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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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31 (~±15) is OK.
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Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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Okay, I figured it wasn't coincedence that 15+15 was basically 30.
WE HAVE AUDIO! Dude, I am stoked. I am going to reassemble it without the 5th channel. I never used it and need this amp for my fiance's car. Thanks so much man! I can't thank you enough. Evan EDIT; I am placing an order to mouser anyway so Ill get outputs and drivers. Might as well fix it while its apart!
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Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If you have to pull the drivers, look at the ends of the legs on the transistors. If there are burrs on them, cut them with a sharp pair of flush cutting pliers to remove the burrs. Apply additional solder to the legs and lay your iron across all 3 legs (so the solder will melt on all of them at the same time). Then pull the transistor. Don't try to desolder each individual leg. You're likely to damage the board. If you don't have any flush cutters, buy a pair of Xcelite 170M cutters.
Mouser probably won't have the 2SA1381 and 2SC2503 driver transistors. You can get them from MCM Electronics. Also check the 1.3k and 1.33k ohm resistors on the driver board. I've seen those fail also.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks for the tip.
I do have flush cut cutters, worth their weight in gold! I have been looking for a reason to call MCM anyway. Evan
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Yeah... it seemed like a good idea at the time. |
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