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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
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Hey guys,
I got a new car and plan on replacing the audio system it had. Its a 1998 Limited 4runner so it already came with a 6.5" component audio system in front. It sounds decent stock. My budget is kinda limited, so I plan on keeping the stock speakers just to see how they hold up. I plan on getting a 4 Channel (40-75W RMS) A/D/S or similar amp to power my front and rear speakers. -Would this be too much power for the stock speakers? I also plan on replacing my HU with a new Pioneer. http://www.crutchfield.com/S-6bK74ZN...P4UB&s=0&cc=01 -Any advice or opinions on that HU choice? I also plan on purchasing 2x12" subwoofers. Nothing crazy loud or expensive. Sealed box with about 400W RMS amp on them. -Whats the best price/brand for this? (I was actually thinking something like this: http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...112&tab=review ) I'd appreciate any advice you can give me on increasing performance and decreasing price. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Replace headunit with a midrange jvc/nak.
Replace front speakers with the most expensive ones you can afford (look for high sensativity - 90db or greater) The higher the sensativity, the less power you will need for a given volume level. Thus, you save money by not needing an amp. Also better speakers will have MUCH better bass response, so depending on how far you want to go, you might not need any subs. Of course if you plan on playing mp3's either on cd or mp3 player, then disregard the above and buy the cheapest cr-p available |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
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Agreed with MadMutt - put your bucks into the front component set. For a little motivation to spend extra here, scrap the rear speakers, and never install replacements. Only a front set of speakers is needed.
You'll be thankful to buy a decent headunit with some DSP capabilities (crossover, delay, EQ). That way, you won't need any other devices except for the amp. |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
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i did my friends toyota sportrider, similiar to your 4runner....we kept the stock speakers and stock headunit and added two 10" subs with amp, two dish tweeters in the kicks, and an amp for the mid/hi's (built in xover)
If the headunit is a single cd 'fujitsu' ... you can hook a line level adaptor to it....the fujitsu sounds better than most pioneer headunits, apart from the high end stuff. the stock speakers when crossed over and amplified will absolutely scream, not much bass in them, but they get loud... see how much they can take, wire up a set of tweeters to them in parrallel with an inline 2.2-4.7uf capacitor and bring the freq response up if you dont already have them.... of course my friend is cheap so we had to work around things, his truck was a 2003 model, so your equipment may be worse than his though since its an older model. if you cant get an active crossover, dont run the stock speakers. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
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How's this HU?
http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Produ...ures_and_specs I'll replace the HU first, and then if my speakers aren't sounding they way I like, I can get new ones. What are some midrange/not expensive 6.5 component speakers? I saw some on ebay made by Phoenix Gold for around $60 shipped, they make good amps, but I don't know about their speakers. Any reccomendations? Also, I plan on getting subs. I'd like some recommendations on that as well. I really appreciate all your help! |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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I'd rather look on Madisound for Seas or Vifa paper cone midbasses and seperate tweets, and run them active - much better results than a pre-built component set, because you can tweak the crossover points and slopes to perfectly match what's needed in your install. Every install is unique.
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Jim J. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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Don't forget sound deadening as well, a couple layers on your doors and any other metal that rattles will help a ton with midbass extension. Second Skin and RAAMmat BXT are two of my favorites for that.
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Jim J. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
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I'd get the PG comps and buy some deadener.
Me...I have some 6x8 kenwood 2 ways from Best Buy. When I first installed them they didn't sound too good...decent at best. They sounded "weak and hollow" After deadening my whole door these sound better than a lot of my friends 200-300 dollar components cuz they did not do any sound treatment. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
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I had planned on sound damping the doors, but now I'll do it for sure
![]() Any opinions on that HU? |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Hillsborough, NC/McLean, VA
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I'd rather get a head unit that has built-in active crossovers, even if you're going with passives now having the flexibility to get rid of them and run active in the future is always nice, and not too expensive
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Jim J. |
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