I bought some speakers for my car and I prefer tu build an ampifier in order to use them max,
the main problem is that I don't know so much about speakers,especially about speaker power, and therefore I don't know how much power shoud I deliver to my speakers?
they are (120W / max 180W) RMS ,Z = 4ohm
this means: max amplitude that could appear at speaker is Umax =35V ....?
I calculate this amplitude using the formula Prms=( Umax*Umax)/ 2*Z*1.41
Am I right?
& what is pink noise?
I am so confused....
the main problem is that I don't know so much about speakers,especially about speaker power, and therefore I don't know how much power shoud I deliver to my speakers?
they are (120W / max 180W) RMS ,Z = 4ohm
this means: max amplitude that could appear at speaker is Umax =35V ....?
I calculate this amplitude using the formula Prms=( Umax*Umax)/ 2*Z*1.41
Am I right?
& what is pink noise?
I am so confused....
Speaker power is subjective, it may handle it for a while....a short or long while and depends how clean power is, what mounting/enclosure is used, what frequency is put to them. I would use an amp that is capable of providing clean power at the volume levels you will use it at. Usually 100x2rms is enough for most people for front speakers, maybe not subs.
Pink noise is run through a system so you can measure frequency response, look up audio RTA (real time analyzer) for use of this. For some good info look in here for a post by Perry Babin in most amp threads and follow the link to his site on audio info, it explains most of that stuff in great detail.
Pink noise is run through a system so you can measure frequency response, look up audio RTA (real time analyzer) for use of this. For some good info look in here for a post by Perry Babin in most amp threads and follow the link to his site on audio info, it explains most of that stuff in great detail.
Can you please be more specific about clean power ?
I didn't understand you so well !
and about frequency... they are all full range if you mean that
Besides,here are my speaker's specifications:
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/13_download/gztf.pdf
front: GZTF 13T
back: GZTF 69T
Front speakers are mounted indor while back speakers are mounted on the rear panel
I didn't understand you so well !
and about frequency... they are all full range if you mean that
Besides,here are my speaker's specifications:
http://www.ground-zero-audio.com/13_download/gztf.pdf
front: GZTF 13T
back: GZTF 69T
Front speakers are mounted indor while back speakers are mounted on the rear panel
Clean power = no clipping or distortion.
I have run low wattage speakers loud on good clean power, and have seen people destroy high wattage speakers on little amps by abusing them.
The amp, like I said large enough to play loud for you without distorting. I have an old 2x30W amp that is under rated, it will go quite loud if you don't ask it to make a lot of bass. For mids or higher it works great, but not that loud full range. Depends on how loud you like to play it?
I have run low wattage speakers loud on good clean power, and have seen people destroy high wattage speakers on little amps by abusing them.
The amp, like I said large enough to play loud for you without distorting. I have an old 2x30W amp that is under rated, it will go quite loud if you don't ask it to make a lot of bass. For mids or higher it works great, but not that loud full range. Depends on how loud you like to play it?
...I seem to know
I read about clipping on this forum,and what I realized is that it can make a lot of damage even a small amplifier is used,
so... I should use a bigger amp. which will deliver adequate power without clipping...
But how much bigger amp should be ?
I'd like to play it as loud as posible and with a lot of bass if it's possible
I read about clipping on this forum,and what I realized is that it can make a lot of damage even a small amplifier is used,
so... I should use a bigger amp. which will deliver adequate power without clipping...
But how much bigger amp should be ?
I'd like to play it as loud as posible and with a lot of bass if it's possible
What I have read is an amp puts out more power when it clips, and that does more damage than the clipping itself. If the ratings on the speakers are right, and that is questionable, you could make an amp that produces that wattage before clipping. If the amp makes that wattage RMS and no clipping that would be good. It would be pretty loud I am guessing.
For lots of bass I would highly recommend you go with some kind of sub. 6x9 will make mid bass, but it is difficult for them to really make big bass. You don't have to get fancy or expensive with subs as quality is not required nearly like with the higher frequency. It is more a matter of what will fit in the vehicle. Even $15 pyramid subs will make good bass unless you want to rattle houses you drive by.
For lots of bass I would highly recommend you go with some kind of sub. 6x9 will make mid bass, but it is difficult for them to really make big bass. You don't have to get fancy or expensive with subs as quality is not required nearly like with the higher frequency. It is more a matter of what will fit in the vehicle. Even $15 pyramid subs will make good bass unless you want to rattle houses you drive by.
k, let's supose that clipping is eliminated by using bigger amp.,
but .. how should I know when it's egnouh,
I mean can I somehow measure amp power ?
Besides,at your old 2x30W amp...I think that the problem may be with power supply.
Have you measured it's voltage?
When you ask it to make a lot of bass the power sup voltage is decreasing...,
and because of this clipping is taking place...
but .. how should I know when it's egnouh,
I mean can I somehow measure amp power ?
Besides,at your old 2x30W amp...I think that the problem may be with power supply.
Have you measured it's voltage?
When you ask it to make a lot of bass the power sup voltage is decreasing...,
and because of this clipping is taking place...
To build an amplifier for car use, it must be designed to operate from 12Vdc and maybe 13.8Vdc if the engine is kept running.mariusb007 said:
That requires either very low power or a double design exercise to build a high voltage power supply AND a power amplifier to match.
That project is certainly not for beginners.
Buy a power amp.
Most of the car amps I have checked, not that many, run a rail voltage of +/-30 to 50v. They are rated from 50x2 to 800 depending on ratings type and how they are built. The alpine I used is a 3518 that can be seen on the ampguts site. It is just not large enough to make lots of bass. I did use it once in a small truck to run 2 8" subs and it was respectable in that small space. On the high side of a crossover it will do much better, 2 ohm load and better yet. It is very clean and runs hot, but sounds great. Don't know the details, but also this amp will break up quickly at its limit. I like that a lot, then it plays clean all the time and when you go over the limit you know for sure that is too far. I don't like amps that distort a little, then a little more with more volume....you end up running high power with distortion before you realize, can't tell precisely when it starts to distort either.
well,
that means your alpine has a quality power supplay in fact amplifiers dat don't have a good p.supplay they distort a little, then a little more with more volume....
It also depend on what kind of music do you listen to....here are some topics
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/sonic3.htm
that means your alpine has a quality power supplay in fact amplifiers dat don't have a good p.supplay they distort a little, then a little more with more volume....
It also depend on what kind of music do you listen to....here are some topics
http://www.michael.mardis.com/sonic/sonic3.htm
Marius,
I notice that nobody has answered your last question yet.
White noise has equal energy at all frequencies. The noise you hear between FM stations is an example of "white noise".
Pink noise has equal energy in each octave of the audio spectrum.
Audio engineers use pink noise to set graphic equalizers to give an audio system a "flat" frequency response.
Larry
I notice that nobody has answered your last question yet.
White noise has equal energy at all frequencies. The noise you hear between FM stations is an example of "white noise".
Pink noise has equal energy in each octave of the audio spectrum.
Audio engineers use pink noise to set graphic equalizers to give an audio system a "flat" frequency response.
Larry
I listen to various types of music, mostly rock/alt of one kind or another is the loud kind for me. This amp I have now is a 5ch and the subs work nice. The high side will go into distortion slowly, and will if the subs are on or off, at the same place on the head unit. I have recommended wire size on it, almost seems like input overloading but have a 2V HU on it. I does not care if there is a mid bass hit, it just distorts all the time at that level. Other amps I consider better would drop into distortion with a bass hit. They would stay clean at that volume if you turned the crossover point higher. They have a very fine line between clean and lots of distortion.
Good reading on the class D amp by the way, thanks.
Good reading on the class D amp by the way, thanks.
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