Tuning a stereo system

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First check your wiring is solid, power and signal lines. Check that you have good grounds for your headunit and amplifiers, check the grounds under the hood as well. I also am suspect of the headunit, maybe try adding a power line filter before the headunit.
 
reground everything properly...

and add a ground wire to the chassis of the cd player and ground it also...

if your using rca jacks with metal heads they may be picking up noise....or if you are using rca jacks with REALLY thin insulation get rid of them for something with a bit thicker insulation.

turning down the gain will also help alleviate some of the noise.
 
sorry, id have to disagree with you on this PPI...

for the rca jacks with metal heads (not metal looking plastic )with screw on barrels, will act like one big RF antennae.

you basically have an exposed ground on the rca line, anything that touches it can induce noise, any radiating noise travelling through the chassis can be picked up by the metal head if close enough.

usually there is a tube of clear plastic that goes over the internals before screwing them together, to prvent the ground touching the metal head...many times this plastic tube is discarded when assembled....or moves

the ones with metal heads are also notorious for broken ground terminals inside....metal headed jacks are not designed for car use and are not as immune to vibration as regular plastic heads which are molded and secures the wire's solder points.

just for clarification im not talking about the actual wire , im talking about the actual jack head.
 
I am talking about the jack head as well. The point of having the metal head is to keep the ground path complete from end to end. You can use the plastic molded type which are easier to manufacture with automated equipment, but the ground shield will stop a few millimeters short of the actual outer terminal and the center lead is exposed (like an antenna) The only way a metal jack will cause a problem is if it is too long and causes fit issues, or if you are irresponsible and don't insulate all of your positive voltage wires. There shouldn't be any bare wires floating around behind your radio either way. If there are, you have more important issues to deal with rather than worrying about the differences between molded and metal rca ends. If you are that worried that you can't keep your other wires from touching the rca barrels.. wrap some tape around them. Either way, the barrels are at the same ground level as the deck 99% of the time so what is the point?
 
Clipped said:
in the past ive always had problems with the radio shack type gold plated heads with hatches crossed by a lathe.

never had problems with the aluminium ones, just the heavy brass/gold heads.


i have to agree with ppia600. some of the best car audio rca cables ever made had metal (not molded) ends on them. i'm sure part of it had to do with sheilding. i usually tape mine up behind the head unit anyways but not on the amp side unless it was a stealth install not to be seen. i think alot of it has to do with install technique and proper system grounding and gain structure as well. radio shack wires can work on a budget system but if you are at all in to fine audio for the long term get something a bit more solid. there is nothing wrong with molded ends but some of them seem to be more budget minded that hi sonic performance related.:eek:
 
Not saying they are good, but I have used a lot of cheap RCAs with plastic ends until the insulation was pulling out of the plastic end....and never had a noise issue related to the RCAs unless they were actually pinched hard/cut/obviously damaged. Equipment on the other hand, like HUs and xovers do make noise as well as listed bad grounds and all. I would suggest you unhook your HU, and go right down the line to each amp to help see what is making the noise if you have not. Sometimes it is just cheap equipment, but often you can ground it well and use filters to get it out anyway. Or it might be the car.
 
pityocamptes said:
Its a jensen HU with preamp outs, one pyramid 300 watt amp for tweets and mids (pyramid bullet tweet, and power acoustic mids), and lanzar 1200 watt amp with 2 - 12" visoniks.

You might have a problem silencing that Pyramid amp regardless of what you do. Not taking a dig at you but at your amp choice. Notoriously bad unit.
 
Clipped said:
in the past ive always had problems with the radio shack type gold plated heads with hatches crossed by a lathe.

never had problems with the aluminium ones, just the heavy brass/gold heads.

That is odd first you say that metal plugs are no good then you say that the aluminium ones are good.

You do know that aluminium is a metal? Don't you??????

I personally have used the gold plated brass ones, the real heavy ones and never had a problem with them. The clear plastic tube is used to keep the ground and the signal wire separated and yes they need to be there....


I would also ditch the pyramid as well......
 
i wasnt thinking about the aluminium heads at the time.

just the gold ones...then remembered...

to further confuse you or to instigate you even further....the only time i had noise problems with the gold heads were behind the headunit...not at the amps...

i had a nissan bluebird once where if you rubbed your hand down the door jamb on the 'A 'pillar, you could actually feel current in the metal...

i dont know what the hell this is, but has been the cause of noise in a few cars ive installed...get this type of current/phenomena passing behind the headunit and it will induce noise...especially in those brass heads...

kinda like when you power an amp with a battery charger and rub the heatsink.
 
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