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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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The biggest I can make my box for (2) 10" subs is 1.72 cubic ft. which is .86 cubic feet per sub. Is there a sub out there that works decent in this volume of air space? Thanks in advance!
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central Ohio
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http://cgi.ebay.com/2-JL-AUDIO-10W3v...QQcmdZViewItem
http://cgi.ebay.com/ALPINE-SWR-1022D...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/JL-AUDIO-10W6v2-...QQcmdZViewItem http://cgi.ebay.com/MTX-T9510-44-Thu...QQcmdZViewItem There are just a few examples, but these days, almost any 10" car audio sub will require less than 1 cubic foot. Even the 10W6 and the MTX 9500 don't need a lot of air space, but they have huge structures in the enclosure that have to be accounted for, and they need mucho mounting depth. If you mounting depth is a real issue, check out the DHMPRO on the Decware site below. It has a really unusual combination of specs. It is an 8 ohm sub, but two in parallel would give 4 ohms. It will handle 400 watts continuous, has a sensitivity of 97dB, and has a mounting depth of only 5". The overwhelming majority of subs have a sensitivity of 86-88dB and most that have a mounting depth of 5" or so will not handle 400 watts. http://www.decware.com/newsite/mainmenu.htm |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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Thanks for the info! I was looking at a few other subs too. Like a set of audiobahns, polk, and the new kenwoods. I wounder how the shallow tyep subs work?
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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I am really liking the Decware DHM108B sub! Noticed it has a smaller rubber suround than some woofers, which I need to ask this. With a large rubber or form surround will that woofer hit harder or what can be exspected from a woofer that has large surround aposed to one that has a small surround? Thanks in advance.
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central Ohio
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One edge of the surround is glued to the frame, the other to the cone. It has more to do with the excursion of the cone as to how "big" the surround actually is. There has to be enough material to let the cone move to its limit, if necessary, and also it helps stabilize the cone during use.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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yes, I am aware of this. I was woundering about the acuall exscursion. some subs move a bout 1" and the ones with the big thicker surround seem to move out like 2 or more inches.so does this make a sub hit harder? does this make since to ya, what I am trying to say. thanks.
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Central Ohio
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Excursion is only part of the equation. One must also look at sensitivity and power handling capability.
Are you familiar with SPL as it relates to a sub's sensitivity and power handling capability? |
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#8 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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Quote:
Go research......... |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
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69,
Sorry but I really know nothing much about all the equasions. I am a little new to this other than just going out and buying a already built box from the store. So will all of those subs you listed for me work in my box? 1.73 cu. ft. (.86 X 2) Also I am looking at few amps. one is the kicker 400.1 I think that is the model. it is a sub amp. Thanks and bear with my stupid Questions. Just trying to do something my self. Thanks. P.S. I was looking at the Dayton subs also (QT255-4 Quatro) |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2006
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What equations ?
There all specific parameters. When you understand them (really easy) you will be able to understand easily why one speaker is louder than another for the same power input. Should take you maybe an hour of reading to understand the very basics. Nothing is free, teach yourself and you will be amazed at what you can work out for yourself. If all you want is someone to tell you what to buy, then I suspect you will be disappointed with the results. Most subs will have a panel on their packaging that tells you what size box they recommend. If it doesn't, look elsewhere... |
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