltage. The boards are often marked with the part number of the regulator. If you follow the power supply circuit from the IC to the regulator, does the board indicate that the regulator should be 5 volts instead of 12 or 15v?
R34 and R35 are 10k.
You'll have to select the capacitor.
I would have expected to see them powered by a ±12 or ±15v supply but they'll work from lower voltage. The boards are often marked with the part number of the regulator. If you follow the power supply circuit from the IC to the regulator, does the board indicate that the regulator should be 5 volts instead of 12 or 15v?
R34 and R35 are 10k.
You'll have to select the capacitor.
I don't have any suggestions that would prevent this damage in the future. Most of these amplifiers are destined to fail due to poor design. Other than using the proper fuse, running it into a safe ohm load and NOT mounting it to the speaker enclosure, there's not much you can do to prevent it from failing.
When you replace the power transistors, it's VERY important that you get them soldered in properly. The through-holes are larger than is needed for the leads. This means that the transistor can be soldered in ±0.02 (approximately). This may not seem like much but with this design, it makes a big difference. If they are not soldered into the board in precisely the correct position, they will be either too far from the sink or too close to the sink. If they're too close, it will tear the insulators when you slide it back in. If it's too far from the sink, the spring clips won't have enough pressure to force the transistors to lay flat on the sink.
Try to find a moderator to move this thread to the car audio forum. There are a lot of helpful people here but they probably don't have a lot of experience with these amps.
When you replace the power transistors, it's VERY important that you get them soldered in properly. The through-holes are larger than is needed for the leads. This means that the transistor can be soldered in ±0.02 (approximately). This may not seem like much but with this design, it makes a big difference. If they are not soldered into the board in precisely the correct position, they will be either too far from the sink or too close to the sink. If they're too close, it will tear the insulators when you slide it back in. If it's too far from the sink, the spring clips won't have enough pressure to force the transistors to lay flat on the sink.
Try to find a moderator to move this thread to the car audio forum. There are a lot of helpful people here but they probably don't have a lot of experience with these amps.
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