Free-air midbass

ECM · 11th February 2008, 10:09 AM

I bought a 1996 honda civic sedan and am thinking about installing an audio system in it.

My question is about the midbass drivers. My plan is to install a 6.5" component set up front (Kicker R6 Resolution). The rear parcel shelf has 6X9 openings in which I want to install some Kicker Freeair 6.5" speakers using MDF adapter rings.

However, I also plan on installing a sub in the trunk. Since the midbass drivers are free air, I will need to seal off the trunk, but if I do that, then my sub will suffer.

What is the best way to implement this?

sdoom · 11th February 2008, 10:58 AM

If it is possible build some small housings for the mid range drivers. Youc an achive that by using MDF sheets or resin and mats or some fine fence. Also use a high - pass filter for the mid range driver or an amplifier with a built in crossover network. Most of the times the mid range systems do not have a high pass filter in the stock filter-assembly.

ECM · 11th February 2008, 12:15 PM

Yes, I thought about building some sort of enclosures for them since Kicker also recommends ported enclosures.

Since I also have a 4" component set, I thought about putting the 6.5" in the doors and kick mounting the 4" set. There isn't too much room in the kicks though.

Maybe a 6.5" in the doors and a HLCD under the dash. Maybe I can sell off some of my audio stash and pick up some horns.

Clipped · 11th February 2008, 12:23 PM

Hey! can you mount the midbass in the rear doors?

i did an iasca car last year and mounted the midbass under the dash pointing down on each side...sounded great and the stage forward.

in another car i put an 8" midbass in the passenger footwell close to the firewall.

ECM · 11th February 2008, 12:54 PM

Why didn't I think of that!

The rear doors do not contain speakers, but I'll take a look under the dash this afternoon. I also have an 8" square solobaric. It would be nice to stuff that sucker under the passenger side dash.

BTW, I received two 225 boards in the mail today.

Clipped · 11th February 2008, 01:28 PM

an 8" solo upfront would be awesome man, for midbass it wouldnt require much airspace either.

you only get the bare boards? no heatsink? heck maybe you can mount both of them in that spare 2150sx heatsink....the rca ends may stick out though.

mounting the components in the kicks is what id do if you have time...imaging is alot better and the stage moves forward nicely.

an easy way to do it is to use 6"- 8" pvc and cut them at an angle (for kicks), with the speakers mounted in the round part not the slanted part.... you could even use the pvc for the midbass enclosures.

'sometimes' you can use the grill ring and epoxy it to the pvc and just mount the speaker....

Eva · 11th February 2008, 02:13 PM

Don't use rear speakers, they spoil any chance of stereo imaging.

jol50 · 11th February 2008, 06:38 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Eva
Don't use rear speakers, they spoil any chance of stereo imaging.

Everyone says that but I can't get enough midbass out of my front doors, and that is really the only place in this little car to mount mids. With rear doors it fills in better and stage is still forward with them dialed back. Now I am beating the front stage and it can't get it on. It does need more deadening in the front doors that would help, but I don't think enough.

I had junk in back and one blew so I turned them off, and it is suffering without them. They are same distance to my head as fronts, and door panel is such that they aim low and little treble comes to front from them. I'm really thinking of hacking in some larger spare 6x9 I have for more upper bass. Also I can turn them up and it sounds way better when listening outside the car. They are only about 1-1.5' behind my head in the car and mounted low.

For that car IMO if you run rears use 6x9 for sure to get more midbass, put a sturdy enclosure over them that will stop the sub sounds/pressure from beating on them. In old large cars with open/unsealed trunks sometimes you can get away with it, the 6x9 will not move with the bass if you test for it.

shagone · 11th February 2008, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by ECM
I bought a 1996 honda civic sedan and am thinking about installing an audio system in it.

My question is about the midbass drivers. My plan is to install a 6.5" component set up front (Kicker R6 Resolution). The rear parcel shelf has 6X9 openings in which I want to install some Kicker Freeair 6.5" speakers using MDF adapter rings.

However, I also plan on installing a sub in the trunk. Since the midbass drivers are free air, I will need to seal off the trunk, but if I do that, then my sub will suffer.

What is the best way to implement this?

read this thread about issues in the same type of car:

Not happy with my bass response

jol50 · 11th February 2008, 08:43 PM

I didn't think of it but if you don't need huge bass and want SQ, you could run free air (IB) subs on the rear deck. 6x9, 8, or best 10" subs in the deck usually sound great. With a good set of comps properly installed in front you should have nice sound. You can't knock over buildings with one set of small subs IB, but they can produce great sound and get low with the most trunk space left. If you have reason to do exactly what you are asking, then I would say put an enclosure over the back of the mids in the deck, and see if you can remove some sound insulation in the seat back or vent it. That seems to be an issue with these cars stopping the sub from getting through.

11th February 2008, 10:09 AM	#1
ECM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Cyprus	Free-air midbass I bought a 1996 honda civic sedan and am thinking about installing an audio system in it. My question is about the midbass drivers. My plan is to install a 6.5" component set up front (Kicker R6 Resolution). The rear parcel shelf has 6X9 openings in which I want to install some Kicker Freeair 6.5" speakers using MDF adapter rings. However, I also plan on installing a sub in the trunk. Since the midbass drivers are free air, I will need to seal off the trunk, but if I do that, then my sub will suffer. What is the best way to implement this?

11th February 2008, 02:13 PM	#7
Eva diyAudio Member Join Date: Oct 2003 Location: Near the sea	Don't use rear speakers, they spoil any chance of stereo imaging. __________________ I use to feel like the small child in The Emperor's New Clothes tale

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11th February 2008, 10:58 AM	#2
sdoom diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Heidelberg	If it is possible build some small housings for the mid range drivers. Youc an achive that by using MDF sheets or resin and mats or some fine fence. Also use a high - pass filter for the mid range driver or an amplifier with a built in crossover network. Most of the times the mid range systems do not have a high pass filter in the stock filter-assembly.

11th February 2008, 12:15 PM	#3
ECM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Cyprus	Yes, I thought about building some sort of enclosures for them since Kicker also recommends ported enclosures. Since I also have a 4" component set, I thought about putting the 6.5" in the doors and kick mounting the 4" set. There isn't too much room in the kicks though. Maybe a 6.5" in the doors and a HLCD under the dash. Maybe I can sell off some of my audio stash and pick up some horns.

11th February 2008, 12:23 PM	#4
Clipped diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: home	Hey! can you mount the midbass in the rear doors? i did an iasca car last year and mounted the midbass under the dash pointing down on each side...sounded great and the stage forward. in another car i put an 8" midbass in the passenger footwell close to the firewall.

11th February 2008, 12:54 PM	#5
ECM diyAudio Member Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Cyprus	Why didn't I think of that! The rear doors do not contain speakers, but I'll take a look under the dash this afternoon. I also have an 8" square solobaric. It would be nice to stuff that sucker under the passenger side dash. BTW, I received two 225 boards in the mail today.

11th February 2008, 01:28 PM	#6
Clipped diyAudio Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: home	an 8" solo upfront would be awesome man, for midbass it wouldnt require much airspace either. you only get the bare boards? no heatsink? heck maybe you can mount both of them in that spare 2150sx heatsink....the rca ends may stick out though. mounting the components in the kicks is what id do if you have time...imaging is alot better and the stage moves forward nicely. an easy way to do it is to use 6"- 8" pvc and cut them at an angle (for kicks), with the speakers mounted in the round part not the slanted part.... you could even use the pvc for the midbass enclosures. 'sometimes' you can use the grill ring and epoxy it to the pvc and just mount the speaker....

11th February 2008, 08:43 PM	#10
jol50 diyAudio Member Join Date: Nov 2007	I didn't think of it but if you don't need huge bass and want SQ, you could run free air (IB) subs on the rear deck. 6x9, 8, or best 10" subs in the deck usually sound great. With a good set of comps properly installed in front you should have nice sound. You can't knock over buildings with one set of small subs IB, but they can produce great sound and get low with the most trunk space left. If you have reason to do exactly what you are asking, then I would say put an enclosure over the back of the mids in the deck, and see if you can remove some sound insulation in the seat back or vent it. That seems to be an issue with these cars stopping the sub from getting through.

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