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Old 22nd February 2003, 09:11 AM   #1
mcyates is offline mcyates  United Kingdom
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Location: Middlesbrough
Default Where is my alternator output wire

Where is my alternator output wire. I'm going to take a picture or my alternator. Could someone please tell me which one is the main output wire.

go here instead for the pictures or the alternator

3 pictures 500k each

http://www.myfootballforum.com/alternator
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Old 22nd February 2003, 09:13 AM   #2
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Funny looking loudspeaker....
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Old 22nd February 2003, 09:15 AM   #3
mcyates is offline mcyates  United Kingdom
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oops, should be in electronics and parts then. sorry, i just assumed since it had something to do with my loudspeakers, i posted it in here.
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Old 22nd February 2003, 09:17 AM   #4
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lol, it might be okay here... but it is kinda funny..
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Old 22nd February 2003, 10:04 AM   #5
Bobken is offline Bobken  United Kingdom
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Default Re: Where is my alternator output wire

Quote:
Originally posted by mcyates
Where is my alternator output wire. I'm going to take a picture or my alternator. Could someone please tell me which one is the main output wire.

go here instead for the pictures or the alternator

3 pictures 500k each

http://www.myfootballforum.com/alternator

Hi,

The output (live wire) will be one of
the wires exiting the right hand side of the alternator, but, it is not clear enough from these pics to tell precisely which one.

As it carries the highest current in the entire car (could be 20/30 Amps or more when charging a near flat battery) it is 99.9% sure it will be the heaviest cable around the alternator, and unless someone has subsequently removed it, it would usually have a protective boot or cover over the connection where it meets the alternator, as any shorts to ground here would be a disaster!


I am not sure why you need to identify this wire, but failing all else, why not look in a workshop manual for the colour-coding, or ask at your local Renault Dealer?

Usually, Haynes Manuals are available at local libraries, I have found, or frequently in Halfords Stores, and you may be able to see what you need from just a quick look.

Regards,
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Old 22nd February 2003, 10:07 AM   #6
mcyates is offline mcyates  United Kingdom
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the red wire is about 5mm thick and it is the thickest of them all. All other wires are about 2mm thick. I am adding a suppressor to the alternator to get rid of alternator winding!!
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Old 22nd February 2003, 10:15 AM   #7
Bobken is offline Bobken  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcyates
the red wire is about 5mm thick and it is the thickest of them all. All other wires are about 2mm thick. I am adding a suppressor to the alternator to get rid of alternator winding!!

Hi,

Yes, that will be it, and I might have guessed that it would be red in colour, but , had I been wrong (I am not familiar with this particular alt.) it would have probably confused you even more!


I assume you mean "alternator whining" rather than "winding", in which case is this in your ICE system (rather than a physical 'whine' actually at the alternator?

Regards,
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Old 22nd February 2003, 10:18 AM   #8
mcyates is offline mcyates  United Kingdom
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yes this is due to a new radio, 2 new amps, 4 new speakers and a old 15" subwoofer. Also my light dim. will i have to by a 1 farad capacitor to solve it?
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Old 22nd February 2003, 11:50 AM   #9
Bobken is offline Bobken  United Kingdom
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Quote:
Originally posted by mcyates
yes this is due to a new radio, 2 new amps, 4 new speakers and a old 15" subwoofer. Also my light dim. will i have to by a 1 farad capacitor to solve it?
Hi,

I spent a lot of time on interference suppression about 20 years ago when I bought a new Lotus car, which, because of the glass-fibre body, there was no inherent shielding anywhere.

Absolutely everthing from w/wipers to the stop-light switch made an awful din, but, in the end, I managed to quieten it down.

During this time, I got to know Joseph Lucas employees very well (it was all Lucas electrics gear then in the UK) and I spent 3 days at the (then) Lucas Interference Lab in Birmingham, during which time, several devices which we developed subsequently went into production!

As a result, I did learn quite a bit about this subject, as you might imagine!!!

Anyway, conventionally, for any suppression, it is a good idea to use a choke in line with the positive 'feeds' to all audio gear, together with a suitable capacitor to ground, as you suggest. The choke prevents the line-borne interference from passing through, and what little does get thro the choke should (in theory!) then get dumped to ground, so nothing should reach the ICE.

In your case, I don't like the sound of the "dimming lights" you mention, and would like to know how and when this occurs before making any more practical suggestions.

One of the biggest culprits for causing this kind of unwanted interference is simply having poor grounding or earths, followed by bad connections in the power feeds to the gear.

It is always my first step to disconect the battery terminals and clean them all (battery posts and wire terminals) up carefully, apply some silcone grease or Vaseline, and tighten them up again properly. Do the same with the earth tags which go to the chassis (body) and any engine connections, and in every case, ensure that the base metal is shining bright.

This will improve the quality of sound, as well.

Also, are you sure it is the alternator which is responsible for the problem? If it is, the sound will increase in pitch as you increase the engine revolutions.

Regards,
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Old 22nd February 2003, 11:52 AM   #10
mcyates is offline mcyates  United Kingdom
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the sound does increase in pitch as i increase the engine revolutions.

The lights only dim when the bass is really loud.
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