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Old 23rd January 2008, 03:39 AM   #1
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Default Which amps to use for midbass?

I have 3 Orion GX amps that I could use for my midbasses and sub. My midbasses are dual VC 4 ohm speakers. For my sub I have a 12", 4 ohm single voice coil. I don't play my music loud but I am looking for lots of dynamics. especially through the midbass.

The amps I have available are an Orion GX2150 and two GX280's.

I could hook up one channel of the GX2150 to each midbass (2 ohm load) and use the GX280 bridged for the sub.

OR I could use one GX280 for each midbass (one channel per voice coil) and use the GX2150 for the sub.

Please help.
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Old 24th January 2008, 06:38 PM   #2
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Quote:
Orion GX2150 and two GX280's.

As in 280gx and 2150gx from decades past, or are these newer?


Tim
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Old 3rd February 2008, 12:06 AM   #3
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These are the old gx's from decades gone past. Black heats sinks
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Old 4th February 2008, 06:11 PM   #4
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Quote:
These are the old gx's from decades gone past. Black heats sinks
Some of my favorites. Use the 2150 on midbass, one 280 on sub, and send me the other 280... I don't have any Orions in my collection!

Those amps can draw a lot of current, be careful that your power and ground connections are sufficient. Especially on the 2150 at 2 ohms.

If they were mine, I'd use the 2150 on sub and the 280's on midbass. But rather than using one 280 per side, I'd put a R & L voice coil on each amp. That will allow more tuning options, like the ability to stagger crossover frequencies for the dual coil midbass.

Tim (also in GA)
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Old 5th February 2008, 01:51 AM   #5
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tsmith1315

Can you please explain the benefits of staggered crossover frequencies and other tuning options for the dual coil midbass? Specifically to obtaining tight, powerful midbass?

Thanks for your time.
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Old 5th February 2008, 08:28 PM   #6
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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If you ran one amp say 70Hz LP and the other 50, then you would get something like half output from 70-50 and full output above 70. However you did it, and/or could do the HP of your midbass that way if needed. It would just be another tuning tool, like a parametric would be. Odds are the install/enclosure and vehicle are going to affect how they work more than anything, as far as how they sound. At that point you will have to tune them how you want. Lets say they peak at 120Hz and you want to run them up to 250. So maybe it would work better to cross one amp at 100 and let the other go to 250, so you cut the power at 120 that way.
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