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Old 21st December 2007, 12:15 PM   #11
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Location: Louisiana
Find a place that sells welding cable. They'll probably sell it by the foot. It won't look as nice but it's almost always good quality cable.
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Old 21st December 2007, 12:42 PM   #12
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Hey Perry...Not sure how long it is but I found some at a local hardware store...Found this on a old thread for welding cable sizes and what they are equal to in gauge for power wire:

25mm (4ga), 35mm (2ga), 50mm (1ga), 70mm (0ga)

Size on the cable says 0.30 mm...What gauge would that be? Like 3ga or 5 ga???

I'll probably just get the amp kit though...I also have been thinking about getting maybe some 5 or 6 gauge wire...might that be ok?
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Old 21st December 2007, 01:17 PM   #13
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I'm not sure what those measurements are. Solid 4g wire has a diameter of 0.2". The stranded 4g welding cable I have here has a diameter of ~0.25" (copper only). The outer diameter of the insulation is 0.41").

To convert any of these to mm (diameter), multiply them by 25.4.

The chart on the following page may be helpful:
http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/aw...uge-d_731.html

When you're looking up wire sizes, don't confuse diameter (mm) with area (mm^2).
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Old 21st December 2007, 02:58 PM   #14
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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If a walmart near you has the kit I got for $34 I think it was, you could add the 5ga to your 8ga and be close to 4ga. Like I said it had RCAs, distro block, 100A fuse block, etc. Problem up here anyway is they thin out car stereo stuff this time of year. Kit was a Scosche, here I think this one for 32: http://walmart.scosche-cars.com/prod...ductID=4213089
This kit was more useful to me because I needed some more RCAs anyway, wanted a distro block too.

Like I said before, you would be very happy with the sound of a high side amp. If you need a 2/4ch depends on if you run front and rear, and even then you can still run rear off HU and amp the front. If you want the rear to go as loud/sound good then get a 4ch, I do so it plays well when I am outside the car. You only need about 75wrms/ch to get it sounding reasonable and it should not take as much power as the sub amp. Can also run a 2ch on 4 speakers at 2ohms for extra power but no fader that way. This can work if rear speakers are mounted by floor or so you don't hear them that well, but an audiophile will tell you not to have any rears.
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Old 21st December 2007, 03:15 PM   #15
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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I actually saw that a little while ago when I was searching around on the net...The 5 gauge wire would probably work as well as the 4 gauge would for my application. I just don't know if it's carried in the stores around here and I'm just going to probably head out to the Audio store again during lunch and grab 1 of the 61.00 kits they have. Better to be safer than sorry and if it doesn't work out for the JL and I end up liking the Alpine better, then no harm as it will help with that amp as well.
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Old 21st December 2007, 03:36 PM   #16
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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It says free shipping to your store, but if they don't have one on hand I'm sure you would have to wait a week or something with the holidays. See what I mean, for the $27 more you spend you could score a good 2ch amp on ebay shipped but if you want the other wire its up to you.
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Old 21st December 2007, 04:12 PM   #17
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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ran into a bigger issue now...I went out and checked underneath the hood of the Civic and the alternator looks like it says AHGA50 not AHGA60...Hard to tell...but that leads me to believe that it's a 50amp alternator, not 60 and juding on this file I downloaded from here that I have been checking:

http://www.datafilehost.com/download.php?file=6d26c621

500watts on a 50amp Alternator at 13.8volts is overkill and it suggests getting a lower wattage system or bigger alternator. I know I won't be hitting 500 full time and there is voltage loss on distance from the battery and all that stuff...but I don't want to run into any issues with losing all power going down the highway because my alternator isn't charging enough. So it might be best just to be happy with what I have...based on my new findings..any suggestions? Maybe I'm just seeing it wrong...Looks like 50 instead of a 60...
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Old 21st December 2007, 05:16 PM   #18
jol50 is offline jol50  United States
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A lot of people overrun their alternators. All that means is when you put that much draw on it you will drop down to 12.5v or whatever your battery is. After a while you will run the voltage of the battery down as it drains, but that would take a while if the alternator is supplying current as well. Alternators do not like that, it will shorten its life but like most things the more you run them the faster they wear out. However music RMS is rarely the full output of the amp unless you play a lot of sine wave stuff like bass tracks. You can just test the voltage while you run it and when it drops to 12.x you have gone beyond what the alternator can produce. Note the alternator can not keep up with music draw so it will dip then come back up....will have a delay to the demand. Most amps are unregulated so those will have less output in watts as the voltage falls from 13.8 or whatever the regulator of the alternator is running. Most cars never see the 14.4v new amps are rated at anyway, so unlikely you will ever see max advertised rms power from any amp you have. My kicker is something like 65w/ch and only 40 at 12v. Some old amps are rated at 12, thus the difference in output.
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Old 21st December 2007, 05:37 PM   #19
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Yeah..That's what I kind of figuring as well...You get power loss anyways from the length of the power wire from the battery and size and all. Also, like you said, I don't drive very long trips and the volume on the headunit is never going to reach full power, the gain isn't going to even be all the way up (probably half way on this amp), so it's not going to be thirsting for power and all. Plus, I just called my brother and he knows about electrical systems and says I should still be fine even if it is only 50amps on the alternator, and if not, he said I will find out quickly and will then know I need to upgrade my alternator LOL My brother is pretty cool on this tuff...My mom and dad would be scolding and yelling at me about it even though I'm 32 and it's my money I called a auto parts store and gave them the part# and the guy said he's showing in their system that the alternator is 70amp. I should trust them more as they are a parts store. He said that's what they are showing on their screen and if Honda told me to call them and find out and if they didn't know, then it's gotta be the right stats. So I think i will be fine again and will try to find a wiring kit now...
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Old 21st December 2007, 08:08 PM   #20
crs1 is offline crs1  United States
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no you don't need a bigger alt. just go with at least 4 GA but if you are able get 2GA and yes welding cable is fine in fact it has better insulation and if running it under the car like i do on my truck put it in split loom tubing and only use black cable ties thay are the only ones rated for automotive and outdoor use .
hell i run 4GA to the starter on my stock car and it is only a 4 cylinder neon
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