my wife's Suv (lexus RX330) has the factory mark levinson sound system that uses 6X9 subs in the front doors. the system is actually very nice for OEM. it blows the doors off of any stock Bose system. after the warranty is up i might look into modding it a bit with different drivers but i may have a hard time improving on it. maybe some dynamat extreme on the doors and some foam behind the 6X9's would help. they hit the low bass well at times but rattle the door panels at high volumes.
I have boston sx 5x7 comps and have the SQ guys tell me any oval speaker is junk, lol. 6x9 can rule in a car imo, though other drivers can work well also. I can't get the bass out of these, not fully sure if its the amp or deadening and too cold to find out. Not sure what I will do with it, either deaden more or change out to something else. I was going to hack some old 6x9 infinity I have into the rear doors, but maybe should try in front as they might fit.
Seems like now you put big power speakers in with a big amp, then you DSP it to sound right. The 99% of people out there without a good tuned DSP wonder why it does not sound that good. You force it instead of finding things that naturally work right in that app. I really want to try 8s, but there is no place in my little car. Nothing can go in dash and kicks hardly exist, and I want stealth. I could get some 6x9 with articulating tweeters, that would help...if they fit.
Seems like now you put big power speakers in with a big amp, then you DSP it to sound right. The 99% of people out there without a good tuned DSP wonder why it does not sound that good. You force it instead of finding things that naturally work right in that app. I really want to try 8s, but there is no place in my little car. Nothing can go in dash and kicks hardly exist, and I want stealth. I could get some 6x9 with articulating tweeters, that would help...if they fit.
speaker said:
i did set it up like that a few days ago - but then it did sound a bit flat.
here's the problem: my amp has a switch where you can turn the bass on\ off or leave it as is - as well as a frequency setting for the filters.
when i set the bass off and max out the gain, it sounds really good, just a bit thin like i said. however, if i turn the gain down and turn the bass boost on i can get more than enough bass (from the sub) but it doesn't sound as natural.
The infinity I have are older coax, they have foam on the cone sort of...lol. I bought them new way back. Some of that stuff was on last year, have not looked at speakers lately though.
I never use boost unless I have weak bass at the frequency it comes in. I have a parametric now and that is nice. But I do set my subs up hot; they will put out more than high side in case I get a CD with really weak bass....I must have the bass. But I have control of the amp from the front anytime and adjust gain often.
I never use boost unless I have weak bass at the frequency it comes in. I have a parametric now and that is nice. But I do set my subs up hot; they will put out more than high side in case I get a CD with really weak bass....I must have the bass. But I have control of the amp from the front anytime and adjust gain often.
i am still thinking of building the subwoofer parametric eq on Rod Elliott's webpage - as well as adding a pot for volume and putting that up front in the car. its a pretty simple circuit so it shouldn't give any problems - just need to remember to get that stuff next time i am at the electronics store 
Well i have been listening to all different types of music the past few weeks and have noticed that the bass does sound pretty natural most of the time - but there are a few songs with tons of bass and then u start to hear the sub. i think i have it set up just about as good as i can with my current setup.
Well i have been listening to all different types of music the past few weeks and have noticed that the bass does sound pretty natural most of the time - but there are a few songs with tons of bass and then u start to hear the sub. i think i have it set up just about as good as i can with my current setup.
i have been listening to my system some more and now i am thinking of using the ams for all my speakers - especially considering it won't cost me a thing to do! i do not have the best mids in the world but i haven't got money to replace them, so i will live with what i have.
this is my plan:
-put the 2ch 250W amp in the trunk with the 4ch ('cos the wiring is there)
- have the sub running bridged off 2 channels of the 4ch amp, low pass filter on.
-hook the front speakers up to the other 2 channels of the 4ch amp, high pass filter on
- use the high level input of the 250W amp and connect to the output of the 4 ch high frequency side, that way all 4 speakers will have a high pass filter on them.
i just need to know if i can hook the high level input of the 250W amp to the output of a 500W amp - without any explosions or problems. oh yes and if you have any better ideas pls share.
thanks
this is my plan:
-put the 2ch 250W amp in the trunk with the 4ch ('cos the wiring is there)
- have the sub running bridged off 2 channels of the 4ch amp, low pass filter on.
-hook the front speakers up to the other 2 channels of the 4ch amp, high pass filter on
- use the high level input of the 250W amp and connect to the output of the 4 ch high frequency side, that way all 4 speakers will have a high pass filter on them.
i just need to know if i can hook the high level input of the 250W amp to the output of a 500W amp - without any explosions or problems. oh yes and if you have any better ideas pls share.
thanks
Speaker input is never a good idea, and worse off of an amplified signal that may be too strong for it. You can do it one way or another, but the quality suffers in near every case. Note the special signal processors they have now to connect to factory systems trying to make this work. IMO if you don't want to get another amp with a HP in it, then you would be better off with say a used coustic crossover for that amp. They can be had on ebay for reasonable and I'm told they have good quality for low price. Many others would work too, I'd guess even a cheaper brand would be better than speaker inputs. Near any model will HP. You could Y the RCA or use the crossover to split RCA to amps if you don't have another HU set. Just my .02, but active crossover and all RCA level input is the way to go for a minimum of quality. You may end up with cruddy sound, more distortion, often you can't even max the amp out because of poor quality input. Junk in = even louder junk out because an amp amplifies distortion too.
Yes I have to have sub level and prefer LP control from the driver seat. Different CDs have bass levels that change too much for my liking...and the more powerful your subs the worse it seems to match up.
Yes I have to have sub level and prefer LP control from the driver seat. Different CDs have bass levels that change too much for my liking...and the more powerful your subs the worse it seems to match up.
Jol50: thanks for all your help and advice, but i have another project i am busy with that also needs an amp, so i am rather going to use the 2 ch in that project. at the moment i am pretty happy with my system in the car - it does what it needs to so i will leave it as is for the moment.
Life is all about compromise - especially when you are a student!!!
Life is all about compromise - especially when you are a student!!!
I hear you, but you can always put together systems on the cheap. Just shop a lot, it is more fun for me. I finally bought a new amp last year and thought it would work great....now it is coming out of the car. It works, but not like I want. Actually I don't remember ever buying a new amp in my life before that....and that one was a factory refurb.
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