When is 0 guage wire actually required?

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junglejuice said:
Car audio cable is expensive, but welding cable is relatively cheap so why not buy some welding cable it is available in a variety of sizes 25mm (4ga), 35mm (2ga), 50mm (1ga), 70mm (0ga), these comparative sizes are only a rough guide but it is a very worth while option and saves a lot of cash.....

And please no stupid comments like I have heard in the past about welding cable being "Resistive" and therefore unsuitable which is total crap.....

I used 2awg welding cable in my setup, works fine.

Although after using Kicker's Hyperflex 1/0, I love that stuff :) Really, really, really flexible. Makes it a heck of a lot easier when you're stuffing it in tight places.

Just an observation, the amount of talk about "stiffening" capacitors on this forum worries me...:apathic:
 
tc-60guy said:
Greetings, If your hookup wires are heavier than your battery cables, it's overkill! Con ed guage wires are like braided fuel lines. They look cool under the hood and thats about it!

I've always liked upgrading the alternator positive, engine grounds and battery grounds with whatever gauge I'm running for the amps, just to remove that as a weak link. And if there's a high output alt going in, it's a no-brainer...
 
tc-60guy said:
Greetings, If your hookup wires are heavier than your battery cables, it's overkill! Con ed guage wires are like braided fuel lines. They look cool under the hood and thats about it!


Why would that be? Battery cables are generally less than a metre long and the cables going to the boot are generally around 5 metres long so therefore the longer the cable the bigger it needs to be.
Plus the factory fitted cables are almost always too small as well if you look at the amount of current being passed through it, so that is why a lot of starter motors are rated to start the car with around 9v which allows for the voltage drop of the cable and the battery itself....
 
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