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Old 12th February 2008, 12:01 AM   #11
Eva is offline Eva  Spain
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Quote:
Originally posted by jol50

Everyone says that but I can't get enough midbass out of my front doors, and that is really the only place in this little car to mount mids.
Then consider using an advanced DSP headunit (like the modern Alpines) to apply low-pass to the rear speakers so that they only produce midbass and bass, and to apply suitable delays to everything so that the mid/low frequencies coming from front and rear speakers are in phase and add up in the listening position.

Distance translates into a phase shift proportional to frequency (and to distance), that's why speakers at different distances from you don't sum properly but sometimes cancel. This also happens at midbass frequencies between left and right channels since one is 50cm to 100cm further than the other.
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Old 12th February 2008, 12:39 AM   #12
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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I'm thinking about the Pioneer 880, I think it will do what I need and many recommend it. Not sure I want to put more coin into a HU than that. I've had plenty of systems that sounded great with out DSP, but getting them that way takes time. One thing I don't like is not being able to adjust stuff while on the move like I can with my current crossover/EQ.
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Old 12th February 2008, 05:42 AM   #13
ECM is offline ECM  United States
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I didn't get a chance to look under the dash yesterday, but I will today. My civic a right hand drive to the gas pedal is to the outside of the vehicle and that gets in the way of building some kick panels.

I'm kicking myself right now because I had some free air kicker 6X9's that I sold to a friend about a week before I decided to buy the civic. I do have two pair of 6.5" kicker freeairs I thought about mounting directly behind the rear seat for a total of 4 free air "subs."

Unfortunately, I don't have any other free air speakers. I only have one sqaure 8" solo and 4 kicker competition 12" c12c.

I never intended to put anything but midbass in the rear deck as I'm not a big fan of "sound from the rear." I have a few crossovers as well so I can make sure the rear speakers put out only midbass.

Another idea I had in my sleep is to seal off the entire trunk and mount a pair of 6.5's in the deck. Those will run free air. Then, mount a pair of 12's directly behind the rear seat in their own sealed box. Essentially, I would be doing the opposite of my first idea which is to seal off the subs and run the 6.5's free air. Basically, they would both be firing into the cabin, but the sealed box would keep the 12's from interfering with the 6.5's.
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Old 12th February 2008, 10:48 AM   #14
ECM is offline ECM  United States
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Well, I took a look under the dash on both sides and there is zero room to stuff a midbass driver down there.

My Kicker R6 components don't fit in the front doors either! I think they are 6.75 inch speakers, not a true 6.5 inch. I may just purchase some 5.25 inch mids off ebay or something. I'm looking to do a simple install and don't want to fab up any kicks.

I think I may have to give up on the midbass drivers. A single 8" sub in the trunk with a 5.25 inch component set up front is what I'll probably end up doing.

thanks for all the tips guys.
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Old 12th February 2008, 08:27 PM   #15
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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Default My .02

If you don't care about big bass and also want midbass, I recommend you try a pair of 8 or better 10s in the rear deck IB....or whatever you can fit. You can adjust the crossover to cover about any range you want. A parametric will really help you. You can get some bass that is not directional, and if you can get the slope right have it trail off into midbass so it supports the front stage in a not so noticeable fashion. I set up a ton of old school systems this way, it can work well. Also with the rear deck straight behind you it is not as directional unless you turn your head. The 10 and 8 subs usually peak higher than typical crossover of 50-80Hz, then they will try to play above that which gives the trailing off midbass.

A parametric will make it easy, but you may have to swap or fiddle with drivers/crossovers to get it right without. A cheaper efficient paper sub can work well for this if you are not wanting big power, used to run 2x75rms amps all the time on 10s and they could put out a lot for music listening. One of the best was the cheap $15 paper pyramid 10", but it is blue now and may have been changed some. I'm thinking of trying them again. Even if you have a factory opening/grill, you can go a little larger and just mount the sub on a 3/4" plate under it. If it restricts it a little it just makes some aperiodic for it. I used to cut a slot and mount two 10s that way in old GM, like the old monte and cutlass with the straight rear window. Worked great. I would run 10" subs right into the 6x9 holes with a plate. Like I said if you drive them hard you may have issues doing that, but otherwise not. They don't need to have big xmax either. A 10 will put out more without having to drive it hard.
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Old 13th February 2008, 06:41 AM   #16
ECM is offline ECM  United States
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jol50, that's a good idea. I'm still throwing around some ideas before I jump into it. The weather is still pretty bad, so I'm not in any big hurry to get the audio installed since I don't have a garage.

I may have to start lurking around ebay to find what I need. The only free air speakers I have are 4 kicker 6.5". The 8 inch kicker is a solobaric and my 4 12's are comp, not free air.

I really like the idea of some IB subs. That way I keep my trunk and I won't have to build a box, just seal up the trunk.
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Old 13th February 2008, 07:45 AM   #17
Clipped is offline Clipped  Thailand
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if those kicker free airs came with mounting rings, sometimes you can flip the ring upside down and mount the speaker ontop....it will lift the speaker up and may fit in the original hole.
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Old 13th February 2008, 11:57 AM   #18
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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What's IB stand for? I've seen a couple of posts using that abbreviation in one of my other threads as well...
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Old 13th February 2008, 01:15 PM   #19
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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IB=Infinite Baffle. Same as free air, there is no box but the front and rear must be separated.

They say use a mid-Q driver for IB or higher. I think the ones I have are .49 Qts and they work well. If the subs are good for a ported box then often they will do free air. I would not use under maybe .40, unless it was a really HD high power sub. Some of the large 15" they are using IB in HT (home theater) even with a low Q....but they are very beefy units. The problem is at higher power they can't center well without a box helping.
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Old 13th February 2008, 01:45 PM   #20
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Is that what you had in your pics? Where would you find the baffles? I didn't see any listed on Ebay...
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