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Old 22nd December 2007, 07:43 AM   #1
tavo04 is offline tavo04  United States
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Lightbulb Buzzing noise on RF 250.2

Having truble with an amp that was recently handed down to me by my brother (chrome Rockford Fosgate 250.2). When turned on the power supply makes a buzzing noise and then blows the 60 amp fuse at the battery javascript:smilie(''). Yesterday i looked under the hood and the board looks flawless, no burt traces or components. What givesjavascript:smilie('').
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Old 22nd December 2007, 07:57 AM   #2
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If it only blows the fuse after the remote voltage is applied, it probably has shorted output transistors or someone has gone in and turned the bias up too high.

Disconnect all speaker wires from the amp and disconnect the RCA jacks. Replace the fuse with a 15 amp fuse. If the fuse blows when you turn the head unit on, the amp is the problem. If the fuse doesn't blow, you need to check the wiring.

If the fuse blows and you want to troubleshoot the problem, disconnect the amp and remove the bottom cover. The output transistors are connected to the large green resistors.

Measure the resistance from the middle leg to the third leg of each of the output transistors, If you find any group (3 transistors per group) that appears shorted, at least one of the group is shorted.

You can generally determine the shorted one by measuring the resistance from the first leg to the middle leg. The one with the lowest resistance is the shorted one. If you cut it out of the circuit (all 3 legs), you may be able to get the amp to power up to determine if there are any further problems.
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Old 23rd December 2007, 06:39 AM   #3
tavo04 is offline tavo04  United States
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Heres the pic. I installed it where my previous amp was so wiring is ok, ( I double checked). It blows the fuse when +12V are applied to the remote turn on. Trubleshooting on an amp this complicated would take some time and my sodering skills are not that great so I was considering paying someone to do it for me. Reason being I don't have the equipment necesary to test and properly diagnose such problems. Who would you guys and gals recommend that does a good job at a fair price?? And by the way thank you Perry for the info, I kinda decided not to fix this paticular one becouse I have my old and not so expensive cunch amp that could be used for practice.
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Old 23rd December 2007, 02:31 PM   #4
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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You can check the output transistors with a $10 digital meter, that is all you need. They are the ones clamped to the heatsink and usually not near the round transformer, those would be the power supply transistors.
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Old 25th December 2007, 01:19 AM   #5
tavo04 is offline tavo04  United States
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Where could I get the IRF540's? Should I replace all of them? What do you recomend??? I tested all of the IRF540's with my friends Blue Point meter and 4 IFR540's are shorted. Are there any other devices to check or measure while i have the meter? Sorry, you can tell im kind of new to this but what the heck maybe ill lear a thing or 2. I'll try to post some pictures as soon as figure how to. Thank U, and by the way Merry Christmas to all of you!
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Old 25th December 2007, 02:04 AM   #6
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Did you test the transistors while they were soldered in the board?
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Old 25th December 2007, 07:34 AM   #7
tavo04 is offline tavo04  United States
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Yes, while they were on the board my meter read 1.00 witch means no continuity between terminlas 2 and 3 of 4 IRF9540's. The rest of them had continuity between terminals 2 and 3 (are they still good?) When compared to another Rockford 250.2 from Amp Guts website, I noticed that one diode is missing on the left side of the transformer labeled D101. I assume D101 is a diode, am I correct, if so what is it's function? Thank U for being patient.
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Old 25th December 2007, 08:42 AM   #8
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When your meter is set to ohms and you touch your meter leads together, does the meter read 1.00? If not, what does it read?

Or does the meter read 1.00 when they meter leads are not touching?

Set you meter to ohms and re-check the transistors. Post the circuit board designation number (Qxxx) and the resistance from legs 2 to 3 for each of the IRF9540s.
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Old 25th December 2007, 08:53 AM   #9
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It appears that this amp may be the same as a 250m2. If that's the case, D101 is the same as D100. Both are a 1N5366B.
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Old 25th December 2007, 07:25 PM   #10
tavo04 is offline tavo04  United States
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When I set the meter to ohms it buzzes and reads .000 meaning there is continuity between the touching leads. When there is no continuity it reads 1.0. The only info on the board reads PC-0767J , J. Welch and I guess the serial number attached B19QA8A001296. I noticed that there are 12 fets, (6 one side and 6 on the other). The las 3 on each side have part # IRF9540 and the others have Part #IRF540. Herer are the #'s starting from top left to right IRF540- .004 IRF540- .004 IRF540- .004 IRF9540- 1.427 IRF9540- 1.425 IRF9540- 1.418 Starting from left to right on bottom IRF540- .002 IRF540- .002 IRF540- .002 IRF9540- 1.417 IRF9540- 1.415 IRF6540- 1.421 Prob. getting a new Weller WP35 for soldering, my 7200 series is harder to work with. I read your web page Perry, filled with usefull info about amp repair. This amp defenetly has been worked on, hopefully I'll get it running
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