What problems are there with using house speakers in the car? I understand problems with heat, and possibly the movement of the car?? But are there any other problems? I know all the woofers/mids will need boxes, while car speakers normally aren't mounted in boxes.... Cos, I looked at SUPER DUPER car speakers... and.... $300 for a pair of 6.5inch splits and crossovers... 
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Not really a problem, car audio speakers are normally 4 ohm or less. They just have to survive extreme heat/cold and vibration condition that you have in the car. Some component speakers will actually benefit from mounting them in sealed or ported enclosures, it just depends on how drastic you are willing to go.
SkinnyBoy said:
Heat, vibration, and things falling on them - grills are a must.
A friend I know has been using regular 6" woofers and 3" cone tweeters (yuk!) in his car for over seven years now. The same set. No issues.
So long as you're careful with driver selection (outdoor speakers) you should be just fine. I myself used a similar system in my earlier car for over six years. Due to much poorer driver quality of the day, I had to replace every year or so...
I expect polypropylene cones would be better than paper ones, especially where there is moisture present sometimes, like inside a door. Also rubber surrounds rather than foam, especially if exposed to direct sunlight.
Some 2 element car speakers are incredibly silly. They have the tweeter mounted on an extension of the woofer centre polepiece and so they don't / can't use a dustcap. Anyway, the entire woofer cone when facing upward, works like a funnel, directing dust and grit and junk down into the voice coil gap!
Some 2 element car speakers are incredibly silly. They have the tweeter mounted on an extension of the woofer centre polepiece and so they don't / can't use a dustcap. Anyway, the entire woofer cone when facing upward, works like a funnel, directing dust and grit and junk down into the voice coil gap!
Circlotron said:I expect polypropylene cones would be better than paper ones, especially where there is moisture present sometimes, like inside a door. Also rubber surrounds rather than foam, especially if exposed to direct sunlight.
Some 2 element car speakers are incredibly silly. They have the tweeter mounted on an extension of the woofer centre polepiece and so they don't / can't use a dustcap. Anyway, the entire woofer cone when facing upward, works like a funnel, directing dust and grit and junk down into the voice coil gap!
Yes, rubber... foam doesn't like the Australian climate anyway..
You know what... I never even THOUGHT of that, but that is SUCH a good point... there is no way I am going to buy car speakers like that, that is, if there are any NOT like that..
Speakers like that also have a hole in the magnet bottom. The hole is easily opened using a screwdriver. This also removes the center polepiece, and allows one to both clean the speakers using a vacuum cleaner, as well as add a dustcap and dispose entirely of the poor quality mid and treble unit, and you have a fairly good quality 6x9 or 6 1/2 woofer to work with. Biamping and high quality dome mids and tweeters come to mind...
Sorry, also forgot, some of the newer breed have started to use sponge pads to somewhat protect the coil from getting grated to pieces by grit. Not particularly effective, though. Pioneer also 'extends' the coil so it somes out of the end of the cone, creating a small 'ledge' in which dust and dirt can lodge. Not very effective either, but both better than nothing.
In any case even house speakers will not last very long in a car anyway, unless they're built strong. I strongly urge looking at outdoor drive units rather than delicate stuff like TBs, Audax, (insert your favourite high-end speaker). We mostly use RS type of stuff - no major heartache for the loss, and once the car begins to move, the road noise and tyre noise take over the job of the bass guitarist anyway, so why use expensive stuff in there?
In any case even house speakers will not last very long in a car anyway, unless they're built strong. I strongly urge looking at outdoor drive units rather than delicate stuff like TBs, Audax, (insert your favourite high-end speaker). We mostly use RS type of stuff - no major heartache for the loss, and once the car begins to move, the road noise and tyre noise take over the job of the bass guitarist anyway, so why use expensive stuff in there?
Circlotron said:
Some 2 element car speakers are incredibly silly. They have the tweeter mounted on an extension of the woofer centre polepiece and so they don't / can't use a dustcap. Anyway, the entire woofer cone when facing upward, works like a funnel, directing dust and grit and junk down into the voice coil gap!
Cloth Grilles? Come on guys....
Car audio speakers are designed with space saving in mind, so you can build a ported box that is only 1-3 cubic feet and get the extension down to 20hz or below. Many sealed boxes have 12's in them, are ~1 cu. ft., and can play flat down to 20hz in a car. Take a look at the polk MOMO subwoofers.
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Oh and those sponge pad's melted on a pair of jbl's I had but didn't effect the sq at all. The paper cones are almost always coated with waterproofing/stiffening/damping materials.
feel free to use whatever speakers you like in a car. I looked extensively around madisound and partsexpress and zalytron before picking speakers. I ended up going with Morel MDT29 tweeters in the kickpanels playing from 2000 to 20000hz and Illusion Audio ND8's in the doors playing from 2000 down to 60hz. 60hz and below is done by an ADS 312rs.2 sub in the trunk. I also had madisound design a passive crossover for me between my Morel MDT29's and a 4" audax carbon fiber midrange I bought a pair of. The freq response graphs they did are impressive, and sound great.
Pics and details can be seen at my webpage:
www.sounddomain.com/id/mach_y
Pics and details can be seen at my webpage:
www.sounddomain.com/id/mach_y
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