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Old 22nd December 2007, 10:06 AM   #1
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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Default soundstream ref300 problem

i'm trying to fix a ref300 and not sure what's wrong with it, when i power it up i have sound but it "blips" if that makes sence and some of the big resistors near the outputs are toasty hot! all outputs and resisters seam to be ok as i've ohmed them out so a bit stumped

any help would be appreciated...

mark.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 11:21 AM   #2
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R121 and R122 run hot normally (if those are the resistors you referred to).

Is it drawing excessive current?

Does it make a difference if you switch from high voltage to high current?

Is there any DC on the outputs?
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Old 22nd December 2007, 01:10 PM   #3
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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it's the big resistors (R326 etc..)

there is a little dc on the outputs (about 0.200 mv) and doesn't seam to make a differance in high current mode or not.

it's drawing 13 amps on idle, my good ref300 draws 0.002amps!
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Old 22nd December 2007, 01:47 PM   #4
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Those are the emitter resistors. If they're getting hot, it's definitely drawing excessive current. Double-check the output transistors and the driver transistors on the driver board. Look carefully at the resistors on the driver board to see if any look like they have overheated.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 02:11 PM   #5
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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which are the driver transistors? i have some spare boards here too if needed including a new one!

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y17...0/DSCN2483.jpg
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Old 22nd December 2007, 02:24 PM   #6
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The large transistors on the driver board are the driver transistors.

VERY carefully compare the readings of the driver transistors on both the new and the used boards. Sometimes the drivers are leaking (not completely shorted) which makes it difficult to determine if they're defective. You will have to pull the boards to get accurate readings (unless something is completely shorted or completely open).

I don't know if you've removed the driver boards before but if you haven't, be very careful. The main boards are easily damaged. I generally recommend using ChipQuik solder alloy but it's not always readily available. Try to find the problem without removing the driver board.

You probably only need to be concerned with the channel that has the overheating resistors.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 02:38 PM   #7
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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i shall go and check them then, it's the left side channel that gets hot, i've never pulled those boards before but i know the soundstream boards seam very fragile compared to pg m and ms boards....

i need to invest in some kinda de-soldering equipment but i don't know what, i'm slowly learning how to fix amps but having trouble desoldering at times it's a fun hobby though
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Old 22nd December 2007, 03:53 PM   #8
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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think i may have found the problem, going over the outputs again i noticed the top 3 devices are only reading 81ohm compared with the rest this is considerably lower and it's this section getting quite hot!

i think they are tip102's under that section so will see if i have any spares and try it out!
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Old 22nd December 2007, 07:24 PM   #9
marko is offline marko  United Kingdom
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all fixed now, thanks perry was a bad tip102 and i had a spare one so fitted that! damn those ref300's sound so good.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 10:38 PM   #10
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If this is your own personal amp, replacing the single TIP102 may be acceptable but if you do this for a paying customer, you need to replace all of the transistors that are operating in parallel. In this case, you should have replaced all 3 of the 102s in that channel. Having matched components increases reliability.

A good soldering iron, a good desoldering pump and good quality desoldering braid is all you need to desolder most components. I like the WES51 iron. The edsyn DS017 is the best desoldering pump I've used. Chemtronics Chemwick braid is the best I've used.

For times when you need to work on sensitive boards you need to use special solder. ChipQuik solder is a low temp alloy that allows you to remove components at very low temperatures. This helps prevent damage to the board. It's most effective if you have a variable temp soldering iron. If you don't have a low/variable temp iron, you can apply it quickly with a hot iron and then use a heat gun to desolder the components.
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