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Old 22nd December 2007, 01:29 PM   #21
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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I've actually decided to take a few others advice and look into a 4 channel amp for my highs as my lows are just perfect right now and changing the amp is not what I need as it will only give me a little bit more power and I'm already pushing it at the RMS level for my subs. I had already bought the JL amp before my head unit and this head unit with the 5 volt preouts has givin me the punch I was looking for. So, I'm just happy with my Alpine and will resell the JL Audio on Ebay. That being said though, this thread is not for none as I'm still going to have to upgrade my power wire if I plan on adding another amp. I do already have a distribution block that accepts 4 gauge wire and that can put out 4 - 8 gauge wires to different applications so I'll just get some 4 gauge wire from Crutchfield and will probably try to upgrade the wire maybe next weekend or wait till I get a 4 channel amp and then hook it up. I'm just worried about the amperage now...

If I get a 4 channel amp that might have a 30amp fuse on it.

Sub amp has two 20amp fuses for 40amps.

40+30=70amps

My alternator is supposely 70amps. Is this overkill?

If it is, I might just turn the gain down a little bit on the sub amp and make due.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 05:14 PM   #22
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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You can't go by fuses anymore, everyone puts huge ones in. I have tested little amps (up to ~100wrms/ch) right into clipping with 7.5a fuses and they don't blow (ok, only for a song or two)....they come with 20-30a fuses. I used to run an old amp that spec'ed at a 24 amp draw max (2x60/80wrms at 4/2ohm) plus the exact same amp for high side and every week or two I would blow a 30a fuse at the battery on big bass music. I was running the sub amp hard at 2ohms on 4 10s right up to clipping (It would not clip WOT), and 6x9/tweeters/mids on the highside amp at 2ohms also.

Maybe someone who has a proper test rig can tell us if new amps can actually blow their fuses under any normal use, or even on a bench with a sine wave.

But like I said before you have to put a sine wave (solid bass) into it at max volume to ever see that draw so it depends on your use. Also, if you run the high side amp with a HP crossover it is unlikely it will ever pull full power as bass is what takes the juice. If I were you I would just add a 4-5ga wire, follow the one you have now and add it right in. Tie them together or use the 8ga for high amp, just fuse both at battery whatever you do. Make sure nothing can cut that wire (sharp edges/etc) and zip tie them together if you can.

If you have a good battery it should work ok, unless you play bass tracks loud as it goes all the time. Even then so your voltage will drop to the battery and you lose some wattage until you upgrade...your lights will dim/etc.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 05:31 PM   #23
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Here's how I was going to do it...

Replace the 8 awg power wire from the battery to the amp already in the car with 4 gauge (With a inline fuse holder and fuse of course). Connect the 4 gauge to my distriibution block and use 2 of the 8 gauge openings on it for the amplifiers. Everything else is pretty much standard procedure for hookup. That should work shouldn't it? I use to have dimming light issues in my old Hyundai Excel hatchback back in the 90's but then again, I don't think that had as big a alternator as my Civic does now. I also had it this way but only had 8 awg wire total for both amps. It worked and sounded great like that so hopefully it will work out like this as well. I'm watching a couple Alpine 4 channel amps on Ebay right now.

Also as a quick note: I still have my old PPI Sedona 50ix and that only has a 25amp fuse but it is a 2 channel amp. It is 2 ohm stable at 90 watts (4ohms is 50w x 2). Would it make sense to maybe use that and wire my 4 speakers in parallel for a 2ohm load and keep the gain way down? It has turn on and off pops though but I could hook the remote wire for that amp up to the remote antenna input of the HU.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 05:46 PM   #24
crs1 is offline crs1  United States
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what you are failing to look at is that at 70 amps is most likely max on your alt . now because your fuses say 20,20,30 your amps are not going to draw that many amps that is the max they can take before thay blow but now you have to think about what else your car needs to run at the same time ie.headlights,windshield wipers,parking lights ,cars computer the radio its self it also has to keep your battery charged what i would say you need to do is get four GA or bigger come off of your bat. to a 80 to 100 amp fuse back to a fuse block with a 40 amp fuse to your 4ch and a 30 to your sub amp on your sub amp run a 1 farad cap and you should be fine . partsexpress.com has every thing you need 4AWG wire part #100-194 $1.95 /ft ,in line fuse holder 070-660 $8.25 ,fuse block part#263-611 $31.89 ,cap part#268-420 $89.89, heavy duty ring terminals part# 263-625 $2.85 this i some ideas it sounds like a lot but when you have to start replacing alternators it is a little to pay prime example i had a 1992 pon. sunbird with a 3.1 v6 5 speed 2 soundstreem 12's 1 Rubicon 302 amp 1 highfonics 4 Chanel amp running my Polk 6x9's and Polk 5.25 components i went through 4 alternators at $150.00 EA for a rebuilt till i got better wires and a cap then i never needed a new alt again parts express shuld have all that you need to do it right
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Old 22nd December 2007, 07:12 PM   #25
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Ok..Found a 4 gauge amp kit with the wire and everything and a 2.0 farad cap for $104.85 with shipping and handling. Only thing is the fuse holder only holds a 60amp fuse. Does all that sound good and would I need to replace that fuse with a 80amp ag fuse, which seems to be the highest they come in?

Then all I would need to do is run the wire (And get a fuse block of course) and put in my PPI amplifier (Best and least expensive choice but has a turn on and off pop) or another amplifier if I decide on one and be good to go.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 07:46 PM   #26
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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I bought a used 1f cap off ebay for 15 shipped, supposedly 1f per 1,000 watts is what you need. If you add new wire to your 8ga you have even larger wire=4ga+8ga=even better. The PPI would work fine, you can even put a little resistor on the rears if you want...think I used to put a few ohms on them. My kit came with a 100A fuse in it. I have a pile of 50s and 60s here and likely all mine needs anyway for 700w.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 08:19 PM   #27
crs1 is offline crs1  United States
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look in partsexpress if your fuse type is agu they have 10 up to 80A if you have a wafer type they have 60 A to 300A or if you go to a shop in your area you can get 100A the only reason for the fuse holder off of the bat. is if the wire between the bat. and amps shorts out you wont blow up your bat. now 80A would be fine me personally i like 100A
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Old 22nd December 2007, 09:04 PM   #28
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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How about a Stinger 4 gauge multi amp kit that comes with a Distr Block (Which I already have...Will still have to get a fuse dist block) and 150amp wafer fuse for the front and all the wiring I need. I already have another pair of RCA cables. This all for $69.95 and free shipping. I then will need to get a cap which I'm looking at one new 1 farad that ends in a day and 20hours for $9.99

http://cgi.ebay.com/STINGER-PRO-4-GA...QQcmdZViewItem

Nevermind on that...I'll keep searching...just found a Rockford Fosgate 4 gauge kit with a 100amp Maxi fuse...For about $50.00. Is this a good one?
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Old 22nd December 2007, 09:20 PM   #29
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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Remember the walmart 5ga kit I posted with the 100a is $32 if you add it to your 8ga....likely even by itself. I think the fuse block is permanent on it but the distro block is not.
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Old 22nd December 2007, 09:28 PM   #30
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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It's just, if I'm going to take all the time and effort to poke through that hole again, then I'm going to want to do it the right way so I'd rather just upgrade to 4 gauge rather than try and twist and reclamp 2 8 gauge wires together. It's easier just to replace the wire all together
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