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Old 17th October 2007, 07:01 PM   #11
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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I can't deal with all that law calculations stuff...Just wish someone could tell you what gauge wire you need for how many watts the amp puts out...Like you use this gauge for 100-200watt amps, and so on. This stuff is too confusing
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Old 17th October 2007, 07:42 PM   #12
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http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf
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Old 17th October 2007, 08:00 PM   #13
Flyin11 is offline Flyin11  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by Perry Babin
http://www.bcae1.com/images/swfs/sys...nassistant.swf
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Didn't notice that...My bad I thought it was just like a diagram, nothing you could input stuff into...
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Old 18th October 2007, 01:34 AM   #14
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Hmmm.

If 150amps are drawn from a 90A-H car battery, that would yeild 90A-H / 150A x 60MINUTES, or 36 minutes....
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Old 18th October 2007, 01:38 PM   #15
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Thanks for all your replies.

Quote:
With <1k watts in a car or "regular" truck, a stiffening cap and 8 Ga. is plenty.
If a capacitor smooths the current to make it more regular, as Perrys site says, it cannot provide additional current so therefore the 1/2v drop is probably more of an accurate depiction of what wire is needed.

Quote:
A small set of caps at the head unit also makes a HUGE difference. Most new HU's are not passive and are "high powered" so caps there make a difference even if your not using the internal power.
Even for a stock head unit?
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Old 18th October 2007, 02:44 PM   #16
troystg is online now troystg  United States
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Quote:
Originally posted by groover1234
Thanks for all your replies.



If a capacitor smooths the current to make it more regular, as Perrys site says, it cannot provide additional current so therefore the 1/2v drop is probably more of an accurate depiction of what wire is needed.



Even for a stock head unit?

10-15 ft. of 8 ga. wire can support 50 amps continuous. If you have a stiffening cap in the rear "smoothing" the current flow and are drawing more than 50 amps CONTINUOUS then there is either a short in the system or you will be deaf soon enough that this is a moot point.


Never kept a stock unit long enough to try. Although I would expect it would help.
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Old 19th October 2007, 01:38 AM   #17
ppia600 is offline ppia600  United States
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This thread is hilarious. I was wondering how long it would be before the magic caps made their appearance. lols
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Old 19th October 2007, 03:00 AM   #18
troystg is online now troystg  United States
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Since you and Perry are also both here in Lousy anna maybe we can meet for a trial one day.

My only hesitation on that is now days I use the cap as the distribution point for my amps so taking it out of the circuit would not be easy.

Maybe I can rig something up...
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Old 20th October 2007, 06:20 AM   #19
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all points considered, I'm putting a second battery in. It's not that much more expensive than a capacitor and I can get a kit that ensures I do not drain my primary battery when listening with the car switched off.

I drill a hole in the boot and run a cable zip tied to the brake line and up into the primary battery. The kit comes with a clean grommet to keep it watertight and aesthetically pleasing.

Because I'm only running less than 1 metre from the secondary battery to the amplifier, I am using 4 guage wire. I doubt much resistance will occur within the short distance and 0 guage wire is so pricey.

From the opinions expressed here plus things I've read elsewhere it appears that the capacitor may not be the solution for my listening requirements. However, going down the battery path means I still have the opportunity to add a capacitor if the need arises in the future, but with much less hassle.

Thanks everyone for your input.

~groover
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Old 20th October 2007, 08:52 AM   #20
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Car audio cable is expensive, but welding cable is relatively cheap so why not buy some welding cable it is available in a variety of sizes 25mm (4ga), 35mm (2ga), 50mm (1ga), 70mm (0ga), these comparative sizes are only a rough guide but it is a very worth while option and saves a lot of cash.....

And please no stupid comments like I have heard in the past about welding cable being "Resistive" and therefore unsuitable which is total crap.....
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