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Old 18th December 2007, 07:28 PM   #31
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Join Date: Sep 2007
I tried the phase thing before and it doesn't work out too good with the subs...It sounded pretty good one with 1 10 out of phase but doesn't with 2 12's. Oh well...I have some things I'm working on now...

After doing some searching around on wire sizes, I found a old thread about Power Wire and if it is really necessary to have 0 gauge wire. I found in there a link Perry Babin put up for his wire section on his site: http://www.bcae1.com/wire.htm and found out that I was losing 19.49 watts from my amplifier to my speakers, judging by Perry's chart, cause I'm using 16awg wire for my speaker wire. The best fit would have been 10 gauge wire but the only 2 car stereo shops around here were out of it of course. So, I got 12awg which should do a pretty good job as I should only lose 7.85 watts from the amp to the speakers. With 10 gauge I would have lost only 4.96 but oh well. Out of time this week before Christmas and I should be getting a JL Audio A1400 amplifier tomorrow that I just bought. I just wanted to make sure I do this right and could not believe how much wattage I was losing with 16 gauge wire. So I'm gaining almost 12watts from just changing my speaker wire hopefully. It's JL Audio 12AWG speaker wire I got from the car shop. Doesn't look too thick but it says 12AWG so I'll roll with it. The dealer said I won't notice any difference at all in power (He also said 10AWG would be overkill) but I don't believe that too much...I mean, we are talking about a 12 watt difference and I notice even 1-2 watt differences on a HU. What's done is done...I'd rather have a JL Audio amp than a Alpine but that's my choice and I was beginning to think that some of the reviews on this Alpine were probably right, that it doesn't seem to put out a lot of power for 2 subs. So, I got the JL to replace the Alpine and we will see how that goes after I hook it up. I'll then sell the Alpine on Ebay. I also have my new HU coming which is the Kenwood KDC-X891 that has 5volt preouts and a USB interface. Then I will sell the Clarion on Ebay as I just got a brand new one back to replace the other one I sent back. So it's all coming together.

In terms of settings, the audio guy at the audio store came out there and sat in my car and listened to my system today and said it actually doesn't sound that bad at all but he would suggest to turn the LP to 60hz and set my HP filter at 80hz cause the 12's were drowning out my highs but I sort of like it like that for rock music cause then if the highs are louder, the lows don't sound like they are hitting. I listened to his suggestions though. He also said to turn the gain down a little bit as it sounded like it was too high but I think he misunderstood me when I told him it was 1 click away from all the way as he probably thought I meant one turn on the screwdriver when I actually meant one line on the amp. He said that he would have it 70-80% of the way up as even in competitions they only run their gains at 50% or a little more and use the subwoofer settings to try and gain some more of the bump back...he said maybe to turn it up to like 9 or 10 as it is at 3 out of 15 right now. He did suggest getting a 4 channel amp for the highs which might be something down the road. Right now, I'm trying to get this all straight. I left and headed back to work and didn't touch the gain but left the lows at 60hz and the highs at 80hz and it was hitting pretty low and nice but I'll have to get the settings straight on the JL now when it comes. I'll keep you informed....
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Old 18th December 2007, 07:46 PM   #32
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Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Louisiana
Most of the calculators on the site will warn you if you drop below 300 circular mils per amp of current. That's probably why it told you to use larger wire. At 300cm/a, there is very little chance of the wire overheating. At a lower ratio, the wire may overheat but it would require full power constant output (sine wave) to produce heating sufficient to cause the insulation to melt.

If you are running 1400 watts, 19 watts will be absolutely inaudible. 1dB is generally considered the minimum difference people can hear. From experience, it seems that it takes at least 3dB to be noticeably louder/softer.

16g wire is good for most applications. 12g would be more than enough in a vehicle.
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Old 18th December 2007, 08:04 PM   #33
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Join Date: Sep 2007
Yeah...That's what it would tell me with a 16awg wire:

There's too much loss, too few cm/A and/or an error due to the values entered. Use a larger wire or a shorter length of wire

Circular mils with 16awg is 165 and with 12awg it's 415...Big difference from what I can tell. I still think I made the good choice....
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