JL AUDIO 250/1 idle current

Pioneer621 · 24th April 2008, 09:34 PM

Hello everybody!

Is 1.47 AMPS typical current draw at idle on a JL AUDIO 250/1. It is not my amp I am taking a look at it for someone. They wanted me to test it out & see if it is working properly, so I am. I tried powering it up through a current limiting resistor since I do did not know the working condition of this amp, but it just kept turning on & turning off as the voltage drop with the resistor inline was to much, so I just installed a 10-AMP fuse inline then powered it up & kept an eye on the current draw & it sits at 1.47 AMPS while idling & seems to play music fine when a signal is applied, just want to make sure that’s about normal for these amps. Almost forgot to mention that the ground terminal on the amp looks a little melted inside & the metal connector looks slightly lower than the positive terminal, but I did not take the amp far enough apart to see if the solder is still holding strong, should I check that out? Take Care. Pioneer621

Perry Babin · 24th April 2008, 10:12 PM

I've never measured the idle current but 1.5 amps doesn't seem excessive. If it sounds OK and it's not running hot, it's likely OK.

If the terminal block is lower, it's pulled loose from the board. Generally, they pull loose when the solder overheats. This is generally due to operating the amp without sufficiently tightening the terminal block. You need to repair it. If you don't repair it, it's possible that the connection will overheat and damage the board beyond repair.

To get it hot enough, you'll need a large soldering iron or a small torch (don't try to use a large propane torch). Clamp a large hex key (allen) driver in the block and heat the block until you can move it back into the correct position. Then re-solder the connections.

Pioneer621 · 24th April 2008, 10:31 PM

Thank You Perry Babin. That was exactly what I needed to know. I will repair the terminal block as you described. I do have a small torch type soldering iron kit that works well, it has a few different tips, plus you can remove the tips & use it as a small torch for soldering and it does work well, so that should do it fine.

Thanks again for the info! I will remember to make sure the terminal block screws get tightened sufficiently. Take Care. Pioneer621

24th April 2008, 09:34 PM	#1
Pioneer621 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	JL AUDIO 250/1 idle current Hello everybody! Is 1.47 AMPS typical current draw at idle on a JL AUDIO 250/1. It is not my amp I am taking a look at it for someone. They wanted me to test it out & see if it is working properly, so I am. I tried powering it up through a current limiting resistor since I do did not know the working condition of this amp, but it just kept turning on & turning off as the voltage drop with the resistor inline was to much, so I just installed a 10-AMP fuse inline then powered it up & kept an eye on the current draw & it sits at 1.47 AMPS while idling & seems to play music fine when a signal is applied, just want to make sure that’s about normal for these amps. Almost forgot to mention that the ground terminal on the amp looks a little melted inside & the metal connector looks slightly lower than the positive terminal, but I did not take the amp far enough apart to see if the solder is still holding strong, should I check that out? Take Care. Pioneer621

24th April 2008, 10:12 PM	#2
Perry Babin diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Louisiana	I've never measured the idle current but 1.5 amps doesn't seem excessive. If it sounds OK and it's not running hot, it's likely OK. If the terminal block is lower, it's pulled loose from the board. Generally, they pull loose when the solder overheats. This is generally due to operating the amp without sufficiently tightening the terminal block. You need to repair it. If you don't repair it, it's possible that the connection will overheat and damage the board beyond repair. To get it hot enough, you'll need a large soldering iron or a small torch (don't try to use a large propane torch). Clamp a large hex key (allen) driver in the block and heat the block until you can move it back into the correct position. Then re-solder the connections. __________________ Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links

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24th April 2008, 10:31 PM	#3
Pioneer621 diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2007	Thank You Perry Babin. That was exactly what I needed to know. I will repair the terminal block as you described. I do have a small torch type soldering iron kit that works well, it has a few different tips, plus you can remove the tips & use it as a small torch for soldering and it does work well, so that should do it fine. Thanks again for the info! I will remember to make sure the terminal block screws get tightened sufficiently. Take Care. Pioneer621

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