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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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How do you know if an amp can properly accept balanced inputs?
I'm somewhat fammiliar with balanced signals in that the audio signal rides on both the center conductor and the sheild conductor of the signal cables. My BMW 3 series factory head unit has balanced outputs to the factory amp that i would like to send directly to an amp. i know that some amps are capable of accepting this signal directly because they advertise this and all that i would need to do is solder on an RCA connector and plug it in. on the other hand there are some amps that reportadley work just fine with the balanced signal and i had no idea that that was possible. how can i check to verify if a given amp can accept the balanced signal? is it just a matter of how much input voltage it can accept? is there a test i can do with a meter to determine the input setup? on the E46Fanatics forum we started a list of amps that can accept balanced inputs. can anyone confirm or deny the amps on the list or add to the list below. JL Audio (all) Xtant (all) Alpine PDX (all) Zapco (most) JBL (older amps) SoundStream (most older amps) McIntosh (all) HiFonics (some) Crossfire (some) Autotek (some) |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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If the RCA shields for the left and right channels are directly connnected (~0 ohms between them -- with no RCA signal cables plugged in), they are NOT fully balanced.
You need to be careful when driving a strong signal (speaker level or preamp level from a source with a ±15v supply) into the input of an amplifier. If the amp is off or shuts down for some reason and the signal drives the input of the front-end op-amps above the power supply input of the op-amp (which is essentially at 0v since the amp has shut down), the front-end op-amps can be damaged. Some balanced inputs REQUIRE a dedicated ground connection between the signal source and the amp. Without it, the amp may oscillate which could cause damage to the amp or to the speakers. Always monitor the output of all channels of the amp with a scope when experimenting.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#3 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Dec 2007
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i'm very skeptical about the whole balanced thing in car audio, i think its all one phat lie.
i have some "balanced" audiocontrol crossovers and it seems all they produce is alternator whine ... total ripoff the conclusion i came to is that most stuff in car audio is simply garbage and the only way to know for sure is run it and see how bad it blows i wonder if isolation crossovers would help in my case ? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
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Quality varies widely in car audio. Some of the equipment is garbage and some is absolutely top notch.
Balanced inputs can work as well as (or better than) unbalanced inputs. The Audio Control components often have multiple grounding schemes set by switches. If they weren't set properly, that could have been the source of the noise. It's also possible that you had a defective component.
__________________
Links >> Basic Car Audio Amp Repair --- Basic Car Audio Electronics --- Basic Transistor Testing --- Basic Switching Power Supply Design --- Basic Computer Skills << Links |
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#5 |
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Account Disabled
Join Date: Dec 2007
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i played around with those switches. i also reorganized the ground wires to make them shorter and thicker ... all in all that got the whine down by maybe 20 decibels but with a 150watt/channel amp driving 104db/watt tweeters directly and without padding (active system) the whine is still so loud that i can hear it even wearing my etymotic research earplugs
the only thing i haven't tried yet is isolation transformers. if that aint gonna work either ... its gona be bad |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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A good clue to whether it can receive a balanced signal will be an input socket for the hot + cold + chassis ground pins sent by the balanced output of the source.
Usually this is an XLR or TRS socket waiting for the appropriate plug with the appropriate voltages.
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regards Andrew T. |
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#7 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
yes but this is rare on car audio amps. I have seen some that use standard RCA inputs and have a switch or a jumper to change between standard and balanced input. i also measured a crossfire class D BMF1000D amp and the L and R RCA shields are not connected so this should work with balanced inputs?? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Scottish Borders
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separate RCAs with separated grounds and using the grounds as the signal return cannot be balanced signal lines.
__________________
regards Andrew T. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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Quote:
i don't think the shields are at ground? could they be floating? i'm still trying to figure this out. |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2007
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i do have a newer crunch amp on my bench now with a mini-din connector for balanced inputs. looks like a keyboard or mouse plug type.
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