We just got a 2007 R56 Mini Cooper. The stereo sounds worse than a $10 boom box.
Naturally space is tight amp wise but I would like something decent to drive a 3-way in the front and a pair of 6X9s in the back.
Also I would love to see what you guys recommend speaker wise. The fronts are 5.25s and 3.5s I would add a tweeter. The rears are 6x9s. I would like to turn the rears into as close to subs as possible as there's just not room to put a sub in this car. Its my wife's and she wants every bit of space. But I have to listen to the ratty stereo if we go in the car which is a blast to drive just hell to listen to....
Thanks in advance for all the advice.
Naturally space is tight amp wise but I would like something decent to drive a 3-way in the front and a pair of 6X9s in the back.
Also I would love to see what you guys recommend speaker wise. The fronts are 5.25s and 3.5s I would add a tweeter. The rears are 6x9s. I would like to turn the rears into as close to subs as possible as there's just not room to put a sub in this car. Its my wife's and she wants every bit of space. But I have to listen to the ratty stereo if we go in the car which is a blast to drive just hell to listen to....
Thanks in advance for all the advice.
Must be some kind of base model system. 
I've only seen four or five and they all had very nice multi component speaker setups. They sounded very nice as well, for such a small car. If it is a base system, try to find some eclipse components for the front and eclipse for the back as well. They are pretty efficient as well, so a small four channel would be fine. I remember seeing a few customers come in with these weird off brand super tiny/thin amps that I thought were IC based cheapos. They were actually bridgeable with nice crossovers and built in fans!
I can't remember the brand, but they were a bronz-ish color and only about 1 by 5 by 8 inches! The name reminded me of performance teknique, but that wasn't it. I'd really buy one of them just to take them apart and look.
Oh sorry, back to the subject. Yeah, I was surprised at the output of the above mentioned amps, in one application, we bridged it into two channels and ran two 10" subs in a customer's underseat box. I was very impressed. You could probably fit one under a seat in your cooper. I'm going to go look around and see if I can figure out the brand...
I've only seen four or five and they all had very nice multi component speaker setups. They sounded very nice as well, for such a small car. If it is a base system, try to find some eclipse components for the front and eclipse for the back as well. They are pretty efficient as well, so a small four channel would be fine. I remember seeing a few customers come in with these weird off brand super tiny/thin amps that I thought were IC based cheapos. They were actually bridgeable with nice crossovers and built in fans! I can't remember the brand, but they were a bronz-ish color and only about 1 by 5 by 8 inches! The name reminded me of performance teknique, but that wasn't it. I'd really buy one of them just to take them apart and look.Oh sorry, back to the subject. Yeah, I was surprised at the output of the above mentioned amps, in one application, we bridged it into two channels and ran two 10" subs in a customer's underseat box. I was very impressed. You could probably fit one under a seat in your cooper. I'm going to go look around and see if I can figure out the brand...
We didn't go for the upgraded system because for the extra money I would rather spend it on something far better. People with the upgraded system option complain bitterly about the sound. Maybe the amp is a bit better and they get a tweeter but the components seem to be about the same quality.
I would love to hear whatever you come up with. I'm hoping to do this intelligently and select some drivers from quality but maybe not well know companies. Most owners I read about go for Focal but I think they're really over priced. I could be wrong. I know I found a pair of Assassin subs for my car that blew away name brands costing 10x the price. That's what I'm hoping for .
I would love to hear whatever you come up with. I'm hoping to do this intelligently and select some drivers from quality but maybe not well know companies. Most owners I read about go for Focal but I think they're really over priced. I could be wrong. I know I found a pair of Assassin subs for my car that blew away name brands costing 10x the price. That's what I'm hoping for .
budget? price ranges are wide.
Focals are way over priced for what you get, in France they are nothing special.
if you got the bucks look into SEAS...Dynaudio...Image Dynamics isnt too expensive and good quality and can get relatively low...Morel for a more budget setup with good performance on the lower lines.
Try powering them with the power from the deck first, then upgrade to an amp if its not loud enough.
Youd be surprised how loud the power from the cd player can get...
Focals are way over priced for what you get, in France they are nothing special.
if you got the bucks look into SEAS...Dynaudio...Image Dynamics isnt too expensive and good quality and can get relatively low...Morel for a more budget setup with good performance on the lower lines.
Try powering them with the power from the deck first, then upgrade to an amp if its not loud enough.
Youd be surprised how loud the power from the cd player can get...
Gen1 New Mini's 2 levels of audio system took very few (in % terms) complaints....by Gen2 the customer knew better and re-developed the system themselves 
now it is inline with the full complement of vehicles in the group
Remember (and this forum back my point perfectly) it is very difficult to satisfy everyones tastes with acoustic reproduction and making it relative to all possible media tastes.
Check the sizes of the speakers again and the packagable size of component that 'could' be used in their place.
Note that the door cavity is larger than the rear 1/4 cavity.
...and if you wanted a light (in weight) amplifier setup then buy a few Si T-amps, a few DC/DC SMPS and a gain bias Elec.x-over...
I cannot comment personally on the Gen2 system, i do know it bares no relation to Gen1.
danny.
I'd be interested to know what route you decide to take.
now it is inline with the full complement of vehicles in the group Remember (and this forum back my point perfectly) it is very difficult to satisfy everyones tastes with acoustic reproduction and making it relative to all possible media tastes.
Check the sizes of the speakers again and the packagable size of component that 'could' be used in their place.
Note that the door cavity is larger than the rear 1/4 cavity.
...and if you wanted a light (in weight) amplifier setup then buy a few Si T-amps, a few DC/DC SMPS and a gain bias Elec.x-over...
I cannot comment personally on the Gen2 system, i do know it bares no relation to Gen1.
danny.
I'd be interested to know what route you decide to take.
As you know its not possible to change the head unit anymore. The gen 2 are integrated. I sure about the sizes as there's been a great many post about them but people here are right some have gotten a 6.5 in the 5.25 hole. Since it new I'd rather not do any cutting.
You just have to go onto NAM of Mini2 to hear what people think of the Gen 2 systems. Its pretty bad. Here's a link showing all the speakers and placements.
I really like T-amps as I've played with some DIY ones (Charlize) at home and got excellent results. It would be great to track some down. Do you know anyone who makes them for the car? I had asked the makers of the Charlize but I would need a pair that are mono and they only make the 15W stereo.
http://picasaweb.google.com/OutMotoring.com/HowToGen2SpeakerReplacement
You just have to go onto NAM of Mini2 to hear what people think of the Gen 2 systems. Its pretty bad. Here's a link showing all the speakers and placements.
I really like T-amps as I've played with some DIY ones (Charlize) at home and got excellent results. It would be great to track some down. Do you know anyone who makes them for the car? I had asked the makers of the Charlize but I would need a pair that are mono and they only make the 15W stereo.
http://picasaweb.google.com/OutMotoring.com/HowToGen2SpeakerReplacement
...if you select your components cleverly (i.e. sensitivity not 'aftermarket' power-handling figures) low wattage T-Class will be fine if you are audiophilic rather than a bass-head...
Hmmm its very sad about the new version of Mini not following on from its industry successes of the first Gen.
The Charlize is a little too sensative/precious IMO for a vehicle application, why not just use Si amps (modify the ones you'll use for the bass/lo-bass speakers of course) - its DIY but very easy and overall its very light-weight....
efficiency is way forward
Hmmm
its very sad about the new version of Mini not following on from its industry successes of the first Gen.The Charlize is a little too sensative/precious IMO for a vehicle application, why not just use Si amps (modify the ones you'll use for the bass/lo-bass speakers of course) - its DIY but very easy and overall its very light-weight....
efficiency is way forward
Sorry for the delay;
...lets say you have a 3-way setup in the front, and the 6x9's in the back (rear 1/4).
...this would require a total of 3 t-amps;
1x tw + mid (tw will have to have cap as pass filter/protection)
1x front bass
1x rear bass
3x DC/DC 12v SMPS, one for each.
1x eletronic x-over, pref. one which accepts speaker level.
locate the Front channel signal in the wiring, route this to the elec x-over (remember to always have the headunit fader on full front). Elec x-over splits the signal and provides line level to each amp. Each amp has its own gain relative to a consistent input (normally you'll find a gain for each ch on the elec x-over too).
Gen2 t-amps are selling now, slightly better packaged than before.
As for speakers, higher the efficiency the better, 90+, and better if they're all the same load (easier to balance with the variable input and the convoluted path the signal makes).
fun project, clear reproduction, very light-weight and very low power draw
...lets say you have a 3-way setup in the front, and the 6x9's in the back (rear 1/4).
...this would require a total of 3 t-amps;
1x tw + mid (tw will have to have cap as pass filter/protection)
1x front bass
1x rear bass
3x DC/DC 12v SMPS, one for each.
1x eletronic x-over, pref. one which accepts speaker level.
locate the Front channel signal in the wiring, route this to the elec x-over (remember to always have the headunit fader on full front). Elec x-over splits the signal and provides line level to each amp. Each amp has its own gain relative to a consistent input (normally you'll find a gain for each ch on the elec x-over too).
Gen2 t-amps are selling now, slightly better packaged than before.
As for speakers, higher the efficiency the better, 90+, and better if they're all the same load (easier to balance with the variable input and the convoluted path the signal makes).
fun project, clear reproduction, very light-weight and very low power draw
Sounds brilliant. Where can I find suitable 2nd gen T-amps? Also the electronic x-overs? Kits are fine too no problem. I wondered how the line level was going to be set. Since its already a 12V system why do I need DC-DC unless its a strict regulated supply?
I just tried a switching ps on my Charlize and it made an incredible difference over a very nice computer grade ac-dc converter.
Not to be greedy with your knowlege but any placed to pick up a suitable case to get all this into?
I just tried a switching ps on my Charlize and it made an incredible difference over a very nice computer grade ac-dc converter.
Not to be greedy with your knowlege but any placed to pick up a suitable case to get all this into?
Partsexpress has the Gen2
Better to be safe than sorry with the SMPS to the amps, if you did hit a spike at 14v+ then you may fry an amp.
You'll find lots of elec. x-overs at Partsexpress also (wish we had one in the UK )......i like AudiControl LC6 personally.
To be honest i wouldn't case it all, i'd leave it somewhat distributed that way its easier to hide away (in the small spaces that BMW have left for you in the car, and there are not many!).
BTW once the LC6 is set there is no need to see it anymore either, no flashing lights, nothing to see on it really....
Njoy,
danny.
Better to be safe than sorry with the SMPS to the amps, if you did hit a spike at 14v+ then you may fry an amp.
You'll find lots of elec. x-overs at Partsexpress also (wish we had one in the UK
)......i like AudiControl LC6 personally.To be honest i wouldn't case it all, i'd leave it somewhat distributed that way its easier to hide away (in the small spaces that BMW have left for you in the car, and there are not many!).
BTW once the LC6 is set there is no need to see it anymore either, no flashing lights, nothing to see on it really....
Njoy,
danny.
Thanks Danny! I'll start researching now.
I see this is the cheapest. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-958
I was hoping I could find some units without the case although this one claims a regulated supply. 9 clean watts. That requires some very efficient speakers for sure.
I was lusting over the Butler tube mobile amps last night. Too bad no one makes a kit...
I see this is the cheapest. http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=300-958
I was hoping I could find some units without the case although this one claims a regulated supply. 9 clean watts. That requires some very efficient speakers for sure.
I was lusting over the Butler tube mobile amps last night. Too bad no one makes a kit...
Narrowing it down
After talking to a number of suppliers I have some suggestions. It seems Madisound has better drivers and the Part Express people weren't very helpful. If I'm missing something in their catelog I appreciate suggestions.
Madisound recommended this for a tweeter : http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8177
They said to forget about dreaming of a subwoofer in place of the 6x9 and use both of these full range for front and rear. I would really like to get bass fill but I understand their point: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=78
The only other option I see is instead of the tweeter is to get a mid/tweeter like this one from Parts Express: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=267-658
If I just do the two 6.5 (hoping they'll fit) and the tweeter I would just bi-amp. I'm alittle concerned with setting line level and getting the proper curve. If I go with Madisound I would just use some passive crossovers. Not sure if the JL Audio Cleansweep is necessary.
Thoughts?
After talking to a number of suppliers I have some suggestions. It seems Madisound has better drivers and the Part Express people weren't very helpful. If I'm missing something in their catelog I appreciate suggestions.
Madisound recommended this for a tweeter : http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=8177
They said to forget about dreaming of a subwoofer in place of the 6x9 and use both of these full range for front and rear. I would really like to get bass fill but I understand their point: http://www.madisound.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=78
The only other option I see is instead of the tweeter is to get a mid/tweeter like this one from Parts Express: http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=267-658
If I just do the two 6.5 (hoping they'll fit) and the tweeter I would just bi-amp. I'm alittle concerned with setting line level and getting the proper curve. If I go with Madisound I would just use some passive crossovers. Not sure if the JL Audio Cleansweep is necessary.
Thoughts?
I would go with a good set of two way components up front or make your own set with speakers from madisound or parts express. the extra mid might complicate things like your crossover settings.
why can't you use 6x9 subs in the rear? i know that cdt makes a nice set of 6x9 subs and i got a pair once on ebay for $100. also parts express has 2 different tang band 6x9 subs that look promising. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=49&ObjectGroup_ID=844
i wouldn't put mids or highs in the back of such a small cab anyways as it will draw your ears away from the front soundstage and directly to the rear. just drop in those 6x9 subs and cross them over below 100hz. you may want to dynamat some of the panels front and back to minimize stray rattles.
why can't you use 6x9 subs in the rear? i know that cdt makes a nice set of 6x9 subs and i got a pair once on ebay for $100. also parts express has 2 different tang band 6x9 subs that look promising. http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?webpage_id=3&CAT_ID=49&ObjectGroup_ID=844
i wouldn't put mids or highs in the back of such a small cab anyways as it will draw your ears away from the front soundstage and directly to the rear. just drop in those 6x9 subs and cross them over below 100hz. you may want to dynamat some of the panels front and back to minimize stray rattles.
I called tech at Parts Express and they didn't even know they had 6x9 subs. When I told him they have two - MA audio and Tang he was surprised. He didn't know if they would work. The only thing about the Tangs is I wish it was something other than a paper cone. In a infinite baffle could they be x-over enough to go low? I could also put one of the "hats" on them. The foam baffles they sell if they have one that will fit the 6x9
Have you used and heard those subs? I was figuring on simple passive x-overs. So that's no problem. I have some sound proofing left over from my car that should work well. I need to sound proof the floors too. Have to figure out how to get the carpets up.
I didn't plan on anything back there but low frequencies. I was surprised MS recommended it. They said the smallest sub would be a 8" which would be cutting and my wife would faint.
Have you used and heard those subs? I was figuring on simple passive x-overs. So that's no problem. I have some sound proofing left over from my car that should work well. I need to sound proof the floors too. Have to figure out how to get the carpets up.
I didn't plan on anything back there but low frequencies. I was surprised MS recommended it. They said the smallest sub would be a 8" which would be cutting and my wife would faint.
you have to remember that they want to sell you more stuff no matter what it is.
these tang bands seem to be a good option. but i have not heard them myself.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...837&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=8102877#reviews
they seem to be free-air capable. they are 8-ohms but you could mono-bridge them or just run them stereo and feed them more power from a decent small class-d amp with a built in sub x-over that you could hide under the seat or something. a subsonic filter to cut out 25-35hz and below would be nice too. passive sub x-overs can get large fast and the parts can be expensive at times.
these look like they have some potential as well but no reviews yet and they cost way more. 4 ohms, 3" voice coil, low profile, neo magnet, wow! not very efficient though at 88db.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-864
the cdt's on ebay are nice too. i have them and i like them!
these tang bands seem to be a good option. but i have not heard them myself.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...837&vReviewShow=1&vReviewRand=8102877#reviews
they seem to be free-air capable. they are 8-ohms but you could mono-bridge them or just run them stereo and feed them more power from a decent small class-d amp with a built in sub x-over that you could hide under the seat or something. a subsonic filter to cut out 25-35hz and below would be nice too. passive sub x-overs can get large fast and the parts can be expensive at times.
these look like they have some potential as well but no reviews yet and they cost way more. 4 ohms, 3" voice coil, low profile, neo magnet, wow! not very efficient though at 88db.
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?&Partnumber=264-864
the cdt's on ebay are nice too. i have them and i like them!
oh i don't think you would want to put a foam baffle on any speakers you want to use for subs. it will be way to little air space. free air should be fine as long as you have a good seal in the surrounding area and the panels are dampened.
the paper cone should be ok. sometimes paper cones give you a more natural sound of bass reproduction. as long as they are not direcly exposed to the sun or moisture the should pose no problems.
the 4ohm tang band neo sub has a poly cone if you are worried about it.
the paper cone should be ok. sometimes paper cones give you a more natural sound of bass reproduction. as long as they are not direcly exposed to the sun or moisture the should pose no problems.
the 4ohm tang band neo sub has a poly cone if you are worried about it.
no shop at this time. i'm a former installer with 100's of installs under my belt and a former Marine Corp. aviation electronics tech.
i'm now working in carlsbad as an electronics engineering tech but i do installs on the side as time permits. i'm currently honing my novice skills at amplifier repair in the hopes of making some money in the future. thanks to this forum and Perry Babin's tutorial i'm getting pretty good at it.
a class-D amp is what you would want in a small package to power the subs. there are other small amps with good power as well. soundstream made one called "angina" that was pretty cool and x-tant had the "1.1" i think it was called, and who could forget the rockford punch 45 or 75. there is also the new alpine "pdx" amps that are small and suposedly very good.
i used the cdt 6x9's in my BMW 328i in the stock locations for a while with decent results. i just needed more power than the factory amp could provide. i'm switching over to 1 12" free-air sub flush mounted on a 1.5" thick mdf baffle board behind the back seats firing through the ski pass with an aftermarket amp that i have not decided on yet. maybe A/D/S or old school X-tant?
i'm now working in carlsbad as an electronics engineering tech but i do installs on the side as time permits. i'm currently honing my novice skills at amplifier repair in the hopes of making some money in the future. thanks to this forum and Perry Babin's tutorial i'm getting pretty good at it.
a class-D amp is what you would want in a small package to power the subs. there are other small amps with good power as well. soundstream made one called "angina" that was pretty cool and x-tant had the "1.1" i think it was called, and who could forget the rockford punch 45 or 75. there is also the new alpine "pdx" amps that are small and suposedly very good.
i used the cdt 6x9's in my BMW 328i in the stock locations for a while with decent results. i just needed more power than the factory amp could provide. i'm switching over to 1 12" free-air sub flush mounted on a 1.5" thick mdf baffle board behind the back seats firing through the ski pass with an aftermarket amp that i have not decided on yet. maybe A/D/S or old school X-tant?
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